new hawk 250 issues

[thehawk]

Megadan, where did you put your washers to fix the loose sprocket? My sprocket has groves on the one side that the "middle oblong portion" of the bolt fits into. If I put the washers there the bolt wouldn't fit well in the grove. Did you put it on the other side? "the section that has no threads" aka. (nut / threaded area/ sprocket/ wide area of bolt/ WASHER / wheel)

[Megadan]

Thin wave washers were put on the back side of the sprocket. The little lip that sticks out will bend out of the way, but if it bugs you enough you can trim them back to sit in the groove better

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by thehawk

I am thinking that the bearings are good then because they do turn. so on to next order of business while I have the rear tire removed. Someone had mentioned that I should pull the swing arm bolt and grease it with marine grease. Do I just 1.pull out the bolt 2. rub grease over it 3. put it right back in? I do not want to drill a hole in the frame as some have done. do the above sound right? or is this a more difficult task?

I would pull the arm off completely and try to pack some grease inside the pivot point of the arm as much as I can. Then also put some grease on the bolt.

[thehawk]

Thanks, I squirted a bunch into the hole, then greased the bolt and pushed the bolt through the hole. A bunch of grease came out the other end on the bolt threads so it made its way all the way through the chamber. Is there any other points to grease while the bike is in pieces?

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by thehawk

Thanks, I squirted a bunch into the hole, then greased the bolt and pushed the bolt through the hole. A bunch of grease came out the other end on the bolt threads so it made its way all the way through the chamber. Is there any other points to grease while the bike is in pieces?

Depends on your skill level, or at least comfort zone. I would highly recommend greasing the head stock bearings. The factory grease has been aptly described as "hand soap" by somebody else, which is a great anaology for it.

It can't hurt to put a little grease on the rear brake lever pivot point on the frame, but this isn't a super critical thing to do. It will also require new cotter pins for the brake lever and the pin on the master cylinder clevis.

Other than that, a coating of grease on the front and rear axles during assembly is a good idea. Maybe a light coat on the lever pivots for the clutch and brake at the handlebars.

Cleaning and lubricating the throttle and clutch cable comes to mind, but I don't recommend grease for that. I prefer PJ1 cable lube, but take your pick.

[BlackBike]

Grease is a dirty, inconvenient thing to have to deal with on the assembly line with these cheap bikes. Not really a down side for the manufact since they will be split up and wholesaled to death to all corners of the planet be fore some retail consumer discovers the dry steering bearings in the yoak.

As MEGA says, be as proactive as possible. As your well aware, it's your ass on the seat

[thehawk]

Thanks for the advice. By front and rear axle, you mean that bar that goes thought the bearing holes on the tire right? The one that holds the tire to the bike. Also, I keep going back to the wheel bearings, I think I would like to change them out anyways to be safe, but cant am concerned that I am not getting the right part (wrong number, cheap china stuff marked as good stuff on amazon/etc). Was gonna purchase them before as well but then ran into the numbers not matching up exactly (like the nachi above which has the 6302 2rs on it, but also a different number as well). Any thoughts on reliable/trustworthy web sites to order the bearings?

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by thehawk

Thanks for the advice. By front and rear axle, you mean that bar that goes thought the bearing holes on the tire right? The one that holds the tire to the bike. Also, I keep going back to the wheel bearings, I think I would like to change them out anyways to be safe, but cant am concerned that I am not getting the right part (wrong number, cheap china stuff marked as good stuff on amazon/etc). Was gonna purchase them before as well but then ran into the numbers not matching up exactly (like the nachi above which has the 6302 2rs on it, but also a different number as well). Any thoughts on reliable/trustworthy web sites to order the bearings?

I have never seen a tire with bearing holes in it.....ARH

[timcosby]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

I have never seen a tire with bearing holes in it.....ARH

your sooooo bad!

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by thehawk

Thanks for the advice. By front and rear axle, you mean that bar that goes thought the bearing holes on the tire right? The one that holds the tire to the bike. Also, I keep going back to the wheel bearings, I think I would like to change them out anyways to be safe, but cant am concerned that I am not getting the right part (wrong number, cheap china stuff marked as good stuff on amazon/etc). Was gonna purchase them before as well but then ran into the numbers not matching up exactly (like the nachi above which has the 6302 2rs on it, but also a different number as well). Any thoughts on reliable/trustworthy web sites to order the bearings?

You can always get All Balls racing units. They sell them individually.

As far as the Nachi bearings, they just use their own codes to designate certain features I.E. 6302-2NSE is a 6302 bearing with 2 rubber seals. The NSE designation is to identify them as Rubber, contact style seals - the seals make contact with the inner ring surface. This makes them highly dust resistant and water resistant.

I run Nachi bearings on my bike. 6301-2NSE9 C3 front and 6302-2NSE9 C3 rear.

This is the company I ordered mine from, but you can search around for a better price.

Fronts: https://cnc-specialty-store.com/bear...7x12-sealed-c3

Rears: https://cnc-specialty-store.com/bear...2x13-sealed-c3

The previously mentioned All Balls Racing individual bearings.
Front: https://www.allballsracing.com/catal...t/view/id/3764

Rear: https://www.allballsracing.com/catal...t/view/id/3765

The Nachi bearings are going to be unquestionable in terms of quality, but cost a little more. The All Balls Racing bearings are good as well, and a bit cheaper. I run All Balls bearings on my Goldwing and have had good luck with them. So order how you see fit. Just don't forget to order 2 of each.

[thehawk]

Thanks, I ordered the Nachi. Better safe than sorry (^_^).

[thehawk]

Did anyone else notice that the front sprocket is just as loose as the rear one was? I added the washers to the back and now it is tight (thanks megadan). But haven't done anything with the front sprocket yet because it still has a cover over it. I will remove the cover and take a look at the sprocket, maybe I can tighten it down or something. Anyone else have a loose one?

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by thehawk

Did anyone else notice that the front sprocket is just as loose as the rear one was? I added the washers to the back and now it is tight (thanks megadan). But haven't done anything with the front sprocket yet because it still has a cover over it. I will remove the cover and take a look at the sprocket, maybe I can tighten it down or something. Anyone else have a loose one?

The front sprocket will always be a little bit loose by nature. As long as the 2 bolts that secure the locking plate to the sprocket are tight, then I wouldn't worry about it. It's not a bad idea to put a little dab of blue loctite on those two bolts though. I also put a little moly based grease on the shaft splines where the sprocket sits as an extra measure against wear, but this isnt entirely necessary.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by timcosby

your sooooo bad!

What? Do you think I should have added "But I'm always willing to be educated?" ARH

[thehawk]

My new bearings have arrived. Now I am having a lot of difficulties getting the old bearings out of the wheel. Anyone have any tips or tricks for getting them out?