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Old 06-03-2017, 09:19 AM   #1
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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I know the post is literally above/below this one right now, but while taking apart the rear end, I discovered my rear sprocket was loose. I posted a couple of videos of it here, just in case you somehow missed it.
http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=19265
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Old 06-03-2017, 04:24 PM   #2
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Got her together! Just waiting on the battery to charge fully before hooking it up. Still need to tighten up the rear spokes up, but I am hot and I cant ride it right now anyway. It's miller time...
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Last edited by Megadan; 06-03-2017 at 05:17 PM.
 
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Old 06-03-2017, 04:38 PM   #3
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A quick word. I was originally going to run the PZ30 carb on the bike, but ended up just putting the VM26 on. Since these carbs are essentially a like for like swap, I don't think there will be any affect on the power for a "stock" dyno run.

The only thing with the Mikuni setup, which I hope doesn't leave me too rich at low speed is that I left the 30 pilot jet in, but swapped the main back to a 110 and left the needle in the middle position. It shouldn't be too rich, but we will have to see.

Also, a point of humor with me during this process. I pulled the stock plug to swap in a Denso unit and decided to check the gap. Stock plug was gapped at a massive .022
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Old 06-09-2017, 08:05 PM   #4
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It's Alive! Before you say something, yes, I have it idling at about 2100rpm. I did that intentionally for it's first break in run. Idle is now adjusted properly :P


As mentioned in the video, the valves need adjusted again. Clutch REALLY needs adjusted. I thought I had it right after pulling the cable to lube it, but obviously I didn't. Ah well.

Carb setup is just about spot on. Fired right up dead cold with half choke, and I was able to open the choke within 30 seconds of firing. 1 1/2 turns on the mixture screw. It will need a bit of tinkering, but not much, I am happy.
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Old 06-10-2017, 12:04 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadan View Post
It's Alive! Before you say something, yes, I have it idling at about 2100rpm. I did that intentionally for it's first break in run. Idle is now adjusted properly :P

As mentioned in the video, the valves need adjusted again. Clutch REALLY needs adjusted. I thought I had it right after pulling the cable to lube it, but obviously I didn't. Ah well.

Carb setup is just about spot on. Fired right up dead cold with half choke, and I was able to open the choke within 30 seconds of firing. 1 1/2 turns on the mixture screw. It will need a bit of tinkering, but not much, I am happy.
Your idle is too high, its obvious you don't know what your doing and you have no business working on a motorcycle
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Old 06-10-2017, 07:32 AM   #6
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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Originally Posted by BlackBike View Post
Your idle is too high, its obvious you don't know what your doing and you have no business working on a motorcycle
Dangit! Guess I better sell them both!

Changed the oil, adjusted the valves to .004 intake .005 exhaust. I started at the recommended TT250 specs for break in .007, but it just didn't want to run right and was WAY too clattery. the .004/.005 combo is still classic flat tappet loud, but its the right kind of noise now.

I backed off the idle mixture screw half a turn as well, so now it is at 1 turn out. Plug was rather sooty for the brief 20 minutes I first ran it. Not overly sooty, but definitely on the rich side for sure. Still hangs just a teeny bit before going back to idle so I may back it off another quarter turn and see how it behaves. That aluminum thumb screw for the idle mixture is a lovely thing, I must say.

Took it for it's maiden voyage around the neighborhood and up a major street here for a total of 5 miles, doing the typical break in thing, up shifting and down shifting constantly, engine braking, throttling up. I wouldn't call what I am doing a hard break in, but not really gentle either.

That said, she gets up and scoots. I was expecting the bike to be rather doggish being brand new with 17/45 gearing out of the box, but it pulls my 260lbs of chewed bubblegum rather well. Surprisingly comfortable too. I gave the suspension a mild test and it performed way better than I was expecting. Overall, I must say I rather love my Hawk. I don't regret my decision to buy it one bit.
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Old 06-10-2017, 01:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
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That aluminum thumb screw for the idle mixture is a lovely thing, I must say.
Please tell us more about that! Where did you find an aluminum thumb screw for the pilot mixture screw?
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Old 06-10-2017, 04:12 PM   #8
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Please tell us more about that! Where did you find an aluminum thumb screw for the pilot mixture screw?
One of these guys. http://www.ebay.com/itm/111981067209...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Old 06-11-2017, 02:04 PM   #9
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I thought about options like that, but I like finding simple solutions to issues that your average young person might be able to accomplish. I am going to try a couple of very simple approaches first, such as replace the flange head bolt with a standard bolt and washer, or quite possibly a button or cap head allen bolt. Without the flange on the bolt it may buy just enough room to finagle it in.

EDIT: I went ahead and ordered an EMGO aluminum shifter as well (Heck, it was only 19 bucks) which has the bolt on the bottom. I can compare the two, and in the end I will probably just turn around and sell the IMS shifter to somebody at an obvious discount.

Yes, it is my lazy way of doing things lol. I didn't order it to begin with, it was just sent to me when the actal shifter I did order was out of stock.
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Last edited by Megadan; 06-11-2017 at 02:35 PM.
 
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Old 06-12-2017, 12:30 PM   #10
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Thank you very kindly! I just ordered two.
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Old 06-12-2017, 02:38 PM   #11
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Hey MegaDan, I've searched all over for capacity of front fork oil and want
to see if that is still fresh on your mind.
I've already put 200 miles on my Hawk 250 but I'm going to pull front end apart to service forks this week. Also I'm going to install the Hawk cluster as the oem speedo is a joke. Thanks for your advice.


 
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Old 06-12-2017, 03:37 PM   #12
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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Originally Posted by elevatorman View Post
Hey MegaDan, I've searched all over for capacity of front fork oil and want
to see if that is still fresh on your mind.
I've already put 200 miles on my Hawk 250 but I'm going to pull front end apart to service forks this week. Also I'm going to install the Hawk cluster as the oem speedo is a joke. Thanks for your advice.
I started with the specified amount of 210ml in each fork, for fork oil. A lot of people like to say "put back in what comes out" but you will find that each fork most likely has a different amount of oil in them. My left fork had almost twice as much as the right.

Make sure to pump the forks through their full range of motion a few times, and if you want to ensure you get as much out as possible, leave them upside down at a slight angle for a few minutes.

If you want to take the extra steps like I did, then I also flushed the forks with parts store brand ATF by filling them, cycling the forks right side up a few times, and then repeating the draining process. I did this for two reasons. First, to get as much of the factory oil out of the forks as possible. Two, my forks had a bunch of contaminants/debris in them.

Once I was satisfied that I got as much of the oil out as I could, I filled them with said 210ml, and then used a small tape measure to check the air gap. I had to add just a tiny bit more to one fork to get them even. If you are unfamiliar with this, you essentially add your oil, cycle the tube to ensure all of the air is out of the system, then with the tube all the way compressed, measure the distance between the top of the oil, and the top of the fork tube.

Once you have a figure, write it down somewhere for future use. I change my fork oil annually on my bikes, and without disassembling the forks you will never get all of the old oil out, so the levels will always be slightly off. Using the measuring method, you are ensuring that you get the same level of oil in the forks each time.
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Old 06-13-2017, 03:32 PM   #13
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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lol. I can take a good picture too from time to time, but this ain't one of them.
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Old 06-13-2017, 09:16 PM   #14
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25 lbs loss is the quickest (and cheapest)way to 65mph. My model is not set up for that power .

I put in that needle screw too and just f'ed it up cant, get past 45mph. Will put the original screw back in but wonder if I'm experiencing trash since I had a starting issue before thatthunbscrew install. Now it starts easy but bogs past 45mph.

What does that sticker say on f fender...if you crack your head it ain't our fault , no doubt.
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Old 06-14-2017, 01:05 AM   #15
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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Originally Posted by BlackBike View Post
25 lbs loss is the quickest (and cheapest)way to 65mph. My model is not set up for that power .

I put in that needle screw too and just f'ed it up cant, get past 45mph. Will put the original screw back in but wonder if I'm experiencing trash since I had a starting issue before thatthunbscrew install. Now it starts easy but bogs past 45mph.

What does that sticker say on f fender...if you crack your head it ain't our fault , no doubt.
I could lose a good 40-50lbs for sure, but I'd still weigh 200-210lbs even at my lightest. Back in the days of young, I weighed 235lbs at 8% body fat and a lot more muscle. Back when I played football and did weight lifting... I miss those days lol.

It's kind of nice to know I am not the only person that screwed up thatthumbscrewthing. I will say this, my bike runs worlds better now with the original mixture screw back in. I almost wonder if the tip of the thumb screw has a different taper on it than the standard one on the Mikunis. Can't verify that with mine now since it's all messed up.

No idea what the stickers say, but I know that eventually I will dig out my heat gun to remove them. I am almost sure they say,"Danger, this is a motorcycle. Motorcycle Hot. May crash. Crash hurt bad"
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