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Old 09-28-2019, 12:18 AM   #1
asauve19   asauve19 is offline
 
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Just purchased 2 raptor 200's need general info

These will be my 2 first ATV's, I know people suggest changing the oil before first start, but I was wondering about general things. Like what to do/not to do. What nuts/bolt to check and tighten... Any other odds and ends things I can't think of


 
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Old 09-28-2019, 01:55 AM   #2
humanbeing   humanbeing is offline
 
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It's powered by a steroided GY6. Machinist told u already https://www.motorfans.com.cn/forum.p...=290040&page=1 (Google chrome can auto translate the text. Use Google translate Apps if want to know what's the text inside image) what's inside GY6 design. Oil, oil & oil... is the key-point.
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Old 09-28-2019, 02:14 AM   #3
asauve19   asauve19 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by humanbeing View Post
It's powered by a steroided GY6. Machinist told u already https://www.motorfans.com.cn/forum.p...=290040&page=1 (Google chrome can auto translate the text. Use Google translate Apps if want to know what's the text inside image) what's inside GY6 design. Oil, oil & oil... is the key-point.

This is an odd response.. Was it directed at me?


 
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Old 09-28-2019, 09:39 AM   #4
culcune   culcune is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asauve19 View Post
This is an odd response.. Was it directed at me?
Human being lives in Hong Kong meaning English is not his first language. He is VERY helpful, but it usually takes a few posts from him to understand exactly what he is posting. On the deeply technical stuff he posts, such as wiring diagrams, he loses me. But he has MUCH knowledge to share.

What he is getting at as far as your new quads--the engines are essentially the common GY6 scooter engines, so whatever information you can find for the GY6 will apply for your engines.
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Old 09-28-2019, 10:04 AM   #5
bogieboy   bogieboy is offline
 
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what @Culcune said....@HumanBeing lives in HK, and i believe the link he posted was about some of the things that can go wrong with not changing the oil regularly? i just skimmed the thread a bit, and the translation from the native language leaves a lot to be desired on that site....LOL

as for bolts to check, if it is a bolt or nut, CHECK IT.......LOL pull it and put some blue loctite or similar threadlocking substance on the threads.

also, before starting the motor, most Chinariders recommend checking the valve clearances, as they are commonly too tight from the factory, and will cause poor starting/running/owner frustration LOL


 
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Old 09-28-2019, 11:36 AM   #6
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Please note also that there is gear oil at the rear of the CVT; you'll find a fill plug and a drain plug. I use synthetic 75W90.
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Old 09-28-2019, 12:03 PM   #7
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When the ATVs arrive, plan on spending a few hours going through it. Before you start to put the remaing parts together, put a wrench on everything that you can touch. Bolts that are subject to a lot of vibration use blue loctite. Install a new spark plug (NGK), change the engine oil, should be a plug on the bottom , and on the side. THere is a small drain plug in the back of the engine for the grear oil, and the fill plug should be on the rear side of the CVT (left side) cover.

Just go into it with the thought process that you are the quality controll. Check how the wires are roughted, brake lines, ect. I have the 2018 Bull 200 with about 30 hard hours on it. I have had a few of the body bolts fall out, and I need to occasionally check the rear axle nuts at the carrier, and the rear hub nuts. Asside from this the ATV has been very good. Oh yeah, I have been using the Rotella 15w40 oil since new, and I have driven it like it was stolen every time i have taken it out. So far So good...

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Old 09-28-2019, 01:38 PM   #8
asauve19   asauve19 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglass View Post
When the ATVs arrive, plan on spending a few hours going through it. Before you start to put the remaing parts together, put a wrench on everything that you can touch. Bolts that are subject to a lot of vibration use blue loctite. Install a new spark plug (NGK), change the engine oil, should be a plug on the bottom , and on the side. THere is a small drain plug in the back of the engine for the grear oil, and the fill plug should be on the rear side of the CVT (left side) cover.

Just go into it with the thought process that you are the quality controll. Check how the wires are roughted, brake lines, ect. I have the 2018 Bull 200 with about 30 hard hours on it. I have had a few of the body bolts fall out, and I need to occasionally check the rear axle nuts at the carrier, and the rear hub nuts. Asside from this the ATV has been very good. Oh yeah, I have been using the Rotella 15w40 oil since new, and I have driven it like it was stolen every time i have taken it out. So far So good...

Douglass

Someone else said use loctite on all nuts, Would that be a problem?


 
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Old 09-30-2019, 11:01 AM   #9
Douglass   Douglass is offline
 
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Someone else said use loctite on all nuts, Would that be a problem?

Nope, not at all. This is just what I have done with my bikes. I started with as many bolts as I could touch, to the bolts I felt were subject to the most vibration.


 
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Old 09-30-2019, 11:07 AM   #10
bogieboy   bogieboy is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglass View Post
Someone else said use loctite on all nuts, Would that be a problem?

Nope, not at all. This is just what I have done with my bikes. I started with as many bolts as I could touch, to the bolts I felt were subject to the most vibration.
i am the one that said all bolts and nuts.... my opnion, if its a bolt on a china bike, its prone to vibration...LOL


 
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Old 09-30-2019, 01:47 PM   #11
FLASHLIGHTBOY   FLASHLIGHTBOY is offline
 
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locktite

put it on everything... EXCEPT your chain adjustors.. thos e you will need to loosen them to adjust your chain.... make sure the bolts are EXTRA TIGHT... and the adjustors nuts you can double nut them... as long as the bolts for the rear axle flanges are EXTRA TIGHT.... then they should not come loose... another good trick is to put a dab of silicone on the body bolts where the nuts go on... an d the left side inspection chrome plug... and your brake light sending unit on th e right foot linkage.... since it is plastic nut... you can not tighten it too much.... silicone good in this case so it does not rattle loose...
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Old 11-01-2019, 10:34 PM   #12
asauve19   asauve19 is offline
 
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So they finally came, but it seems like you have to push the throttle more than you should to get them going, then they almost jump, is this normal?


 
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Old 11-04-2019, 08:58 AM   #13
Deckard_Cain   Deckard_Cain is offline
 
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Originally Posted by asauve19 View Post
So they finally came, but it seems like you have to push the throttle more than you should to get them going, then they almost jump, is this normal?
Being a CVT, if you've never ridden one before (or driven, as my car has a CVT as well), it can be a bit weird.

You need to rev up the engine a bit and it'll go nowhere at first, but there is a specified rpm at which the clutch will engage and then the quad moves. After that, you can operate within the rev range of the engine and you'll be fine.. but if you let it return to idle, the clutch will disengage and you'll be essentially "in neutral".

Most GY6 clutches are set up (with internal springs) to about 1500 rpm. So below that engine speed, it just free revs.

By comparison, my sons' Tao New Cheetah with F-N-R geared transmission is instant go when applying throttle. It's just different.


 
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Old 11-04-2019, 04:36 PM   #14
asauve19   asauve19 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deckard_Cain View Post
Being a CVT, if you've never ridden one before (or driven, as my car has a CVT as well), it can be a bit weird.

You need to rev up the engine a bit and it'll go nowhere at first, but there is a specified rpm at which the clutch will engage and then the quad moves. After that, you can operate within the rev range of the engine and you'll be fine.. but if you let it return to idle, the clutch will disengage and you'll be essentially "in neutral".

Most GY6 clutches are set up (with internal springs) to about 1500 rpm. So below that engine speed, it just free revs.

By comparison, my sons' Tao New Cheetah with F-N-R geared transmission is instant go when applying throttle. It's just different.

First of all, sweet Daiblo name. Secondly, thanks for the reply!


It's good to know, it was weird at first, but a few hours and I got used to it, I do wish it turned a little easier.. Seems to not want to turn all that well.. Also, it came about 99% assembled. Didn't have to put on the steering arm or anything, and after about 5 hours of riding, all the bolts still seem tight from the factory. I check all I could see.. All these suggested things don't seem to be an issue for the two I got.


If someone can however, help me navigate where the gear oil is, and how to change it I would be very appreciative of that!


 
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Old 11-05-2019, 07:33 AM   #15
dugndeep   dugndeep is offline
 
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My Bull 200 doesn't want to turn so easy either.At least yours has grease fittings,don't know if their in the right places to help your steering.At the top of my Bulls steering stem is just a plastic support of some kind,supposedly at the bottom there is a bearing but partskit just shows a bushing.


 
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