06-08-2017, 09:30 PM | #826 | |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
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06-08-2017, 10:05 PM | #827 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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06-08-2017, 10:12 PM | #828 | |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,100
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I am only asking because with the 30 pilot and needle set in the middle slot with my 110 main, my bike bone stock on it's first start and ride ran beautifully. I am also at 800ft elevation, so obviously that's a factor.
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06-08-2017, 11:01 PM | #829 |
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 19
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Didn't swap the pilot jet, needle clip is in the stock position/ all the way down, I guess is what it is(didn't make any adjustments), not really any free play in the throttle
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Nick in Greensboro, NC 2016 Red Hawk People have more FUN than anybody else!!! |
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06-09-2017, 12:58 AM | #830 |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,100
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Adjust the throttle free play so that you have some, that will most likely fix the idle issue - or at least allow you to use the idle adjustment screw properly so that it actually works. No free play = throttle being held open.
The stock pilot jet on the Mikuni clones tends to be a #20, which most people have found to be too small. Some have upped to a 27.5 with success, others a 30. I would do that next and test ride it to see if that light/part throttle condition improves. Usually a stumble such as you describe is caused by being a bit too lean, and the pilot jet has the biggest impact in this area. The reason it pulls strong when accelerating is because you are opening up the needle valve more and adding fuel. Leave the needle at the lowest position up to that point. If you are still lean, then look at upping the pilot one more size. If it's a bit rich, move the clip on the needle to the middle position, or at least one step up from the bottom. As far as I know, up to this point, nobody has had to increase the needle jet size itself, so you should be able to dial it in with what you already have on hand (minus the pilot obviously) Dialing in a carb can be a bit tedious at first, but it is always best to do it one step at a time. Pilot Jet is a VM28/486 - found here (also on ebay, and other websites) http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_car...-486_pilot.htm
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06-09-2017, 07:39 AM | #831 |
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: connecticut
Posts: 980
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My hawk runs great with a 110. I have a stock pilot 20 so I make up for it with the clip being at the most rich line (the highest point) and the screw out 2 turns. I have some fatter pilots to play with just no time.
I think if you have stock airbox and stock exhaust a 110 is enough as long as you have a fatter pilot, say a 25. Im no carb tuning guru so this is just my experience. PS I'm 200ft above sea level. |
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06-09-2017, 09:24 AM | #832 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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06-10-2017, 12:46 PM | #833 |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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Grief, Agony, and Despair.
Yes, bike fans, you will have plenty of the title to this little epistle with your throttle and clutch response if you do not make sure that those cables do not run in free, easy sweeps, with no kinks. Carbs that won't idle get blamed for cable problems. Likewise clutches that slip or transmissions that grind are most often caused by cable problems. And checking things with the front wheel pointing straight ahead is not enough. Check with the handlebars in every position, from lock to lock. Then you will be a happier rider...ARH
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06-12-2017, 03:45 PM | #834 |
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 19
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Thanks everyone for your help and input, but I am afraid it boiled down to the fact that I got a bad carb. I tried every possible adjustment with no luck. It didn't matter what I did, nothing changed the performance of the carb. It didn't come with a needle keeper from the onset, but I thought using the old one would be fine. Either way, they are going to refund my money. I will try again soon.
Thanks Again China Riders!!!
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Nick in Greensboro, NC 2016 Red Hawk People have more FUN than anybody else!!! |
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06-12-2017, 08:57 PM | #835 |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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Oil Cleaners
The so-called oil filter that everyone talks about is only half of the story. That screen is designed to filter out big chunks to keep them out of the oil pump. Think: "Designed to filter out rocks, and small, low flying birds" and you'll get the idea. The filter that seperates out the little bits of metal going through the engine and transmission is the centrifigal oil cleaner behind the right side outer engine case, next to the clutch. You should do this job at 1000 miles, and once a year there after...ARH
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06-13-2017, 05:11 AM | #836 |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,100
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Centrifugal oil filters are quite effective. I was considering cleaning mine out at 500 miles, and then again at 1000. It may seem excessive, but as hard as I am pushing this motor and plan to push it (dyno time) I would prefer to be cautiously excessive.
For this job, would I mainly need the main clutch cover gasket, correct? Or are there other gaskets/o-rings I should consider as well when doing this job?
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06-13-2017, 06:54 AM | #837 | |
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Twin Cities MN
Posts: 525
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2016 Brozz |
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06-13-2017, 07:56 AM | #838 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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Last edited by Ariel Red Hunter; 06-13-2017 at 07:58 AM. Reason: A miss spell |
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06-13-2017, 08:00 AM | #839 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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06-13-2017, 03:11 PM | #840 |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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Spokes!!!
OK, all of you guys who have bought this years crop of Hawks, enforcers, Magicians, or what ever, keep after those spokes! Go to a bike shop and buy a little spoke wrench. The smarter ones of you will take a little piece of plastic and whittle on it until it will go over the spoke flats, AND you will not try to tighten the spokes with it. Then when you go to the shop, you will be able to see if the one they want to sell you will fit. Tighten them all evenly to any where from "C" below middle "C" up to middle "C". If you don't know what middle "C" sounds like, it sounds like middle "C" on a piano. I "ping" the spokes. Works like a charm. When you start checking them, you can "ping" them all the way around. If they need tightening, start at the one by the valve stem, and tighten every third one. You will do 12 spokes, three times around. 3 times 12 is 36. That just so happens to be the number of spokes in these wheels....ARH
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