Just took delivery of my new Venom X22R...

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Chrisguga

Are you accessing that by removing the dash cluster? Coming in from underneath? What’s the best route?

I did mine when I had the side panels off. You might be able to reach in from underneath and unplug it from the cluster.

[Chrisguga]

I gave up on it for last night, but you actually unplug a plug from the cluster, splice it, and then plug the plug back in?

I’m debating whether I want to further take apart the front plastics on the bike or save that for when I replace the headlight bulbs in the next week or two.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Chrisguga

I gave up on it for last night, but you actually unplug a plug from the cluster, splice it, and then plug the plug back in?

I’m debating whether I want to further take apart the front plastics on the bike or save that for when I replace the headlight bulbs in the next week or two.

Yes, that's what i did. If i were you i would wait till you do the bulbs. It would be much easier and less stressful. lol

[Chrisguga]

So I’m not sure what I installed incorrectly, but when I first tried to fire the engine, it rev’d to redline without any throttle input and I had to hit the kill switch to shut off the engine.

The throttle feels like there’s no tension when applying throttle, but the cable moves the piece on the carb like it appears it should.

It acts like the throttle is wide open, but I have no idea why.

:edit: Here is the position with the throttle closed and open.

It definitely feels like much less tension when I twist the throttle, but I don’t know why.

[Chrisguga]

I’m going to leave my mistake up here in hopes it helps another newbie working on their carb for the first time.

It turns out I haphazardly put the needle back down in the carb and didn’t line up the slot on the needle cylinder with the tab in the carb. It was holding the throttle wide open as a result.

Here’s a picture of the protrusion down in the carb and the slot in the needle you have to line up with it. Now all is good except that phone charger is apparently draining my battery so I’ll have to recharge it and put a quick connect on one of the connections for the phone charger.

[JerryHawk250]

You won't be the first to make that mistake.
There is a switch to turn off the USB port right next to the port.

[Chrisguga]

Ah, thank you Jerry for the phone holder tip.

Also, for those asking about relatively stock performance, I hit 67 mph on the gps at 8k rpms tucked down out of the wind and I either hit a rev limiter or was at the limit of that 105 jet as it started cutting out and wouldn’t pull past 8k.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Chrisguga

Ah, thank you Jerry for the phone holder tip.

Also, for those asking about relatively stock performance, I hit 67 mph on the gps at 8k rpms tucked down out of the wind and I either hit a rev limiter or was at the limit of that 105 jet as it started cutting out and wouldn’t pull past 8k.

Rev limiter is well pass 8k. Mine will turn 10k . It sounds like it's a tad rich. Go down to the next size you have.

[franque]

Just so I'm clear, did you install the piston backwards? So that it was wide open?

[Chrisguga]

I guess you could say it was backwards. I had it rotated incorrectly so the spring was compressed and the needle was pulled out which effectively applied full throttle.

[JerryHawk250]

Chris,
Do you plan on removing the catalytic converter? That's one thing that really help these bikes breathe better.

[Chrisguga]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

Chris,
Do you plan on removing the catalytic converter? That's one thing that really help these bikes breathe better.

I plan to eventually. I can’t weld, or at least I never have, so I’ll save that project for the winter when I shave and port the head and buy the aftermarket carb, intake, and air filter.

I’d just hate for the bike to be down for a few weeks while I do all of this during good riding weather.

I wonder if I could remove the exhaust and knock the cat out with a pipe cleaner or drain clearing device. Just how sturdy is the cat?

[Chrisguga]

And truthfully, I’m waiting for you to do it so I can have some instruction on removing the head. I’d probably go ahead and knock it out during a week and weekend if I felt confident in the procedure.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Chrisguga

I plan to eventually. I can’t weld, or at least I never have, so I’ll save that project for the winter when I shave and port the head and buy the aftermarket carb, intake, and air filter.

I’d just hate for the bike to be down for a few weeks while I do all of this during good riding weather.

I wonder if I could remove the exhaust and knock the cat out with a pipe cleaner or drain clearing device. Just how sturdy is the cat?

It's pretty tough. You're not going to knock it out. Not the best way to do this but you could always cut it and use a short piece of pipe and clamp it back together. Another option is to take it to a local muffler shop and pay them to weld it back. I've tried looking for an after market header pipe that would work. I would like to change it out to stainless steel. I'm sure i'll run across one eventually.

[Chrisguga]

Yeah, I might take it to a muffler shop. I’m sure that would be a very easy job for them, or for slightly more money I could just buy a decent Harbor a Freight welder and teach myself.

I bought their cheap flux wire welder, but after playing with it, I have very little faith in its ability to create an effective weld.