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Old 03-08-2021, 06:54 PM   #76
Spins   Spins is offline
 
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Mr. Torch outta here!

Good stuff in and Mr. Torch in the drawer.
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Old 03-08-2021, 06:58 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by tknj99 View Post
Same here, no issues with the cotter pins, but that damn shifter bolt, the head snapped off.. i just kept it as is for now as i wont have to worry about it falling off as is and will just drill it out if i ever need to remove the shifter
You might want to get it out and replace the bolt, unless you want to also replace the shift shaft in the future. Loose shifters destroy the shift shaft splines.


 
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Old 03-08-2021, 07:19 PM   #78
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You might want to get it out and replace the bolt, unless you want to also replace the shift shaft in the future. Loose shifters destroy the shift shaft splines.
Thanks for that tip, ill have to look at it closer, but im pretty certain its not loose as it is currently
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Old 03-08-2021, 07:31 PM   #79
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If it can wobble on the splines, the shifter will slowly eat the shaft.


 
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Old 03-08-2021, 07:39 PM   #80
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Front forks Triple clamp

Guys , does anyone know what size these nuts are? Larger than a 19 mm and smaller than my 24mm socket for removing the oil screen.
I was able to loosen one with a crescent wrench. But the other isn’t moving and I don’t want to booger them up.
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Old 03-08-2021, 08:09 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by Spins View Post
I’ve never had an issue with my old ones . I’ve had them out several times working on other peg options.
The pins that came on my foot pegs were literally about as strong as a bread tie, IDK maybe I just got a bad batch.
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Old 03-08-2021, 11:11 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by Spins View Post
Guys , does anyone know what size these nuts are? Larger than a 19 mm and smaller than my 24mm socket for removing the oil screen.
I was able to loosen one with a crescent wrench. But the other isn’t moving and I don’t want to booger them up.
Are you sure? Never owned a Brozz but all of the china engines Ive had were a 24mm like most hondas.

21mm is the most popular metric socket size between 19 and 24.


 
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Old 03-09-2021, 02:31 AM   #83
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It's mostly 22mm. I'm not sure where you're from @Midnyte Ryder, but I'm a mechanic, and I've used my 21mm socket 1 time, on an oil change for a Citroën. 22mm is the standard.

The Asian standard socket sizes are 8-10-12-14-17-19-22-24-27, with European stuff usually being (if not replaced by torx) 8-10-13-15-17-19-22-24-27. A 21 on anything Asian made is an anomaly.


 
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Old 03-09-2021, 02:53 AM   #84
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Originally Posted by franque View Post
It's mostly 22mm. I'm not sure where you're from @Midnyte Ryder, but I'm a mechanic, and I've used my 21mm socket 1 time, on an oil change for a Citroën. 22mm is the standard.

The Asian standard socket sizes are 8-10-12-14-17-19-22-24-27, with European stuff usually being (if not replaced by torx) 8-10-13-15-17-19-22-24-27. A 21 on anything Asian made is an anomaly.
He is thinking of the filter screen cap, which is 24mm. At least I assume since he said "china engines."

The issue is, he didn't read the title of the post, which is asking about, what I assume, is the fork caps. Those are 22mm.

Spins. Did you make sure to loosen the upper clamp on the one that won't budge? Just wanted to double check, as I am guilty for forgetting simple crap like that, and it will make loosening the cap really hard if you did.
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Old 03-09-2021, 09:42 AM   #85
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Wanted to add a quick review for my current gearing.. it was at 17/42 but i felt that it was too neutered in the acceleration department. Since swapping to the 16T front, she is ripping it up now.. great low gear action in the dirt and on the street the power is there when i twist the throttle in any gear..
This translates to about a 1.5 tooth drop in the rear (17/44.5) im very happy with the performance now.. now if she had a 6th gear then it would be perfect, but in my opinion its not worth trying to make it into a highway cruiser when it will be uncomfortable no matter what 7k+ RPM gets old after a while.. just stick to the roads up to 55mphs, live on the back roads and this bike will do everything you ask of it.
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Old 03-09-2021, 10:17 AM   #86
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Originally Posted by tknj99 View Post
Wanted to add a quick review for my current gearing.. it was at 17/42 but i felt that it was too neutered in the acceleration department. Since swapping to the 16T front, she is ripping it up now.. great low gear action in the dirt and on the street the power is there when i twist the throttle in any gear..
This translates to about a 1.5 tooth drop in the rear (17/44.5) im very happy with the performance now.. now if she had a 6th gear then it would be perfect, but in my opinion its not worth trying to make it into a highway cruiser when it will be uncomfortable no matter what 7k+ RPM gets old after a while.. just stick to the roads up to 55mphs, live on the back roads and this bike will do everything you ask of it.
Nice, I’ve always found my bike would just jug along (especially in 2nd gear)in the slow stuff. I rarely have to down shift into 1st. It just pulls. Now you’ve got me thinking. Dang another mod to try out
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Old 03-09-2021, 10:24 AM   #87
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Originally Posted by Megadan View Post
He is thinking of the filter screen cap, which is 24mm. At least I assume since he said "china engines."

The issue is, he didn't read the title of the post, which is asking about, what I assume, is the fork caps. Those are 22mm.

Spins. Did you make sure to loosen the upper clamp on the one that won't budge? Just wanted to double check, as I am guilty for forgetting simple crap like that, and it will make loosening the cap really hard if you did.
Thanks Megadan,
I did pull another Crescent wrench out of the tool box, one from this century which had mm marks on it. Figured it out late last night as my brain wouldn’t stop thinking about it, but glad to have info.
I didn’t loosen the upper clamps. Thanks again! This is my first time ever removing these on a bike , dido for the goose neck. I’m trying to go slow as this is my buds bike.
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Old 03-09-2021, 11:04 AM   #88
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Just a tip, if you can, get the right sized sockets for the job, the fork caps tend to deform without the even pressure of a 6-point socket, even if using a fixed size open ended wrench, or a 12-point socket, with a crescent wrench tending to be the worst offender. I've done enough forks that I've seen it before (probably even done it before, but who remembers?) , and it just makes it harder to take the forks apart the next time.


 
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Old 03-09-2021, 11:43 AM   #89
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Originally Posted by franque View Post
Just a tip, if you can, get the right sized sockets for the job, the fork caps tend to deform without the even pressure of a 6-point socket, even if using a fixed size open ended wrench, or a 12-point socket, with a crescent wrench tending to be the worst offender. I've done enough forks that I've seen it before (probably even done it before, but who remembers?) , and it just makes it harder to take the forks apart the next time.
Thanks, yeah I’m planning on getting a 6 point 22mm socket for the job. Using the correct tool makes every job easier! I had a few minutes to work on the bike last night and I didn’t want to waste it. I loosen the one side and called it quits. But like Megadan mentioned I didn’t loosen the upper clamps. Hopefully tonight will I’ll be able to remove the forks and grease the goose neck bearing and drain the fork oil. Going out of town for work and have to shelf the project for a few days
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Old 03-09-2021, 02:23 PM   #90
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Nice, I’ve always found my bike would just jug along (especially in 2nd gear)in the slow stuff. I rarely have to down shift into 1st. It just pulls. Now you’ve got me thinking. Dang another mod to try out
Yea, every performance mod boosted the performance incrementally when mated to the stock 17/46 gearing and then when i geared down to 42T rear, it effectively took that extra oomph away, and now its back
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