Templar X 250

[Texas Pete]

Quick Question about parts familiarization.


Since I had to remove the fuel tank and gain access to the carburetor and air intake manifold I took the opportunity to take some photos of the frame.


I also never had taken a choke cable linkage off a carb body before of the type I saw on the Templar X 250 carburetor so I ended up being one of those guys that took the cable off the other end at the left grip and left it all attached and fished it out with the carburetor itself. One day I'll figure out how they go out and in of the carb body.


Left and Right pictures of the frame. I can tell the welds are definitely NOT robotic. The welds are good but not the best welds. Anyone who buys one of these would be very happy with the weld if they are similar to mine.


Looking at the right hand side of the frame I am just counting wires and guessing.



That left hand side cylinder object, to me that looks like the starter solenoid. And on the right of that the square looking think looks like the rectifier. None of this really matches the wire count in the Wiring Diagram on page 68 of the manual. Zooming in I see only 4 wires on the square thing but it has a yellow wire, maybe that's the 3 yellow lines coming out the the rectifier on page 68 in the owners manual?


Speaking of which does anyone have a better quality diagram file on their computer? The printing in the manual is pretty poor and blurry.




Moving over the left side there is a big boxy thing covered in two piece rubber trying its best to look sexy. My guess is this is the CDI Unit. Correct me if I am wrong.







Also on the left but not in the picture I uploaded in this post right under the fuel tank is a connector that is just hanging in the air. I take it this is a generic wiring harness for this frame being used and other bikes using the frame but maybe with fuel senders in their fuel tanks might use this connector?

[Thumper]

Aaahh! familiar components. Nice pics.

The cylindrical thing in the top photo is your coil. It has the number 06140009 on it. The device on the right in the same photo is your voltage regulator/rectifier, as you suspected. Nice pile of charcoal behind that, by the way

In the second pic, the device hidden inside the rubber sheath with the zip tie is your starter solenoid.


But I am going on experience, not the diagram. You will find the CDI unit under the right plastic panel, by the battery tray.

Oh, and there is one connector with no mate. My assumption is that this is a fuel sender connector from the instrument panel. But this fuel tank has no sender. No, it isn't a generic wiring harness... just a rogue connector from the instrument panel/display. Maybe that is the mysterious wires you mentioned. No worries. You have reserve!

nuf said

[Texas Pete]

Not sure if this came up before. In the search for torque specifications I found a single PDF document on the zummav russian web site for an english booklet for the A7NC model.


While this is not our K7-CB250 it does have one thing our user manual is completely lacking. Torque specifications. Although as a WARNING: THE DRIVE CHAIN ADJUSTMENT (P.57) IN K7-CB250 IS MUCH LOWER FT.LB TORQUE AT 65 PRINTED IN BOLD. But the rest of our manual is completely missing torque specifications for bolts on the rest of the bike and does not contain even the engine bolt torque section in the A7NC manual.


If someone wants to look at these and compare with what they have done and/or comment, feel free.


Link to the Russian manual with torque specifications:
https://zuumav.ru/wp-content/uploads...2018.03.05.pdf


EDIT: (P.47) in A7NC lists 85 in chain adjustment page for rear axel bolt torque while (P.57) in A7NC lists 90 in table for rear axel bolt torque. So take that into account with these manuals.


EDIT2: I received my Bill of Sale and MCO last night from powersportsmax and first thing I checked was MCO Description field, all it says is "Motorcycle", second thing was VIN# field, and that matches the engraving on my bike. Looks like I'm all good with the paperwork.

[Texas Pete]

I went ahead and created a PDF document of torque specifications.


I have sorted the A7NC torque specifications alphabetically to make it easier to read.


I have replaced the Axle nut, rear torque rating from the A7NC specification to match the K7-CB250 booklet that lists it at 65 ft.lbs.


Attached:
Alphabetical Torque Specifications.zip

[DR@G0NR1DR]

Originally Posted by Texas Pete

Quick Question about parts familiarization.


Since I had to remove the fuel tank and gain access to the carburetor and air intake manifold I took the opportunity to take some photos of the frame.


I also never had taken a choke cable linkage off a carb body before of the type I saw on the Templar X 250 carburetor so I ended up being one of those guys that took the cable off the other end at the left grip and left it all attached and fished it out with the carburetor itself. One day I'll figure out how they go out and in of the carb body.


Left and Right pictures of the frame. I can tell the welds are definitely NOT robotic. The welds are good but not the best welds. Anyone who buys one of these would be very happy with the weld if they are similar to mine.


Looking at the right hand side of the frame I am just counting wires and guessing.



That left hand side cylinder object, to me that looks like the starter solenoid. And on the right of that the square looking think looks like the rectifier. None of this really matches the wire count in the Wiring Diagram on page 68 of the manual. Zooming in I see only 4 wires on the square thing but it has a yellow wire, maybe that's the 3 yellow lines coming out the the rectifier on page 68 in the owners manual?


Speaking of which does anyone have a better quality diagram file on their computer? The printing in the manual is pretty poor and blurry.

Attachment 27827


Moving over the left side there is a big boxy thing covered in two piece rubber trying its best to look sexy. My guess is this is the CDI Unit. Correct me if I am wrong.


Attachment 27828




Also on the left but not in the picture I uploaded in this post right under the fuel tank is a connector that is just hanging in the air. I take it this is a generic wiring harness for this frame being used and other bikes using the frame but maybe with fuel senders in their fuel tanks might use this connector?

The people at Moto Pro on Amazon told me the extra wiring not connected was for an alarm that is not used on my 2022 250 Templar M.

[Zapkin]

Originally Posted by Huck369

I'll also note, it has mounting points for rear pegs, but does not come with the Pegs.

Any idea where I could get pegs for this baby if I decide to buy one? I have a couple of grandkids I'd like to ride around the yard on it.

[Texas Pete]

I can only speak to the latest imported batch that I bought mine from.

[Zapkin]

I feel like someone should buy the orange model of this and then buy a bunch of orange KTM stickers from amazon.

something like these

https://www.amazon.com/BRAND-Corpora...ps%2C79&sr=8-1

then slap them all over it!

[Texas Pete]

I decided to measure the Rim Lock Bolt, Rim Lock Nut just because no one else has. You can get rim lock caps plastic or rubber to go in the holes if you choose to remove them for wheel balancing for higher speed road traveling.


First of all a handy PDF table so you can easily lookup and covert 64ths of an inch to the metric equivalent.


64UnitConversionTable.zip


Rim Lock Bolt, thread width.





Rim Lock Nut, flat to flat.





It's hard to read at an angle so here is a close up of the calipers for use with the PDF table.





Just for sanity check, its a hair under 36/64ths. PDF says 36.0 64ths of an inch is 14.2875 mm. I used a 14mm metric wrench and it fit the nut as the tool needed to be used.

[Texas Pete]

Valve Stem Measurements


Valve Stem Bolt





Valve Stem Nut

[Texas Pete]

These rear wheel measurements will come in handy for when I pick new tires.


Tire Size



Max Knobby Width of factory tire with clearance for this bike




Rim Code

[Texas Pete]

And the front tire


Tire Size





Max Knobby Width of factory tire with clearance for this bike





Rim Code

[Texas Pete]

I feel like a proud father, ready to introduce to the world my new Air Pilot adjustment screw. Hidden with an aluminum plug on the air side of the carb, it has to go!!!


Step one, measure screw and select drill bit the size of screw body, not the threads!





Step two, insert screw. I used a small adjustable wrench and a small lightweight hobby hammer to tappity tap tap from underneath the wrench.





Step three, pass out the cigars, a new baby Air Pilot adjustement screw!





EDIT: Turned the screw in all the way. Mine seemed to be set 1 1/4 turns out from bottoming out.

[Texas Pete]

Time to change my carb jets.


Pilot Jet #40 removed.
Pilot Jet #42 installed.


Main Jet #120 removed.
Main Jet #125 installed.


Now that covers idle to 1/4 throttle and the upper quarter to third of throtle to full open. Time to richen up the main throttle positions inbetween those extremes.


Needle is non-adjustable. This is the thickenss of the top of the needle permanantly affixed washer.





Now add a nitrile o-ring.





Not bad, just a hair thicker than the original, just a hair over 1mm additional lift on the needle to richen it up.










I used the smallest washer in the box, top left corner.





And this is the box label.





EDIT: As a starting position, I set my newly accessable Air Pilot screw out 2 turns and will tune from there after reinstalling the carburetor in the bike. 2 for sea level, 2 1/2 turns for elevation seems to be a decent starting position when not knowing.

[Texas Pete]

Mirror replacement pondering deleted.


I got a long straight edge and lined them up with the mirror posts and made sure they were running along the same parallel line. Mine were drifting inwards reducing the overall length. I squeezed a tiny bit more mirror extension in and now I have 2/3 mirror for whats behind me and reduced my body blockage down to 1/3 of the inner mirror portion.