My first RX3 valve adjustment

[2LZ]

I laid my tank sideways on a towel on top of the bike without disconnecting anything but the sending unit to the gauge. Plus, on the right side radiator, I bungeed it forward to hold it out of the way. That helped a little on the dreaded exhaust valves.

The hardest parts I found were the upper radiator mounts behind the hoses and the exhaust valves, just like everyone else.

Good luck! I do mine again in about 100 miles.............

[BlackBike]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

I laid my tank sideways on a towel on top of the bike without disconnecting anything but the sending unit to the gauge. Plus, on the right side radiator, I bungeed it forward to hold it out of the way. That helped a little on the dreaded exhaust valves.

The hardest parts I found were the upper radiator mounts behind the hoses and the exhaust valves, just like everyone else.

Good luck! I do mine again in about 100 miles.............

Too bad there aren't hinged parts so to speak on the plastics and radiators to make it easy. I know if there is a best way at it, you will find it. I do the same thing going after those hard to get parts. Funny how the service manual says do this but you can always find that trick to cut the job time in half.

[Juanro]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

And mark the covers front and rear. Just what I've seen posted

Front and rear and up and down. I've drawn a letter with a permanent marker over the edge, partly on the cover and part on the engine, to keep them sorted and aligned.

[dpl096]

500 mile servicing and valve check completed. Went better than I expected but like I said .. I got my mind right boss. I dont know how many others have run into this but my .003/.076 feeler slid in and out and was snug but not forced. The .004/.102 would not fit at all. As I said the .003/.076 was snug and felt like about what I would have set them at had I adjusted them. I left the alone and will check again at 1000 or 1200 miles. Additionally I changed oil and this time my oil definitely had the odor of fuel in it. As such I followed the lead of a couple of good folks and eliminated my OCS entirely. I removed the factory drain line on the air box and put the drain line from the OCS on it with plug installed. I'm wanting to monitor the output to see what occurs. All in all I enjoyed the job but like most ...completely agree riding the RX3 is a damned sight more fun than this !
Thanx to everyone who has posted tidbits and shortcuts on the valve check..I used several suggestions and believe they made the job much easier than doing it strictly "by the book" on the tutorial.

[BlackBike]

Does that tube now empty on to the chain?

[Rodtheviking]

Interested about the OCS removal... we did 150 miles the other day and both our tubes were completely full. I noticed when we parked them for the day and the garage reeked of gas all of a sudden.

[dpl096]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

Does that tube now empty on to the chain?

No sir ... I left the plug in to see what discharge builds up there. 3Banger did the same and had a small amount of oil build up in it after 500 miles and NO odor of fuel detected.

[dpl096]

Originally Posted by Rodtheviking

Interested about the OCS removal... we did 150 miles the other day and both our tubes were completely full. I noticed when we parked them for the day and the garage reeked of gas all of a sudden.

If you check out the last few days of posts at AdventureRider you will see some interesting thoughts and information exchanges in regards to the purpose/usefulness of the OCS. Just strikes me as odd the bike in one of the Zongshen corporate videos did not have the OCS on it. Makes you wonder if it's a CARB or EPA related apparatus for emissions. I'm going to run it this way until my next servicing and see how it goes.

[BlackBike]

Forgive the dumb question but if it is capped on the end, what keeps the condensation from sloshing back into the crankcase. I guess that's the point, to burn it up in the case
Don't waste time on this, I just need to review those old posts

[dpl096]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

Forgive the dumb question but if it is capped on the end, what keeps the condensation from sloshing back into the crankcase. I guess that's the point, to burn it up in the case
Don't waste time on this, I just need to review those old posts

Not a dumb question at all BB... I've pondered the same thing. There "should" be minimal residue build up in the drain line. 3banger collected 6ml of oil in his drain line after 500 miles. That's 0.0126803 of a pint ... some folks are getting that in a single ride with the OCS on.. Im just a shade tree wrench turner in Hellinois but the "science" of pumping the gaseous fumes coming out of the crankcase back into the intake to be burnt up in combustion makes more sense then allowing it to condensate in an OCS where some can drain back into the crankcase contaminating the oil .... I'll check my plug on a very regular basis to see if there is a drastic change in the firing/combustion but I'm thinking that via the O2 sensors the ECU should compensate for the returned gases. I may very well be off my nut here but I'm gonna give it a whirl.

[Rodtheviking]

Found the thread on AdventureRider, thank you.

[dpl096]

I took the bike for a 30 mile spin this morning and was pleased in the smoother shifting with the Quicksilver 20W-50 Full Syn Motorcycle Oil. Now for a 500 mile test to be sure.

[CSaddict]

If you plug the ocs how is the crank case relieving pressure?

[Rodtheviking]

From what I can see you just remove the little canister thingy and run the tube from the air box right to the crank case.

[CSaddict]

Not sure how that is beneficial due to the oil vapor lowering the octane. That won't stop the blow by from contaminating the oil.