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Old 05-15-2017, 05:42 AM   #61
humanbeing   humanbeing is offline
 
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British folk said (bike = 125 cousin)
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Old 05-15-2017, 12:27 PM   #62
timcosby   timcosby is offline
 
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just set your trip odometer when you fill up and go till you have to turn on reserve and then you now know how many miles more or less that you can go till you need gas.
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Old 05-15-2017, 01:43 PM   #63
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I hit the trails a bit yesterday with the new tires!! Kenda 270s! 17" front and rear. Took my PSI down to about 20. Bike seemed to do pretty well. It's hard to really say "how good" it is because this is the first bike i've ever ridden off road, i've always been on the street before this. Bike seemed to run good, but my tail light wasn't working except for the brake light and my gauges weren't illuminated either. This bike does have a gas gauge and gear indicator however. I'm going to check my fuses and connections. Also, the bike seems to rev up slowly and come back down slowly. It feels like too much restriction. I think it could definitely take advantage of having the muffler drilled out a bit in the insert and rejetting the carb. Does anyone have any pics of the hole you put the RTV in? I also probably need to find a heavier shock for it, as i'm a heavier rider.
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File Type: jpg ssr.jpg (102.4 KB, 1137 views)
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Old 05-15-2017, 02:04 PM   #64
mjs91882   mjs91882 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derekon2s View Post
I hit the trails a bit yesterday with the new tires!! Kenda 270s! 17" front and rear. Took my PSI down to about 20. Bike seemed to do pretty well. It's hard to really say "how good" it is because this is the first bike i've ever ridden off road, i've always been on the street before this. Bike seemed to run good, but my tail light wasn't working except for the brake light and my gauges weren't illuminated either. This bike does have a gas gauge and gear indicator however. I'm going to check my fuses and connections. Also, the bike seems to rev up slowly and come back down slowly. It feels like too much restriction. I think it could definitely take advantage of having the muffler drilled out a bit in the insert and rejetting the carb. Does anyone have any pics of the hole you put the RTV in? I also probably need to find a heavier shock for it, as i'm a heavier rider.
Nice ride, looks good. Yours has a gas gauge? What year is it? Thought they didn't have gas gauges?


 
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Old 05-15-2017, 02:21 PM   #65
Derekon2s   Derekon2s is offline
 
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I don't know what year they added them, but mine is a '16. Kinda funny, the odometer is in KM though. lol Not a big deal though. Also note the gear indicator.
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Old 05-15-2017, 04:28 PM   #66
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Derekon2s View Post
Does anyone have any pics of the hole you put the RTV in? I also probably need to find a heavier shock for it, as i'm a heavier rider.
Since we have different carbs (I've now earned that the SSR TU250 motor does not have the Mikuni as my 200cc motor) I'm not sure.......
Very nice looking bike. I wonder if the gas gauge is close to accurate?
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Old 05-15-2017, 04:58 PM   #67
mjs91882   mjs91882 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Derekon2s View Post
I don't know what year they added them, but mine is a '16. Kinda funny, the odometer is in KM though. lol Not a big deal though. Also note the gear indicator.
Awesome man!! Thank you for the picture!' Looks like a great ride. I will hold off on the 2014 that I look at tomorrow and get a 16 or newer with a gas gauge!! That gas gauge sold it for me!!🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉😀😀😀..


 
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Old 05-15-2017, 05:07 PM   #68
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The dealer here wants $2999 plus taxes and registration for a 2014 or $3499 for a 2017 plus taxes and registration!! Anyone have any thoughts? They are already built and ready to go


 
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Old 05-15-2017, 05:25 PM   #69
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Regarding the lights, have you made sure all light switches are on, not just the highbeams? The big button is for the high beams only and the smaller one below turns all other lights on. I'm asking because I missed this myself when my xf bike was new. Did you get rid of the kickstand switch?
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Old 05-15-2017, 05:26 PM   #70
dh   dh is offline
 
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The tires look great. I had no idea a fuel gauge was added to the new XF! This is not a fast revving bike, but don't worry it gets much better as you break in the motor and make some mods. This motor comes with lots of restrictions on it, probably to make it California emissions friendly. Here is what has worked for me so far...

The slow revving nature of the bike probably has a lot to do with the C/V carb on this bike. Jetting makes a huge difference. Also, there is a thin metal cap covering your idle mixture screw which is set pretty lean; carefully pierce it and pull it out(corkscrew?). The slide hole modification is an easy mod to do and probably one of the biggest... did you say you ordered the Amazon jet kit? If so it comes with the drill bit and instructions. If not, I will look at mine and see what size bit you need and take some photos.

The smog device bolted to your exhaust header causes the bike to run lean/hot and pop during deceleration, remove that and fabricate a plate to cap off the remaining hole.

Consider modifying your air cleaner box if needed, I drilled about a half dozen 3/4" holes in the top of mine.

The muffler is stuffed with a catalytic converter that needs to be removed. The amazon kit also includes a 3/8" bit to drill an extra hole or two into the end of the muffler. A slip on aftermarket type would be nice as well.

Here is a great CV carb tuning guide a mechanic shared with me....

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tunin...m_engines.html
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Old 05-16-2017, 10:50 AM   #71
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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The dealer here wants $2999 plus taxes and registration for a 2014 or $3499 for a 2017 plus taxes and registration!! Anyone have any thoughts? They are already built and ready to go
That's expensive, even for an SSR. They list for 3099.99. See link.

http://www.ssrmotorsports.com/store/enduro/xf250.php

You can get them from many vendors for 2799.99.

http://gokartsusa.com/SSR-XF250-5-Sp...Dirt-Bike.aspx


I can see maybe a little mark-up for flooring a bunch of bikes but 400.00 seems a bit much. I'm sure he'll dicker with you.
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Old 05-16-2017, 10:53 AM   #72
Derekon2s   Derekon2s is offline
 
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2LZ: The gas gauge looks to be accurate so far! I was running on one bar going to the gas station and i put almost 2 gallons in her, so i suspect its decently accurate.

DH: There's a light switch? lol I'm going to feel dumb if i get on the bike and see it. I'll check it out when i get home today. Thanks for the great info on the carb! I believe mine has the Tekei carb? I wasn't expecting it to rev like a 2 stroke or anything, but it seems pretty slow. Do you think there's much of an upgrade by replacing the exhaust pipe itself as opposed to just replacing the muffler? I've seen the stainless exhaust, but aside from being more durable, i didnt think there would be much of an upgrade. I think i'd use the mufflers with the 51mm opening?

For the kickstand switch, i took it apart and removed the spring, then i put in a screw the bottom to hold the piece in that contacts the kickstand. Viola! No more problems there.

Also looking at this shock for the bike: http://chinesemotorcyclepartsonline....rtno_RSHCK075#
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2016 Suzuki DRZ400SM
2016 SSR XF250
2003 Honda XR70
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2004 Suzuki GSXR750 -Totaled-

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Old 05-16-2017, 11:05 AM   #73
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dh View Post
The tires look great. I had no idea a fuel gauge was added to the new XF! This is not a fast revving bike, but don't worry it gets much better as you break in the motor and make some mods. This motor comes with lots of restrictions on it, probably to make it California emissions friendly. Here is what has worked for me so far...

The slow revving nature of the bike probably has a lot to do with the C/V carb on this bike. Jetting makes a huge difference. Also, there is a thin metal cap covering your idle mixture screw which is set pretty lean; carefully pierce it and pull it out(corkscrew?). The slide hole modification is an easy mod to do and probably one of the biggest... did you say you ordered the Amazon jet kit? If so it comes with the drill bit and instructions. If not, I will look at mine and see what size bit you need and take some photos.

The smog device bolted to your exhaust header causes the bike to run lean/hot and pop during deceleration, remove that and fabricate a plate to cap off the remaining hole.

Consider modifying your air cleaner box if needed, I drilled about a half dozen 3/4" holes in the top of mine.

The muffler is stuffed with a catalytic converter that needs to be removed. The amazon kit also includes a 3/8" bit to drill an extra hole or two into the end of the muffler. A slip on aftermarket type would be nice as well.

Here is a great CV carb tuning guide a mechanic shared with me....

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tunin...m_engines.html
I had all the same symptoms on Q and you're right, the CV carb needs some help with jetting, the slide mod and mixture screw. I even moved the needle up a notch. It definitely helps. I have not seen your carb but blocking off the little port with RTV under the small side plate on the Mikuni definitely helped throttle response. I also drilled a bunch of big holes in the top of my air box as you did, as well.

The air injection is a quandary.
If you block it off and leave the cat, the cat will start to collect gunk because it's not receiving its occasional incineration from the fresh air.
If you remove the cat and leave the air injection, it will make a premature death of your muffler packing because it will be the recipient of the shot of fresh O2.
My suggestion would be that if you're leaving the cat, leave the air injection. If you're changing the muffler and removing the cat, then block off or remove and plate the air injection.

My air injection is still on the bike but I plugged the big rubber hose to the head with a sawed-off bolt and then blocked the vacuum line with a BB. On the TT250, I gutted it and plated it as you did. I left is on Q at that time because they were squeaking about smogging bikes down at the Capitol. I wasn't sure what was going to happen. Ended up being nothing (for now).
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Old 05-16-2017, 11:59 AM   #74
dh   dh is offline
 
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2LZ great point about the connection between the cat and the air injection pump working together. I originally capped the black hose to the air pump/valve but the valve later blew out and the black hose got burnt to a crisp. Good call on the needle clip too. My carb needle doesn't have any notches in it so I added 1 shim.


Derek I also have a Teiekei Mv30 seems to be pretty good quality imo. I have found that individual jets cost up to 3x as much as mikuni jets which is why I experimented with mikuni jets and then got the amazon kit which came with several properly fitting Teikei jets. Glad to hear the gas gauge works!

I don't have any recommendations for the aftermarket pipes unfortunately. I had my stock muffler cut open, cat removed, and welded back together like new. 2LZ didn't you find a aftermarket pipe for your Q that fit nicely?
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Old 05-16-2017, 12:14 PM   #75
dh   dh is offline
 
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The dealer here wants $2999 plus taxes and registration for a 2014 or $3499 for a 2017 plus taxes and registration!! Anyone have any thoughts? They are already built and ready to go
Yeah seems high but I have seen dealers asking as high as $3600 I bought my 2013 for $2,700 including assembly sales tax and registration. Mind you this was 3 years ago and the dealer was only a few miles from SSR's HQ so shipping wasn't a factor for the dealer. I bet they have some room to negotiate.

Did you make them any offers?
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