TaoTao ATA-250D Mods & Q&A - Page 7

Darth Racer · 06-12-2018, 06:42 PM

This is the setup I used on my Rhino...

30 pilot
115 main
4th notch down on needle, 2 notches up from bottom. 1 3/4 turns out on the mixture screw.

Mikuni Clone
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0176TA1H4

Pilot Jet
http://jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carbure...-486_pilot.htm

Main Jet
http://jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carbure...arge_round.htm

Don't mix and match OEM and Equivalent jets if you get a size up and down from those numbers for tweaking. There is a variance some times and it will be a little off. Stick with the Mikuni OEM ones is my advice.

anhoard · 06-19-2018, 04:07 PM

Hey everyone! Been off here for a while and decided to pop back on to see how the thread is doing. Glad to see yall are still adding mods and coming up with new items.

Thanks a bunch!

Paul2 · 06-29-2018, 06:47 AM

Morning, tapping you again,,
So I, if you recall, I did the under the seat mod for an air filter as water is an issue where we run.
Once done and tight after starting the unit, it was bogging down as soon as I applied throttle is the issue. It can idle easy enough and running half throttle ok, but when opening it up the unit "bogs down".
On one of them, 150bull, The setup is; the carb, to a rubber 1.25 to 1.5" fitting, to a pvc extension tail piece (11" long), to a pvc 45deg elbow to a cone airfilter under the seat. I needed the 11" piece to get to the seat as the carb sits further away.
It only does this with the pvc extension piece & '45deg elbow & cone filter attached.
It runs fine if I just keep the rubber fitting and the immediate cone filter.
Is there a carb adjustment I missed in the details?
I'm a bit skiddish with carb "tuning" only due to unfamiliarity with playing with these chinease carbs..and them getting easily out of whack excetra..
sorry so long winded..

Darth Racer · 06-29-2018, 05:48 PM

I read on another forum about that issue with the 150cc and going with a longer snorkel. From what I read for that style engine you can just go straight up as long as its not too long. It's a known issue and not something random.

If it was me I would put a air filter stem inside a 4inch pvc tube through an end cap (unglued) so the distance is short and place the air filter at the bottom of the tube ... you can put a U bend on the end to keep the rain out or just route it somewhere it will stay dry.

Not sure what it is exactly but to me seems the vacuum point between the air filter and the carb suffers when it is longer. Doesn't get enough air to run right. Engine doesn't create enough vacuum for the longer tube. Just a guess but think I got it right.

Paul2 · 07-02-2018, 06:52 AM

HMMM, and thanks for the reply.
So I may just put the stock one back on at this point as its higher than just a cone filter to the carb, I've discovered that anything more than 4" from the carb and it starts to choke out at full throttle, hence effecting the vacuum to the carb. I'm lost as to why the stock unit travels more than a foot but doesn't have the same issue.
I'll keep playing, but in the interim will go back to the stock unit until I've come up with a new scenario!!

Darth Racer · 07-02-2018, 07:02 PM

Could be the filter breathes a little more freely then the cone type you are using. I know my Rhino's stock filter was nothing more then a black open plastic sponge.

Kinda surprised no one else replied. Some great knowledge in the ranks here.

Paul2 · 07-03-2018, 10:29 AM

Agreed, It just stumps me as to how the H20 actually gets way up there in the first place as its quite high under the seat and the intake to the black airbox faces downstream so it would take a bit for the unit to get water inside whatsoever.
I may just go one step further on the Bull unit, oh god here we go, now its under my skin,,,.
I may replace the stock air box to original but cut open, the same size as original opening, a hole on top of the cover instead of the back.
stay tuned....

Speckred17 · 07-27-2018, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darth Racer

This is the setup I used on my Rhino...

30 pilot
115 main
4th notch down on needle, 2 notches up from bottom. 1 3/4 turns out on the mixture screw.

Mikuni Clone
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0176TA1H4

Pilot Jet
http://jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carbure...-486_pilot.htm

Main Jet
http://jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carbure...arge_round.htm

Don't mix and match OEM and Equivalent jets if you get a size up and down from those numbers for tweaking. There is a variance some times and it will be a little off. Stick with the Mikuni OEM ones is my advice.

Would any mikuni VM26 with 30mm work? What about this one?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CN36W65/ref=dp_prsubs_2

Darth Racer · 07-27-2018, 05:35 PM

It should be fine.

PANDEMIC · 07-31-2018, 12:41 PM

is there anything else i need for the carb upgrade i have the vm26 the 115jet and 30 pilot and does anyone have pictures or a video of the swap? Thank you also what ngk spark plug do i need?

Darth Racer · 07-31-2018, 01:05 PM

On mine I switched the choke cable lever over with the TaoTao carb. No pics or video.

Watch you don't twist the throttle cable when screwing the slide together.

I just brought my stock plug in to the auto parts store and the cross referenced it to a NGK

PANDEMIC · 07-31-2018, 01:07 PM

also, can anyone tell me if this will fit 37tooth 530 rear sprocket
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ATV-...472578331.html

Mudflap · 07-31-2018, 01:37 PM

Going to have problems getting and keeping it centered on the hub which is 36mm.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PANDEMIC

also, can anyone tell me if this will fit 37tooth 530 rear sprocket
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ATV-...472578331.html

theman4071 · 10-08-2018, 12:14 AM

I think I have something of value here after doing anhoard's intake mod. I copied the design except the cone filter. I just used the filter media provided with the oem filter canister. After completing the very much need modification to prevent a hydrolock from any mud puddle I come across my quad would start normally. If I gave it any gas with the throttle it would bog down and all most stall. I pulled the spark plug and saw a wet sooty end. Rich fuel, so I took off the carb and cut some lines in the tamper bolts on the bottom of the bowl and removed the main jet. Next I heated the brass jet with a propane torch and filled the orific with solder. I took a .64mm drill bit and by hand drilled out the solder and cleaned with B-12 chem. Replaced the tamper bolts with M4 hex caphead screws and put the carb on the bike. Runs like a dream again just had to rejet the main.

Smooth Move · 09-10-2020, 11:48 PM

I'm new to the group , this is exactly the type of info i'm looking for. You guy's are very creative.

06-19-2018, 04:07 PM	#92
anhoard Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Bartlett, TN Posts: 45	Hey everyone! Been off here for a while and decided to pop back on to see how the thread is doing. Glad to see yall are still adding mods and coming up with new items. Thanks a bunch! __________________ Andrew Mine: 2015 TaoTao ATA-250D Camo Son 1: 2015 TaoTao T-Force 125 Camo Son 2: 2015 TaoTao T-Force 125 Red Spiderweb
	1

06-12-2018, 06:42 PM	#91
Darth Racer Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: MD Posts: 558	This is the setup I used on my Rhino... 30 pilot 115 main 4th notch down on needle, 2 notches up from bottom. 1 3/4 turns out on the mixture screw. Mikuni Clone https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0176TA1H4 Pilot Jet http://jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carbure...-486_pilot.htm Main Jet http://jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carbure...arge_round.htm Don't mix and match OEM and Equivalent jets if you get a size up and down from those numbers for tweaking. There is a variance some times and it will be a little off. Stick with the Mikuni OEM ones is my advice.
	0

06-29-2018, 06:47 AM	#93
Paul2 Join Date: Jun 2017 Posts: 81	Morning, tapping you again,, So I, if you recall, I did the under the seat mod for an air filter as water is an issue where we run. Once done and tight after starting the unit, it was bogging down as soon as I applied throttle is the issue. It can idle easy enough and running half throttle ok, but when opening it up the unit "bogs down". On one of them, 150bull, The setup is; the carb, to a rubber 1.25 to 1.5" fitting, to a pvc extension tail piece (11" long), to a pvc 45deg elbow to a cone airfilter under the seat. I needed the 11" piece to get to the seat as the carb sits further away. It only does this with the pvc extension piece & '45deg elbow & cone filter attached. It runs fine if I just keep the rubber fitting and the immediate cone filter. Is there a carb adjustment I missed in the details? I'm a bit skiddish with carb "tuning" only due to unfamiliarity with playing with these chinease carbs..and them getting easily out of whack excetra.. sorry so long winded..
	0

06-29-2018, 05:48 PM	#94
Darth Racer Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: MD Posts: 558	I read on another forum about that issue with the 150cc and going with a longer snorkel. From what I read for that style engine you can just go straight up as long as its not too long. It's a known issue and not something random. If it was me I would put a air filter stem inside a 4inch pvc tube through an end cap (unglued) so the distance is short and place the air filter at the bottom of the tube ... you can put a U bend on the end to keep the rain out or just route it somewhere it will stay dry. Not sure what it is exactly but to me seems the vacuum point between the air filter and the carb suffers when it is longer. Doesn't get enough air to run right. Engine doesn't create enough vacuum for the longer tube. Just a guess but think I got it right.
	0

07-02-2018, 06:52 AM	#95
Paul2 Join Date: Jun 2017 Posts: 81	HMMM, and thanks for the reply. So I may just put the stock one back on at this point as its higher than just a cone filter to the carb, I've discovered that anything more than 4" from the carb and it starts to choke out at full throttle, hence effecting the vacuum to the carb. I'm lost as to why the stock unit travels more than a foot but doesn't have the same issue. I'll keep playing, but in the interim will go back to the stock unit until I've come up with a new scenario!!
	0

07-02-2018, 07:02 PM	#96
Darth Racer Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: MD Posts: 558	Could be the filter breathes a little more freely then the cone type you are using. I know my Rhino's stock filter was nothing more then a black open plastic sponge. Kinda surprised no one else replied. Some great knowledge in the ranks here.
	0

07-03-2018, 10:29 AM	#97
Paul2 Join Date: Jun 2017 Posts: 81	Agreed, It just stumps me as to how the H20 actually gets way up there in the first place as its quite high under the seat and the intake to the black airbox faces downstream so it would take a bit for the unit to get water inside whatsoever. I may just go one step further on the Bull unit, oh god here we go, now its under my skin,,,. I may replace the stock air box to original but cut open, the same size as original opening, a hole on top of the cover instead of the back. stay tuned....
	0

07-27-2018, 05:35 PM	#99
Darth Racer Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: MD Posts: 558	It should be fine.
	0

07-31-2018, 12:41 PM	#100
PANDEMIC Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: WI Posts: 213	is there anything else i need for the carb upgrade i have the vm26 the 115jet and 30 pilot and does anyone have pictures or a video of the swap? Thank you also what ngk spark plug do i need?
	0

07-31-2018, 01:05 PM	#101
Darth Racer Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: MD Posts: 558	On mine I switched the choke cable lever over with the TaoTao carb. No pics or video. Watch you don't twist the throttle cable when screwing the slide together. I just brought my stock plug in to the auto parts store and the cross referenced it to a NGK
	1

07-31-2018, 01:07 PM	#102
PANDEMIC Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: WI Posts: 213	also, can anyone tell me if this will fit 37tooth 530 rear sprocket https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ATV-...472578331.html
	0

09-10-2020, 11:48 PM	#105
Smooth Move Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: New Jersey Posts: 4	I'm new to the group , this is exactly the type of info i'm looking for. You guy's are very creative.
	0