new guy needs some advice - Page 6

SpudRider · 01-19-2010, 11:59 AM

Good for you, Baron! It is very wise to give the local businessman an opportunity to lower his price, and get your business.

Spud

Baron · 01-19-2010, 12:02 PM

Does anyone know of a site, or know themselves how to figure out what make and model atv I have using the Vin #? That info would really help me out with this 150. Parts, manual, etc...
The VIN # is LZXSCKL2X58050026
I found a site that told me what each digit is suppose to stand for, but all I can figure out is that it's a 2005. The first digit is suppose to be the country of origin "L" what's that stand for?
Anyone know?

waynev · 01-19-2010, 12:20 PM

Wow, that was easy http://www.analogx.com/cgi-bin/cgivi...&Submit=Decode

Taken from here http://www.atv-411.com/atv-vin-decoder.html at the bottom of the page under "Universal VIN decode "

FastDoc · 01-19-2010, 12:38 PM

The 'L' stands for Last Communist Empire.

Baron · 01-19-2010, 01:43 PM

Thanks Wayne.
Unfortunatley I have a 2005 unknown, unknown from china. Hopefully most of the "Chinese ATV" parts you find on ebay will fit it.

Weldangrind · 01-19-2010, 11:46 PM

Don't be too concerned about the make of the ATV, Baron. It's almost identical to the 150 that my daughter rides, and several of us can guide you on the maintenance of it.

FWIW, the engine is a GY6 (apologies if you already knew that).

Baron · 01-20-2010, 08:24 AM

Did not know that. Thanks.

Weldangrind · 01-20-2010, 12:04 PM

On that note then, the GY6 is a terrific engine (IMHO), and it's ideal for a new rider. The GY6 was first used on the Honda Elite scooters in the eighties. They use a dry centrifugal clutch, meaning that there's a belt under the left side engine cover, similar to a snowmobile in concept. The centrifugal clutch winds up, tightens the belt and transfers the power to the gearbox at the rear.

The gearbox is filled with gear oil, and as such must have sufficient quantity. If you look to the rear of the left side cover, you'll see a fill plug and you'll find a drain plug underneath. I use Castrol Syntec 75W90 in my daughter's quad. Syntec has a nice nozzle on top that makes filling easy. The stuff that came out of our quad was thick like molasses, and it smelled like wood preservative. 8O

Reveeen feels that the electric choke on a 150 can be problematic, so perhaps that's part of your issue. Entire replacment GY6 carbs (choke included) can be had for cheap online, and they're handy to have around. Since the quad will start for you on starter fluid, everything other than fuel delivery is likely ok.

I'm guessing that Reveeen will chime in soon.

Reveeen · 01-20-2010, 04:07 PM

Well ok.........

There is a vacuum port on the intake manifold, left side, just behind the stud/nut:

http://www.partsforscooters.com/Inta...9&category=360

On the right side of the carb, there is a vacuum hose that comes off the carb, and runs into a "T", one side of that "T" hooks to the intake manifold, the other side hooks to either a vacuum operated fuel pump, or a petcock, or if you have neither it would be plugged.

http://www.discountscooterparts.com/386.htm

(where the vacuum line hooks to the carb is directly opposite the electric choke seen in this pic, and assists the electric choke)
Looking again at this pic, there is a vacuum line that runs just ahead of the electric choke unit from the throttle area to the vacuum diaphragm, this is necessary.

Better carb pics here:
http://www.ioffer.com/i/KF-GY6-150cc...51?source=eisi

1st pic shows the destination of the vacuum line.
2nd shows the "T" I spoke about
3rd shows the electric choke, the "necessary" vacuum line ahead of the electric choke, and the line coming off of the "T" that you would hook to the intake manifold, the fuel inlet is clear: below the electric choke towards the rear.
4th is the throttle side again (like #1) this time with the vacuum line removed

Intake manifolds do age crack causing vacuum leaks.

Between the intake manifold, and the head, there is a plastic isolator block:

http://www.partsforscooters.com/164-...9&category=360

If the intake manifold has been over tightened (in the past), or if heat just "got it", these have been known to crack, causing a fairly major vacuum leak.

Baron · 01-21-2010, 07:56 AM

This is probably a really stupid question but please keep in mind I've never owned an atv before. I decided to do some more work on the 150 and since all signs seem to say it's not getting fuel I decided to clean the carb again, check the lines and tank. I drained the tank and the fuel was clean, but there seems to be a bearing (or something like one) rolling around in the tank.
Is that normal? If not how do I get it out? I can't seem to get it out.

Weldangrind · 01-21-2010, 10:56 AM

Whatever it is, it likely doesn't belong there (and no, that's not a stupid question). Please feel free to bring your questions, no matter how basic they might seem. There could be someone else reading the thread that will benefit from the exchange of info (gotta love the internet).

My guess is that there is some welding slag rolling around in the tank. I bet that it could be removed if you work at it enough. You should be able to remove the fuel valve from the tank to make that easier.

That said, if your fuel valve has a reserve option like ours does, the slag won't do any harm.

FastDoc · 01-21-2010, 12:48 PM

Try a magnet on a stick.

FLASHLIGHTBOY · 01-23-2010, 07:34 PM

What you are hearing is the ball bearing that goes inot the fuel cap.. when you tip the unit over.. it plugs off the air hole that lets the air into the tank and causees the fuel to flow to the carb.. take a look and yours will be gone unless someone else loose it or it is from another cap.. .. a magnet will probadly get it out

Baron · 01-28-2010, 09:58 AM

ok, the magnet worked. It turned out to be two small screws. I'm glad I got them out.
I also removed the Carb again. I'm going to clean it again and post pictures of it here (hopefully tonight) so you guys can let me know if anything seems wrong.
Problem is some of the screws on the carb are stripped. I'm not sure how I'm going to get them off. Any suggestions?

katoranger · 01-28-2010, 10:39 AM

I would recommend utilizing a new carb. Might be time/money better spent. I believe its a gy6 style right?

Otherwise one of my favorite tools is an impact screwdriver available at most parts/hardware stores. $15-20.

It looks like a big screwdriver. All metal with a few different sized bits. You tap/hit one end with a hammer and applies a downward jolt/twist. Works great on old hondas with lots of phillips head that like to strip.

http://www.vapnapa.com/bk7759059.html

Allen

01-19-2010, 11:59 AM	#76
SpudRider Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Idaho Posts: 25,054	Good for you, Baron! It is very wise to give the local businessman an opportunity to lower his price, and get your business. Spud __________________ Spud "Never argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level, and beat you with experience." Mark Twain 2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3) 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200) 2005 Honda XR650L 2004 Honda CRF250X 1998 Kawasaki KDX220 Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894
	0

01-19-2010, 12:38 PM	#79
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	The 'L' stands for Last Communist Empire. __________________ Happy to serve.
	0

01-19-2010, 11:46 PM	#81
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Don't be too concerned about the make of the ATV, Baron. It's almost identical to the 150 that my daughter rides, and several of us can guide you on the maintenance of it. FWIW, the engine is a GY6 (apologies if you already knew that). __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

01-20-2010, 12:04 PM	#83
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	On that note then, the GY6 is a terrific engine (IMHO), and it's ideal for a new rider. The GY6 was first used on the Honda Elite scooters in the eighties. They use a dry centrifugal clutch, meaning that there's a belt under the left side engine cover, similar to a snowmobile in concept. The centrifugal clutch winds up, tightens the belt and transfers the power to the gearbox at the rear. The gearbox is filled with gear oil, and as such must have sufficient quantity. If you look to the rear of the left side cover, you'll see a fill plug and you'll find a drain plug underneath. I use Castrol Syntec 75W90 in my daughter's quad. Syntec has a nice nozzle on top that makes filling easy. The stuff that came out of our quad was thick like molasses, and it smelled like wood preservative. 8O Reveeen feels that the electric choke on a 150 can be problematic, so perhaps that's part of your issue. Entire replacment GY6 carbs (choke included) can be had for cheap online, and they're handy to have around. Since the quad will start for you on starter fluid, everything other than fuel delivery is likely ok. I'm guessing that Reveeen will chime in soon. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

01-21-2010, 10:56 AM	#86
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Whatever it is, it likely doesn't belong there (and no, that's not a stupid question). Please feel free to bring your questions, no matter how basic they might seem. There could be someone else reading the thread that will benefit from the exchange of info (gotta love the internet). My guess is that there is some welding slag rolling around in the tank. I bet that it could be removed if you work at it enough. You should be able to remove the fuel valve from the tank to make that easier. That said, if your fuel valve has a reserve option like ours does, the slag won't do any harm. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

01-19-2010, 12:02 PM	#77
Baron Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: FL Posts: 39	Does anyone know of a site, or know themselves how to figure out what make and model atv I have using the Vin #? That info would really help me out with this 150. Parts, manual, etc... The VIN # is LZXSCKL2X58050026 I found a site that told me what each digit is suppose to stand for, but all I can figure out is that it's a 2005. The first digit is suppose to be the country of origin "L" what's that stand for? Anyone know?
	0

01-19-2010, 12:20 PM	#78
waynev Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: London, Ontario Posts: 1,097	Wow, that was easy http://www.analogx.com/cgi-bin/cgivi...&Submit=Decode Taken from here http://www.atv-411.com/atv-vin-decoder.html at the bottom of the page under "Universal VIN decode "
	0

01-19-2010, 01:43 PM	#80
Baron Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: FL Posts: 39	Thanks Wayne. Unfortunatley I have a 2005 unknown, unknown from china. Hopefully most of the "Chinese ATV" parts you find on ebay will fit it.
	0

01-20-2010, 08:24 AM	#82
Baron Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: FL Posts: 39	Did not know that. Thanks.
	0

01-20-2010, 04:07 PM	#84
Reveeen Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: orbital platform Posts: 741	Well ok......... There is a vacuum port on the intake manifold, left side, just behind the stud/nut: http://www.partsforscooters.com/Inta...9&category=360 On the right side of the carb, there is a vacuum hose that comes off the carb, and runs into a "T", one side of that "T" hooks to the intake manifold, the other side hooks to either a vacuum operated fuel pump, or a petcock, or if you have neither it would be plugged. http://www.discountscooterparts.com/386.htm (where the vacuum line hooks to the carb is directly opposite the electric choke seen in this pic, and assists the electric choke) Looking again at this pic, there is a vacuum line that runs just ahead of the electric choke unit from the throttle area to the vacuum diaphragm, this is necessary. Better carb pics here: http://www.ioffer.com/i/KF-GY6-150cc...51?source=eisi 1st pic shows the destination of the vacuum line. 2nd shows the "T" I spoke about 3rd shows the electric choke, the "necessary" vacuum line ahead of the electric choke, and the line coming off of the "T" that you would hook to the intake manifold, the fuel inlet is clear: below the electric choke towards the rear. 4th is the throttle side again (like #1) this time with the vacuum line removed Intake manifolds do age crack causing vacuum leaks. Between the intake manifold, and the head, there is a plastic isolator block: http://www.partsforscooters.com/164-...9&category=360 If the intake manifold has been over tightened (in the past), or if heat just "got it", these have been known to crack, causing a fairly major vacuum leak.
	0

01-21-2010, 07:56 AM	#85
Baron Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: FL Posts: 39	This is probably a really stupid question but please keep in mind I've never owned an atv before. I decided to do some more work on the 150 and since all signs seem to say it's not getting fuel I decided to clean the carb again, check the lines and tank. I drained the tank and the fuel was clean, but there seems to be a bearing (or something like one) rolling around in the tank. Is that normal? If not how do I get it out? I can't seem to get it out.
	0

01-21-2010, 12:48 PM	#87
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	Try a magnet on a stick. __________________ Happy to serve.
	0

01-23-2010, 07:34 PM	#88
FLASHLIGHTBOY Join Date: May 2009 Location: SASKATOON Posts: 1,161	STUFF IN THE TANK What you are hearing is the ball bearing that goes inot the fuel cap.. when you tip the unit over.. it plugs off the air hole that lets the air into the tank and causees the fuel to flow to the carb.. take a look and yours will be gone unless someone else loose it or it is from another cap.. .. a magnet will probadly get it out
	0

01-28-2010, 09:58 AM	#89
Baron Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: FL Posts: 39	ok, the magnet worked. It turned out to be two small screws. I'm glad I got them out. I also removed the Carb again. I'm going to clean it again and post pictures of it here (hopefully tonight) so you guys can let me know if anything seems wrong. Problem is some of the screws on the carb are stripped. I'm not sure how I'm going to get them off. Any suggestions?
	0

01-28-2010, 10:39 AM	#90
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	I would recommend utilizing a new carb. Might be time/money better spent. I believe its a gy6 style right? Otherwise one of my favorite tools is an impact screwdriver available at most parts/hardware stores. $15-20. It looks like a big screwdriver. All metal with a few different sized bits. You tap/hit one end with a hammer and applies a downward jolt/twist. Works great on old hondas with lots of phillips head that like to strip. http://www.vapnapa.com/bk7759059.html Allen __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0