I just received my new, DF/Ice Bear Bobber!

[FastDoc]

My Fiancee is worried that she will see less and less of me now LOL. She may have a point.

Ya think?

One seat....

See you later honey! Love you! :P

[Weldangrind]

If the brakes aren't spongy after you pump the lever a few times, it'll likely be fine as is. That will give you time to research an impact.

I recommend Maxima Chain Wax; it's around $12.00 per can where I live, but it lasts a long time. The benefit to it is that it doesn't fling off onto your jacket.

[SpudRider]

Good call on the chain wax, Weld. I didn't notice the fully exposed, drive chain. :roll: That drive chain looks very tight by the way; you need about 1-1/2" of slack in the drive chain, or you risk damaging the countershaft sprocket. 8O

You might also try DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant, available at most Lowes stores.



http://www.lowes.com/pd_213197-39963...ose&facetInfo=

I've used this product, and it's great!

Spud

[Weldangrind]

I've never tried Tefflon lube on cables, but I know that Chain Wax is very effective on cables, in addition to chains.

BTW, you can usually find Chain Wax at any bike shop.

[SpudRider]

I'm sure the Maxima chain wax is excellent. Many motorcyclists are using the Dupont Teflon lubricant with great results.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motor...chain-lube.htm

Spud

[katoranger]

Originally Posted by FastDoc

By the way an impact screwdriver may still do the trick.

I like to have at least one Snap-on screwdriver for cases like this.

I would try it too. Most auto parts stores or sears sell them. It is a great tool to have.

[GonzoX]

Thanks Guys,

I will check into the chain slack. I am a total MC noob unfortunately. I have sooooo much to learn. LOL.

Seems like a good simple bike to learn on.

[katoranger]

You will get a crash course here.

[SpudRider]

X2. You came to the right place, Gonzo.

Spud

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

X2. You came to the right place, Gonzo.

Spud

There haven't been many incidents of flaming newbies here, either. We all started somewhere. Bring on the questions.

[GonzoX]

OK have noob questions:

1)Somebody told me that after break in I should use synthetic oil and that would make shifting a lot smoother. True or not? What would make it shift smoother.

2)I can find nuetral fine when the engins is off. While running with clutch not engaged though it is really hard to find nuetral. Is this normal?

I can not ride the bike yet because I still have to get my M license and I am still waiting on the tags.

3)The transmission seems to only go from N to 1st and 2nd gear. I can not get it in 3rd gear or beyond while engine is off or even while idling. Its like its not even there. Is that normal? Do I have to be actually riding the bike before I can find gears 3-5?

4)Owners manual says to get M oil specifically designed for wet clutch engines. Did I buy the right oil?
I bought Lucas high performance semi synthetic 10w-40 JASO MA-2motorcycle oil. It says its OK for wet clutch applications. I was in a hurry when I bought it. Is it OK?

[FastDoc]

[quote="GonzoX"]OK have noob questions:

1)Somebody told me that after break in I should use synthetic oil and that would make shifting a lot smoother. True or not? What would make it shift smoother.

A little controversy here but in general synthetic oil is fine. Whether there is a practical advantage versus regular oil changes with conventional oil is controversial.

2)I can find nuetral fine when the engins is off. While running with clutch not engaged though it is really hard to find nuetral. Is this normal?

Might be normal. Might be the oil. Might be the clutch cable lubrication or adjustment. In any event should be fine. Change the oil, lube and adjust the cable.

I can not ride the bike yet because I still have to get my M license and I am still waiting on the tags.

I recommend a MSF class.

3)The transmission seems to only go from N to 1st and 2nd gear. I can not get it in 3rd gear or beyond while engine is off or even while idling. Its like its not even there. Is that normal? Do I have to be actually riding the bike before I can find gears 3-5?

Normal and usually yes.

4)Owners manual says to get M oil specifically designed for wet clutch engines. Did I buy the right oil?
I bought Lucas high performance semi synthetic 10w-40 JASO MA-2motorcycle oil. It says its OK for wet clutch applications. I was in a hurry when I bought it. Is it OK?

Your oil is fine. Many here use Walmart Shell Rotella 15-50 with good results.

Your homework assignment.

Read all the content on Dan's website:

www.dansmc.com.

[GonzoX]

Thanks FastDoc,

Transmission doesnt have a cable. Its a rod. It has an adjustment nut on each end but that only adjusts the possition of the pedal up or down from what I can see.

And yes I am taking the MFS class 11-13May.

Your comment about the shifting with engine off gave me piece of mind. Was worried about that so thanks again. Once I get temporary tags I will let my brother test it out for me on the road.

I called killermotorsports this morning to get the temp tags emailed to me.
Not sure how long this takes but I did not get it today. I guess even temp tags take a while?

Thanks again.

[GonzoX]

Oh one more thing. My understanding is that the engine oil also acts as the transmission oil right? That's why you use wet clutch oil correct?

I know that may sound a bit dumb but I am really a total motorcycle noob here.

[FastDoc]

Originally Posted by GonzoX

Oh one more thing. My understanding is that the engine oil also acts as the transmission oil right? That's why you use wet clutch oil correct?

I know that may sound a bit dumb but I am really a total motorcycle noob here.

Not dumb at all. None of us were born knowing this stuff.

Yes to your question.

The lubrication and adjustment I was refering to is the clutch cable, you are refrencing the shifter linkage.

You are being very wise in your approach to beginning motorcycling.