Winterizing Bikes

krat · 11-08-2021, 09:31 PM

Here's a question for you.

I am winterizing the bikes and adding fuel stabilizer to the gas.

If my bikes get 100 MPG how far do I need to ride to get the treated gas from the tank, through the fuel line, into the float bowl and spread through the carb passages?

A trip around the block ain't going to do the job I fear.

I may have to call in volunteers, I have several bikes!

braindead0 · 11-08-2021, 10:19 PM

Drain the fuel out of the carb/petcock.. if the tank is steel fill with fuel and stabilizer and yo should be good to go.. if plastic just stabilize..

If you want to go the extra mile, pull spark plug and spray oil into the cylinder and crank it over a few times..

A lot depends on storage, if it's in an area that doesn't have large temperature fluctuations you can get away with a lot less winterizing.

Mudflap · 11-09-2021, 05:17 AM

Always better to drain the float bowls rather than rely on stabilizers because ethanol can still cause corrosion Filling the bikes with AV gas also works if the bike doesn't have a cat. The battery can be preserved by keeping it charged.

braindead0 · 11-09-2021, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudflap

Always better to drain the float bowls rather than rely on stabilizers because ethanol can still cause corrosion Filling the bikes with AV gas also works if the bike doesn't have a cat. The battery can be preserved by keeping it charged.

Good point on battery, forgot about that one as I tend to get in a ride here or there during the winter.

If you have a lithium battery it's a bit less likely to have issues in storage if you have the correct type of charger that can charge to storage voltage.

Lead acid, keep on a maintenance charger and it should be fine, just make sure the charger you use isn't a trickle charger than constantly applies charging voltage...

ExMxer · 11-09-2021, 03:29 PM

Add gas to tank with Stabil …. Ride at least 3-5 miles. Upon cooling, shut off petcock, start bike and idle until it dies. Then open drain on carb and leave open several hours to allow all gas to dry up in bowl. Take out plug, a few drops of oil into cylinder, replace plug. Lube chain, clean filter, lightly coat brake discs with mild lubricant. Prop up on stand of some sort, elevating both wheels if possible, release a few pounds of air from the tires so the rubber can take a rest. If suspension has bleeders, bleed all air off upon placing on stand. Cover, and sleep well……. If liquid cooled, add complete system flush to the list. Also, complete full detail scrubbing before any of the above is started, that way adding parts Santa brought you over the Holidays makes the fun easier due to working on a clean machine !
Come Spring, clean bike, fresh fluids, add fresh gas….Enjoy. My routine for decades, never failed me yet! Enjoy it, take an afternoon to give your girl a nice winters nap. Tuck her in good……

**JerryHawk250** · 11-09-2021, 04:38 PM

I ride year round so my gas or battery never has a chance to go bad.

My advise is move to a warmer climate. lol

buzz · 11-09-2021, 08:57 PM

Just start them every month, its good to keep them running. Just like to hear even in winter.

Skyd · 11-11-2021, 01:15 PM

Deflating your tires is a bad idea unless you elevate the bike as it's likely to cause flat spots. If you're not going to elevate the bike you should actually over inflate them (still within max psi rating).

I've always wanted to see testing for draining the carb or not. Logic says draining is better but once the fuel evaporates does it leave anything to eat away and corrode? It's the ethanol I'm concerned with, it doesn't fully evaporate does it?

ExMxer · 11-11-2021, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skyd

Deflating your tires is a bad idea unless you elevate the bike as it's likely to cause flat spots. If you're not going to elevate the bike you should actually over inflate them (still within max psi rating).

I've always wanted to see testing for draining the carb or not. Logic says draining is better but once the fuel evaporates does it leave anything to eat away and corrode? It's the ethanol I'm concerned with, it doesn't fully evaporate does it?

I deflate tires because the bikes are all on stands, both wheels elevated. As for the fuel, I’ve no clue. I only use “100%” gas, or at least that’s what the sign says. They way I’m doing it has worked for us for over 40 years, I’m not changing a thing……

Skyd · 11-12-2021, 08:48 AM

ya with the bikes elevated I would think the air pressure is less of an issue. 100% non ethanol gas is for sure you're best bet. It's hard to come by around here.

2LZ · 11-12-2021, 01:07 PM

I have far more problems with batteries than fuel, in my fleet. I ended up buying tricklers for each bike. Soooooooooooooooo tired of replacing batteries.

11-08-2021, 09:31 PM	#1
krat Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: KY Posts: 257	Winterizing Bikes Here's a question for you. I am winterizing the bikes and adding fuel stabilizer to the gas. If my bikes get 100 MPG how far do I need to ride to get the treated gas from the tank, through the fuel line, into the float bowl and spread through the carb passages? A trip around the block ain't going to do the job I fear. I may have to call in volunteers, I have several bikes! __________________ %90 of the Chinese motorbikes ever made are still on the road. The other %10 made it back home.
	1

11-09-2021, 04:38 PM	#6
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,555	I ride year round so my gas or battery never has a chance to go bad. My advise is move to a warmer climate. lol __________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
	1

11-11-2021, 01:15 PM	#8
Skyd Join Date: Mar 2021 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 242	Deflating your tires is a bad idea unless you elevate the bike as it's likely to cause flat spots. If you're not going to elevate the bike you should actually over inflate them (still within max psi rating). I've always wanted to see testing for draining the carb or not. Logic says draining is better but once the fuel evaporates does it leave anything to eat away and corrode? It's the ethanol I'm concerned with, it doesn't fully evaporate does it? __________________ 2020 RPS Hawk 250 - Build thread can be found here: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=28374 "Do Wheelies and Forget your Feelies" "If vegetarians eat vegetables, what do humanitarians eat?" -unknown
	0

11-12-2021, 08:48 AM	#10
Skyd Join Date: Mar 2021 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 242	ya with the bikes elevated I would think the air pressure is less of an issue. 100% non ethanol gas is for sure you're best bet. It's hard to come by around here. __________________ 2020 RPS Hawk 250 - Build thread can be found here: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=28374 "Do Wheelies and Forget your Feelies" "If vegetarians eat vegetables, what do humanitarians eat?" -unknown
	0

11-12-2021, 01:07 PM	#11
2LZ Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Volcano, Ca Posts: 7,081	I have far more problems with batteries than fuel, in my fleet. I ended up buying tricklers for each bike. Soooooooooooooooo tired of replacing batteries. __________________ "Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350
	2

11-08-2021, 10:19 PM	#2
braindead0 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Reno, NV Posts: 89	Drain the fuel out of the carb/petcock.. if the tank is steel fill with fuel and stabilizer and yo should be good to go.. if plastic just stabilize.. If you want to go the extra mile, pull spark plug and spray oil into the cylinder and crank it over a few times.. A lot depends on storage, if it's in an area that doesn't have large temperature fluctuations you can get away with a lot less winterizing.
	0

11-09-2021, 05:17 AM	#3
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,870	Always better to drain the float bowls rather than rely on stabilizers because ethanol can still cause corrosion Filling the bikes with AV gas also works if the bike doesn't have a cat. The battery can be preserved by keeping it charged.
	2

11-09-2021, 03:29 PM	#5
ExMxer Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: Earth, USA Posts: 196	Add gas to tank with Stabil …. Ride at least 3-5 miles. Upon cooling, shut off petcock, start bike and idle until it dies. Then open drain on carb and leave open several hours to allow all gas to dry up in bowl. Take out plug, a few drops of oil into cylinder, replace plug. Lube chain, clean filter, lightly coat brake discs with mild lubricant. Prop up on stand of some sort, elevating both wheels if possible, release a few pounds of air from the tires so the rubber can take a rest. If suspension has bleeders, bleed all air off upon placing on stand. Cover, and sleep well……. If liquid cooled, add complete system flush to the list. Also, complete full detail scrubbing before any of the above is started, that way adding parts Santa brought you over the Holidays makes the fun easier due to working on a clean machine ! Come Spring, clean bike, fresh fluids, add fresh gas….Enjoy. My routine for decades, never failed me yet! Enjoy it, take an afternoon to give your girl a nice winters nap. Tuck her in good……
	2

11-09-2021, 08:57 PM	#7
buzz Join Date: Dec 2020 Location: Dayton Pa. Posts: 861	Just start them every month, its good to keep them running. Just like to hear even in winter.
	1