2021 Xpro Titan DLX

[tknj99]

Update: fixed the hard start and with the need for high idle (2k)..
The stock PZ30 pilot jet at 37 is too small and causing idle to be too lean. The remedy was for me to turn the a/f screw back out another 2 turns.. she now starts right up and can idle at or below 1500 with no issues..

I then decided to update the main to 115 as i was noticing a bog at 3/4 to full throttle..

I also removed the exhaust muffler tip.. gained some throatiness to the sound and between that and the 115 main, she is now running like a raped ape! Very happy

Got my VA inspection today and have an appt at DMV on Thursday to title/register. I will provide an update on that afterwards.

[JerryHawk250]

A 40 pilot should be the right size.

[tknj99]

Update: went to DMV today with MSO, Bill of Sale and form VSA130 in hand.. VSA130 is an offroad conversion to on-road form that Plump Kibbles needed to fill out and have sent to Richmond and then wait 3 weeks for the plate.. Luckily he paved the way for me and future Titan DLX owners here in VA as it was not required and the clerk was able to pull it up in the system with the make/model provided (Koolcnchet/XB88-250)
I was in and out in 15 minutes with new plate in hand.. tax and 2-year registration a cool $130.. great success!

[Plump Kibbles]

Hey - Deja vu!

I STILL need to cut'n'gut my stock pipe, but I did pick up the catless pipe on Orion Powersports site. I got the one for the RXB230 - will need an adapter to add about 3in. to attach the muffler. VERY aggressive without the muffler plug, definitely added some ponies too. I don't have a dyno, but I can say it feels like I added at least 5+HP to the mix. The CDI helps I think with starts too - coil and plug wire are way better than stock, hotter, instant power difference felt. The CDI does remove the REV and advances the timing a tad; not sure how much degree but does now feel like something is pulling me when I'm in a lower RPM and give it some throttle. Much better lower end torque curve feels like. I have another CDI that's a 'racing' type, not sure if that is any different. Thinking about that timing key - may have to do that.

I have been pleasantly surprised with my XPro since I got it all figured out. Little power mods here and there - thinking about that bore kit... still want a sixth gear, though lol

If we can get it all coordinated - we need to hit some of the MABDR and get some footage! I have a multi-cam setup on my helmet so I can get front / rear; should be some good shots. But, glad I paved the way for your registration! Wish mine was as easy - MY dmv told me that my bike and paperwork was all fake!! Got it done though.

I'll get some pics of my project and post 'em up. Btw - if you haven't gotten a skid plate, the Cycra 'full armor' plate for the YZ250 is an exact fit! It is a polymer plate though, not metal - about 60 bucks I think, maybe cheaper now. Has saved me a few times already!!

[severely]

I'm hearing you on the new CDI. Would you have a link or website to it? Are your comments about horsepower with the stock head pipe and the baffle removed from the muffler? Or with the unresricted head pipe? I'm really learning a lot from your build. Thanks.

[Plump Kibbles]

Originally Posted by severely

I'm hearing you on the new CDI. Would you have a link or website to it? Are your comments about horsepower with the stock head pipe and the baffle removed from the muffler? Or with the unresricted head pipe? I'm really learning a lot from your build. Thanks.

At first, I installed the blue 'racing CDI': https://www.amazon.com/Glixal-ATMT1-...5046976&sr=8-5

With that one, I did notice a little pickup with the stock pipe and baffle out on the muffler. The baffle is just a decibel reducer, sorta. But does add a few MPH when taken out - like 2.. but hey, more!

Now - without the catalytic converter and EGR / SAI, the fuel rate is MUCH more rich and all the exhaust gasses are exiting the pipe. The EGR / SAI crap pushes dirty air back through your intake. But, with the stock catted muffler I was on a 120 main jet - switched pipes and was waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too rich. The orange CDI just fits better and matches the color so, but between the orange and blue CDI's I can't tell a difference.

The exhaust pipe on this bike is kinda strange - very weird shape, and all one piece.. no middle pipe and doesn't bolt to the frame in the middle - just on the exhaust port engine side and the muffler... that's it!! The stoneman exhaust and the Power Core exhausts won't fit this bike - I have a power core 2 full exhaust just lying around unused. Didn't feel like trying to bend it either.

It's not in the pics, but where the shift lever is engine side, the pipe was rubbing against it. I took the pipe off, saw where the lever was rubbing the pipe, took it out in the shop, placed a piece of wood under the opposite side of the shift lever marks, and beat the s#!* out of it with a hammer Now there's PLENTY of room for the shift lever to move! Haha.. I think I can list that under 'custom build' when reselling - right? The CDI also has an effect with the aftermarket plug coil too - big, big spark lol I am also running the NGK Iridium DRP8EiX-9 plug; stock is NGK D8EA, too! Didn't know that before buying. But does seem to be better than stock.

Thanks though, man! Though, I may have to keep up with tknj99 on the internal mods! I haven't performed any internal upgrades yet. I really want to try that 280cc big bore kit though - see what this thing can do with more powa!!

[GlennR]

Originally Posted by Plump Kibbles

At first, I installed the blue 'racing CDI': https://www.amazon.com/Glixal-ATMT1-...5046976&sr=8-5

With that one, I did notice a little pickup with the stock pipe and baffle out on the muffler. The baffle is just a decibel reducer, sorta. But does add a few MPH when taken out - like 2.. but hey, more!

Now - without the catalytic converter and EGR / SAI, the fuel rate is MUCH more rich and all the exhaust gasses are exiting the pipe. The EGR / SAI crap pushes dirty air back through your intake. But, with the stock catted muffler I was on a 120 main jet - switched pipes and was waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too rich. The orange CDI just fits better and matches the color so, but between the orange and blue CDI's I can't tell a difference.

The exhaust pipe on this bike is kinda strange - very weird shape, and all one piece.. no middle pipe and doesn't bolt to the frame in the middle - just on the exhaust port engine side and the muffler... that's it!! The stoneman exhaust and the Power Core exhausts won't fit this bike - I have a power core 2 full exhaust just lying around unused. Didn't feel like trying to bend it either.

It's not in the pics, but where the shift lever is engine side, the pipe was rubbing against it. I took the pipe off, saw where the lever was rubbing the pipe, took it out in the shop, placed a piece of wood under the opposite side of the shift lever marks, and beat the s#!* out of it with a hammer Now there's PLENTY of room for the shift lever to move! Haha.. I think I can list that under 'custom build' when reselling - right? The CDI also has an effect with the aftermarket plug coil too - big, big spark lol I am also running the NGK Iridium DRP8EiX-9 plug; stock is NGK D8EA, too! Didn't know that before buying. But does seem to be better than stock.

Thanks though, man! Though, I may have to keep up with tknj99 on the internal mods! I haven't performed any internal upgrades yet. I really want to try that 280cc big bore kit though - see what this thing can do with more powa!!

Is there really a 280cc big bore kit available for this engine? If so, that seems like the first mod to make.

My Kayo K6 uses KTM plastics, seat, and gas tank. I installed a 4.1 gallon Acerbis tank. That might fit your bike too. (btw, I filled the tank with very hot water and used a ratchet strap to squeeze it down, making it quite a bit narrower.)

I recently ordered a Seat Concepts seat to replace the 2x4" hard stock seat. The wait was about 3 months because of C-19, but I just received the tracking info yesterday so it's finally on the way. Now I'll be able to use up the 4.1 gallons, instead of my butt crying after the 1st hour.

If these bikes use the KTM shaped seat pan the Seat Concepts swap is a great upgrade. Have any of you guys checked to see if any KTM or other big brand parts fit these bikes? If so, it'll open up a nice assortment of quality upgrades. (Some might not be an exact fit, but a trim or tweak here or there might make them work.)

[tknj99]

This is the CDI we both have on our bikes...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z8R92YT...roduct_details

Plump Kibbles bought the full kit here (https://www.amazon.com/Hity-Motor-Pe...N%2CB07R7HXYYV)
while i bought the stripped down version previously linked, but same CDI in both

He is running his on a bike with the stock header replaced with a catless pipe that Orion sells that will work on the Titan (same bike overall)

Im running the CDI on an otherwise stock bike and between tuning the carb properly and adding this, i definitely feel an increase in power.. ofcourse any hp number i state would just be subjective without a dyno measurement, but i think its definitely worth the $10..

I also read that the cdi box and 4-degree timing key play very well together and are a "must".. i hope to purchase and install that in the near future as well as have my stock cat removed.. with the current gearing and setup, the bike feels great and accelerates pretty quick, ofcourse, you need to bang the gears fairly quickly as well

[severely]

Originally Posted by tknj99

This is the CDI we both have on our bikes...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z8R92YT...roduct_details

Plump Kibbles bought the full kit here (https://www.amazon.com/Hity-Motor-Pe...N%2CB07R7HXYYV)
while i bought the stripped down version previously linked, but same CDI in both

He is running his on a bike with the stock header replaced with a catless pipe that Orion sells that will work on the Titan (same bike overall)

Im running the CDI on an otherwise stock bike and between tuning the carb properly and adding this, i definitely feel an increase in power.. ofcourse any hp number i state would just be subjective without a dyno measurement, but i think its definitely worth the $10..

I also read that the cdi box and 4-degree timing key play very well together and are a "must".. i hope to purchase and install that in the near future as well as have my stock cat removed.. with the current gearing and setup, the bike feels great and accelerates pretty quick, ofcourse, you need to bang the gears fairly quickly as well

WOW, Thanks for the detailed replies to you and Plump Kibbles. Between the two of you I now have a great plan upon delivery. The CDI/coil setup and carb modifications {40 pilot, 115 main} will be on all the bikes before I even start them. I'll look at the other mods as necessary. One question, where is the boost bottle connected on the intake?

[tknj99]

Originally Posted by severely

WOW, Thanks for the detailed replies to you and Plump Kibbles. Between the two of you I now have a great plan upon delivery. The CDI/coil setup and carb modifications {40 pilot, 115 main} will be on all the bikes before I even start them. I'll look at the other mods as necessary. One question, where is the boost bottle connected on the intake?

You will want to remove the EGR plumbing and then can use a thin metal bracket and cut and drill to block off the port on the side of the engine head. After you do that you will find that the intake manifold has a rubber hose line running to it.. this will be removed when you remove the EGR plumbing leaving an exposed port. I cut a short section of rubber line and then used a tire cap to cap that line.. basically that port sucks in clean air and is used by the EGR.
That port is what you will connect the boost bottle line to should you purchase one.

[Plump Kibbles]

Originally Posted by tknj99

You will want to remove the EGR plumbing and then can use a thin metal bracket and cut....

What he said Got to it before me! Haha

The only thing to keep in mind about that EGR stuff - when you remove it and keep the stock catalytic converter pipe, there is a chance that the CAT will become clogged with time. I haven't had that happen to me luckily - but have read that could happen. If you do go with the boost bottle, every 150mi I uncap one side and drain the gas back into the tank. I don't have as much going into the bottle anymore - I had to run way rich with the stock pipe to get the results I wanted; hopefully not ruining the internals in the process! I can't remember the exact site I got the blocker plate from - Ohio motorcycle or something of that nature - 8 bucks with hardware and a new gasket. Also, my EGR tubing that was routed above the engine was pinched and wouldn't start, and if it did wouldn't stay running long at all. I too had the breather tube debacle on the gas cap, probably common for these!

Note on the CDI's: The adjustable ones won't work with this bike. I was planning to check one out for myself and noticed most all of the adjustable ones are DC - this bike is AC, if I'm not mistaken.. and use all six pins. Nothing will happen if you plug the wrong one up though, just wont start. The orange CDI's are rated the best on every outlet where you can get them. The blue metal one I have too, just bulky-ish and awkward to install.

So I take it there's yet another X-Pro coming soon?! Good on ya, mate! You won't be disappointed!!

[Plump Kibbles]

Originally Posted by severely

... One question, where is the boost bottle connected on the intake?

No problem, man!

On the 10th pic down, you can see the hose going to the intake manifold inlet from the EGR setup on the 45ish degree bend. I just stuck it above the carb and back around to the bottle. Probably could have used something other than a 3/8 fuel line lol but didn't have anything else.

By the way - removing that EGR / SAI crap takes off about 5lbs of dead weight! Not to mention opens up the engine space - two in one kinda mod

I'm wondering if this would work... I watched a video of someone that dremeled out the mount brackets on the timing sensor to move it slightly 'before' where it normally sits and advances the timing. Not sure how much, but did work..

[tknj99]

Originally Posted by Plump Kibbles

I'm wondering if this would work... I watched a video of someone that dremeled out the mount brackets on the timing sensor to move it slightly 'before' where it normally sits and advances the timing. Not sure how much, but did work..

Hmm, that sounds interesting but may be more risky than its worth especially since you'd need to get the flywheel off to do that, and by then youre at the home-stretch and the $22 flywheel key seems like the safest play.

I'm foaming at the mouth to do that flywheel key mod especially since its my one big failure on the Brozz that i posted my trials and tribulations extensively about in the past.. sorta like having a second chance now at the one that got away


Some fun reading if you want on the 4 degree timing key.. and also a lesson in how not to do it:

http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...t=brozz+timing

[China Rider 27]

CB strong, ride hard!

[Plump Kibbles]

Alright! Once I figured out, again, how to get the pics to show up lol there she be!

I do have the 20 dollar bark busters that are full metal, except obviously the black parts, but do work very well; and hold up very well! I had it fall over on the trailer before registration - smacked pretty hard and absolutely no damages. Definitely saved the levers!

The front sprocket cover is thanks to AliExpress and all of 12 dollars I think? They offer all the colors for the Orion RXB and the XPro Zongshen 230cc - I would recommend the ABS sprocket cover especially if you're converting to 520 chain - the stock cover is too tight and the chain smacks the cover... so, pretty easy fix! And now there is no contact between the chain or any part of the cover.

GPS - figured that'd be neat to include, maybe. Small water / shock proof deal from Fod Sports. I got the Windows mobile version - yes there are Android ones, but the MS one boots way faster.. that matters to me, but maybe not someone else lol absolutely a handy device and I use it to watch my speed too. 5V adapter is included and all mounting stuff.

Booooooost bottle! 20 bucks on Amazon, hooks into the EGR / SAI inlet on the intake - acts like a spring on the intake pressure, helps out immensely on hills and strenuous torque demands. Little 'ol Yamaha trick from back in the day No, not only for two stroke!!

Muffler - So as you can see, there's a reducer slip joint or lap joint I think they're called, 52mm to 50mm. The new pipe is just barely short around 3in from the muffler slip on. The Orion pipe also isn't a 50mm or 52mm hookup; slightly smaller I think around 48mm.. Anyway, I had to shim the gap on the pipe side to the joint, muffler fit perfect - loctited the bolts / nuts and got everything as tight as I could - no leaks! I know, I was surprised too

LED headlight - I think was under 20 bucks on Amazon. For the XPro I would highly suggest clipping the small running light under the main headlight (weird setup..) and keep the wires separated and out of the way. The reason - when switching to LED, the electrical gets confused with the two bulbs one being LED and one incandescent. This causes the LED bulb to be stuck in high or low beam and then usually fries the switch on the bulb itself - went through two LED's before figuring that one out! H4 headlights too, cheapies.

Standard CRF250L tail tidy kit, 28 bucks eBay - comes with the lights and all hardware. The rear light / tag light is integrated on this bike - kinda hate that, but gotta deal with it! This makes it a little better at least, again - all LED.

Pro Taper grips - not as 'cushionie' as the grip puppies I bet. The bike came with some foam / rubber grip covers, but RIPPED when I was putting them on lol.. go me! These do nothing for vibrations, just better grip in general than stock. I use the RockBrothers mountain bike gloves - say what you will, 10mm thick palm padding; bring it! Those are the most comfortable riding gloves I've ever had lol and actually help with the vibes! The new front brake lever has a bigger master cylinder with the aftermarket setup - good plus for braking. Though, tons of brake fade with the stock setup in the rain!!!!!

Cycra YZ250 skid plate - Didn't think that was going to fit, but was pleasantly surprised to see that it did! It is about 4 or 5mm thick polymer - if you don't mind the material it's not that bad. It has been bashed against some rocks and such so far - held up and saved my engine and frame!

Shifter - IMS shifter, much better than stock.. the stock one feels like it should be on a 50cc kids bike. This is awesome - love the extended shift lever, and it is angled so it doesn't hit any part of the engine or get close to it at all. Another cheap Amazon special!

Tube - I believe it's actually for a fuel bottle, but I use it to keep the tools, water bottles, and other things I can stuff in there. It is waterproof and can say it does work pretty well. The new versions have locks on them, so I missed out. I did have to remove the left panel off the plastics to install.

The carb is a Mikuni clone, JP made; maybe it'll last longer than the other one I had. I have a 110 main jet right now, 42 slow jet, and moved the needle one spot higher / richer.

The gearing I have currently is 12T front and 30T rear, 520 pitch. I think I will go up a few teeth in the rear next sprocket change; see if the acceleration is any better. I did the gearing for top speed only, pinged out couldn't hit 65 if I tried downhill with the wind lol Might play around with the 115 jet later, but for now it's running perfect. Need an a/f mix screw adjustment, but that's it.

I can't say how much I LOVE the look of the bike. For just over 1799 brand new (at the time) - compared to the Hawk, and I'm not talking smack, just looked better.... to me. I did look at the Hawks and Apollos and all as well; seems like you can't go wrong. Unless you get a lemon or one that was dropped every time it was moved.. But, an absolute beast off road too!