Hawk is here, yay!

[Megadan]

Yep, thats the one

[Megadan]

Well, this can be my therapy for now. Something shiny to look at.

EDIT: Discovered the information on the amazon advertisement is incorrect regarding the main jet type. It uses the Honda style Jets for the PWK 28 carburetor, which is Keihin Jet 99101-393. Lesson learned, don't trust things in print... Ah well, the plus side is, this makes jets cheaper.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by Megadan

My plan is to use Honda sprocket studs.

We've had this issue come up several times over the last decade, and the fix was to also install Honda bushings. IIRC, the XL185 used the same bushings, but I can't swear to it. Be careful with the XR bikes, because some of them used six bushings instead of five, and they might be a different size.

[2LZ]

Glad to hear your friend is ok.
Did one of the studs back out and catch the swingarm? I'm at a loss as to why the rear end kicked out, especially at such a low speed.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

We've had this issue come up several times over the last decade, and the fix was to also install Honda bushings. IIRC, the XL185 used the same bushings, but I can't swear to it. Be careful with the XR bikes, because some of them used six bushings instead of five, and they might be a different size.

I am going to try the studs first. The factory hawk studs don't even sit in the bushing correctly, so if I can find studs that do, that will be the route I take. SL studs have a slightly larger OD on the bushing side so they should be a mild interference fit and require pressing them in. I will look into bushings as well if the studs fail to fix the issue, thanks for the heads up.

Originally Posted by 2LZ

Glad to hear your friend is ok.
Did one of the studs back out and catch the swingarm? I'm at a loss as to why the rear end kicked out, especially at such a low speed.

No, the studs are in the same place. I loctited the nuts to the stud, and the snap ring has done it's job and is also still in place. I can only speculate at a few difference scenarios. Something caused chain bind mixed in with a little panic on his part. He claimed the bike suddenly lurched forward and overpowered his braking pressure, but he never had a chance to pull the clutch in. That is why I am parking the bike and not riding it again until everything is corrected and I can look it over, just in case.

[JerryHawk250]

Megadan, Just curious, On the 2017 model did they correct the chain guide alignment or is it still at a skew?

[Weldangrind]

I suspect that the correct Honda bushing and stud combo is 41241-307-010 (bushing) and 90128-KE2-940 (stud). I wish I could measure them first to be certain.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

Megadan, Just curious, On the 2017 model did they correct the chain guide alignment or is it still at a skew?

Still askew. In the case of mine, it was not only skewed, but installed in such a way that the little nubs that help hold it in place on the swing arm didn't line up and popped out of place.

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I suspect that the correct Honda bushing and stud combo is 41241-307-010 (bushing) and 90128-KE2-940 (stud). I wish I could measure them first to be certain.

I can always order one of each and check them out. I have quite a collection of random NOS Honda parts already, what's a couple more? Thanks for the part numbers!

I got my new brake pedal, left plastic panel, and axle adjuster in. On the upside, the TT250 parts are a dead on match. On the downside, I thought I ordered 2 axle adjusters, but I only ordered one (oops). Oh well, I will have one black one and one silver one. Not the end of the world. I will order a second one... they are less than 5 bucks lol. Until then I can just set a new style with mismatched adjusters.

I updated my sprocket thread with more detailed info, but in relation to the sprocket stud situation, the new studs will work. The only difference is the stud threads are M8 instead of M10, but I trust the strength and quality of the smaller Honda studs than the larger generic chinese made ones.

I am still going to look for a better solution, but at this point I think I am going to order either a TT250 hub, or possibly take the lazy route and order a complete rear wheel. I will check out the Honda bushings/Studs mentioned above first (far cheaper). From what I can tell the JT269 sprockets will work on the TT250 wheel, but require a 5mm spacer to adjust for the sprocket offset of the TT250. I happen to have some M10 5mm thick washers on hand already from previous projects, so that problem is solved. There are other TT250 owners that run the JT without the spacers that seem to have no problems that way as well, so I can check both methods and see what works the best if I do go down this road.

The only issue I have with the TT250 setup is that, while the sprocket does bolt to the hub, It also lacks any sort of cush drive setup like the Hawks sprocket stud/pin system. On such a low powered bike with a long chain, it's probably not really an issue, but I am not the biggest fan of this either.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Still askew. In the case of mine, it was not only skewed, but installed in such a way that the little nubs that help hold it in place on the swing arm didn't line up and popped out of place.

I took mine a cut the nubs off and pop rivet it in place so it lined up.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

I took mine a cut the nubs off and pop rivet it in place so it lined up.

Mine actually aligns perfectly as far as the nubs go, it's just the very end of the guide that is askew. I haven't had many issues with the chain hitting the tire while riding yet so I haven't bothered to correct it. I do plan on getting around to fixing it here soon though for my own peace of mind.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Mine actually aligns perfectly as far as the nubs go, it's just the very end of the guide that is askew. I haven't had any issues with the chain hitting the tire while riding yet so I haven't bothered to correct it. I do plan on getting around to fixing it here soon though for my own peace of mind.

Mine wasn't close to aligning. If the chain slipped off in the one place it did make contact it would push the chain against the tire. Now that it is aligned it has never jumped off and hit the tire again.

[Megadan]

Got the carb boot in. Angles are a dead on match to the stock manifold. This should make installing non flange type carbs a breeze, such as genuine Mikunis that dont tend to have a flange that could still use the stock intake tube, or my oko/pwk.

[Megadan]

So, if you caught my post in my rear sprocket thread, this next part makes more sense. Got my 43 tooth rear sprocket installed and took 2 links out of my 130 link chain to make it 128 links. I installed the TT250 axle adjuster as well to replace my damaged one - yep it works perfectly. The chain is the perfect length now, with the axle sitting almost dead center in the adjuster slots. Its safe to also say that you could run a 126 link chain on these bikes, but that will put the adjusters almost all the way forward with a 17/45 or 17/43 sprocket combination. I am not really a fan of having adjusters maxed in either direction so I chose to stick to 128.

I was still having an issue with my chain rubbing the tire when the wheel was centered, even with the chain guide moved, and removed completely. I also noticed that the chain alignment was just slightly skewed inward as it headed toward the engine. I also noticed uneven wear on the paint of the 45 tooth sprocket on the outside edges of the sprocket teeth indicating a misalignment as well, so I took a note out of another members book and decided to flip the front sprocket around. While a total pain in the rear to tighten the bolts down, it worked brilliantly. My chain is arrow straight front to back with the wheel aligned, and I have enough of a gap that it clears the tires. The only other adjustment I had to make was to grind away about half an inch of the inner lip of the front sprocket cover so I could get it installed. With the chain sitting more outwards, the cover went from a tight fit, to impossible. Not it goes on smoothly.

The only things I have left to do is take the front end apart to inspect everything, install the TT250 brake pedal - also a dead on match to the Hawk unit, and put my new side plastic on. I am still waiting for my new bars to arrive, but the current ones are still functional for now.

The only struggle I am having now is not installing all of my other goodies on this bike. Must...resist...the temptation.

[goat67]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Got the carb boot in. Angles are a dead on match to the stock manifold. This should make installing non flange type carbs a breeze, such as genuine Mikunis that dont tend to have a flange that could still use the stock intake tube, or my oko/pwk.

Got a link for this?

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by goat67

Got a link for this?

Page 5. Post 62

Originally Posted by Megadan

Also, I forgot to link the items.



Intake manifold: http://www.ebay.com/itm/30mm-Carbure...72.m2749.l2649

Also found on Aliexpress. Both ship from China, so the wait really won't be any different. Ebay saved me a dollar lol.