What Did You Do to Your RX3 Today? - Page 53

NzBrakelathes · 10-18-2018, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by calvarez

I'm going to weld up a folding "stick" with pads on the ends to put between the swingarm and ground. I'll make up a way to hang them on the top case lid, or maybe under the seat.

I'm not sure it's better than nothing, it *may* reduce ground clearance a bit, maybe not, beyond just the mount points. And right now it's interfering with sidestand use, though that may just require re-learning.

CSC do sell the L brackets they are Okish but WONKY - I have some still but plan not to use them. (I can also supply)

sqwert · 10-18-2018, 10:37 PM

L brackets for what purpose?

I have CSC's initial design center stand. In the shop I hoist the front by the handlebar with an engine hoist, a come-a-long, a couple tiedown straps, a wrecker, or whatever else is handy. On the road I ask a couple sturdy looking young men to drag the bike backwards by the luggage rack while I stand on the center stand's miniscule foot pin. If I want to work with the rear wheel I have a furring strip with a V cut on one end to slide under the swingarm. Either way is easy, and the stand is fairly secure under the bike.

NzBrakelathes · 10-19-2018, 03:30 AM

https://store.cscmotorcycles.com/2-P...p/csc-1003.htm

These normally come free with the bike, mobile type make do stands incase you get a flat tyre or other small tasks

Working_ZS · 10-19-2018, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sqwert

L brackets for what purpose?

I have CSC's initial design center stand. In the shop I hoist the front by the handlebar with an engine hoist, a come-a-long, a couple tiedown straps, a wrecker, or whatever else is handy. On the road I ask a couple sturdy looking young men to drag the bike backwards by the luggage rack while I stand on the center stand's miniscule foot pin. If I want to work with the rear wheel I have a furring strip with a V cut on one end to slide under the swingarm. Either way is easy, and the stand is fairly secure under the bike.

I believe NZ is referring to the first, two piece center stand that CSC offered for the RX3. They are the ones shown in his link in post #788. Interesting that they include them with the bike in China, though I still prefer the newer one piece design. Looking at them, I don't think it would be too hard to weld them together via a crossmember and add a foot for deployment. Then again, by the time you do that you'll have just as much invested in parts and labor as you would if you had just bought the new design center stand. If you can wait, CSC discounts the center stand (normally priced at $130 US) regularly throughout the year. So for those interested in getting one, be patient and you should be able to save some money.

calvarez · 10-19-2018, 01:13 PM

Yeah those brackets looked scary just in the photos. And now knowing the weight distribution...doubly scary.

Also I'm not blaming anyone, it just is what it is. I'm commenting for others to know the details if they are considering the stand. If you want it for home maintenance, don't do it. If you really do need to do on-road maintenance, there's no choice.

fjmartin · 10-19-2018, 02:03 PM

So, something that could help folks get their bikes up on the centerstand and can easily be made at home is a mini ramp. Toss it on the ground and ride the back wheel up on it and then it's super easy to get the bike on the stand since it's higher up. I do it standing next to the bike in first gear. I made one that is just for my garage and I made another compact one that I take on long trips, like when I went to Alaska. Another field repair trick is to ride up on a dirt pile or rock or something with the back wheel then engage the center-stand. I came up with this as I'm a little dude and after lowering my F800GSA that made it impossible to get on the centerstand. It was even super hard with two people. Now it's easy peasy!!!

The garage version is made from stacked 2x10s. It's the white one. The piece of doweling is the wheel stop so I don't accidentally ride it off the ramp. Once I bump the stop I kill the engine, hold in the clutch and engage the center stand.

The travel version is a 2x4. I painted (black) it to protect it from the weather when traveling and on one side I glued on bubble wrap to keep it from messing up my luggage when strapped on. There is a stainless/rubber cable tie down on top that works as the wheel stop and I took some steel plates that have holes in them used for things like fencing and use them to swing out to make feet to stabilize it as the narrowness of the 2x4 made it tippy and would sometimes fall over when rolling up on it. They are attached with a wood screw.

sqwert · 10-19-2018, 10:18 PM

Mounted a trailer light kit under the and beside the top box, then wired the new lights through an electronic gadget that makes the turn signal circuits work as brake lights as well as turns.

KenL · 10-20-2018, 03:06 PM

Took it for a ride

NzBrakelathes · 10-21-2018, 06:45 AM

My conclusion on the USB charger upgrade what is best what sucked etc.

Old version (Green box 4 pin) USB charged at maybe 0.5 amps and if using a IPhone drains the battery and won't charge while in use CRAP.

New Version 2 pin USB charges at 1 Amp and not bad untested while fully in use but I am 99% sure will charge and be fine while using phone.

i bought a 3 amp module rigged it wired it to click in place of the green box on the old version - SHIT and charged only just above 0.50 Amps at best and barely would charge while in use (I have it fitted n will test more but the quality of these cheap things are trouble I think)

Conclusion IMO use the stock new version USB and I can make a small loom to plug and play.

Or car charger in the Car lighter socket I had the best charge rate at 1.95 Amps but its ugly looking but yeah it works

Stock new version seems best looks best and can be fitted easily, I also fitted the Volt meter as I made a new loom and found all the correct connectors needed to mod or make any combination work plug n play.

Bike running
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Bike on engine not running
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Testing USB polarity and function with a cheap LED so I don't wreck my IPhone
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calvarez · 10-21-2018, 08:52 PM

I put a speedo corrector on it. Mine seems to be about 9-9.5% off.

And removed an ugly old USFS sticker from the top box. The adhesive on those is just slightly stronger than the glue on the Space Shuttle tiles.

NzBrakelathes · 10-21-2018, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by calvarez

I put a speedo corrector on it. Mine seems to be about 9-9.5% off.

And removed an ugly old USFS sticker from the top box. The adhesive on those is just slightly stronger than the glue on the Space Shuttle tiles.

What did you do to correct the speedo?
I thought seeing you have the 19 inch wheel that was enough of a correction?

calvarez · 10-22-2018, 11:41 AM

I used the commonly-recommended SpeedoDRD U1. I'm not aware of any other way to do it. There was a tutorial here that showed a heck of a lot of work, and I didn't understand why, so I started by popping off the windscreen to see how the wires run. Easy. I took off the headlight for easier access, peeled back the wire protector, and cut the wires 2" from the plug behind the speedo. Used the provided connectors to hook it all up, bolted it all back together, and started with a setting of 11.1%. After a I couple test rides I ended up at 9.2% comparing the speed to a GPS app on my phone. I've only been to about 25 in my neighborhood though, and it might need more tuning when I get to higher speeds which would show an error more clearly.

I tied the device to the subframe behind the headlight so I can reach in and program it without removing anything at all.

Maybe the 11% I've seen others mention is with the 18" wheel?

sqwert · 10-24-2018, 05:13 PM

All else being equal, changing from 18 to 19 is only 5.5% increase in real speed vs. indicated speed. Most folks I see going to 19 on the front are also changing over to more aggressively treaded tires for off road. That type tire is a bit taller than stock, so might add another percent or portion thereof, all else being equal. Some folks are fitting tires with 100% aspect ratios so that can add a bit more actual to a speed indication, maybe 2 to 2.5mph at 50mph.

calvarez · 10-26-2018, 09:57 AM

Yesterday I did my first ride at sustained highway speeds, and now the speedo reads about 1-1.5 MPH low. So I'll do another adjustment down to 8.1%.

Juanca · 10-26-2018, 01:03 PM

Hello friends, tomorrow I will send my seat to an upholster and will modify it to have more cushion and to avoid the seat as it is now to keep pushing me to the front.
This is causing discomfort and also my feet are not well aligned to the pegs.
I will send pics once it is done.
The price will be $17.50.

10-21-2018, 06:45 AM	#789
NzBrakelathes Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Hell Posts: 2,408	My conclusion on the USB charger upgrade what is best what sucked etc. Old version (Green box 4 pin) USB charged at maybe 0.5 amps and if using a IPhone drains the battery and won't charge while in use CRAP. New Version 2 pin USB charges at 1 Amp and not bad untested while fully in use but I am 99% sure will charge and be fine while using phone. i bought a 3 amp module rigged it wired it to click in place of the green box on the old version - SHIT and charged only just above 0.50 Amps at best and barely would charge while in use (I have it fitted n will test more but the quality of these cheap things are trouble I think) Conclusion IMO use the stock new version USB and I can make a small loom to plug and play. Or car charger in the Car lighter socket I had the best charge rate at 1.95 Amps but its ugly looking but yeah it works Stock new version seems best looks best and can be fitted easily, I also fitted the Volt meter as I made a new loom and found all the correct connectors needed to mod or make any combination work plug n play. Bike running Bike on engine not running Testing USB polarity and function with a cheap LED so I don't wreck my IPhone
	0

10-18-2018, 10:37 PM	#782
sqwert Join Date: Jun 2017 Posts: 382	L brackets for what purpose? I have CSC's initial design center stand. In the shop I hoist the front by the handlebar with an engine hoist, a come-a-long, a couple tiedown straps, a wrecker, or whatever else is handy. On the road I ask a couple sturdy looking young men to drag the bike backwards by the luggage rack while I stand on the center stand's miniscule foot pin. If I want to work with the rear wheel I have a furring strip with a V cut on one end to slide under the swingarm. Either way is easy, and the stand is fairly secure under the bike.
	0

10-19-2018, 03:30 AM	#783
NzBrakelathes Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Hell Posts: 2,408	https://store.cscmotorcycles.com/2-P...p/csc-1003.htm These normally come free with the bike, mobile type make do stands incase you get a flat tyre or other small tasks
	0

10-19-2018, 01:13 PM	#785
calvarez Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 334	Yeah those brackets looked scary just in the photos. And now knowing the weight distribution...doubly scary. Also I'm not blaming anyone, it just is what it is. I'm commenting for others to know the details if they are considering the stand. If you want it for home maintenance, don't do it. If you really do need to do on-road maintenance, there's no choice.
	0

10-19-2018, 10:18 PM	#787
sqwert Join Date: Jun 2017 Posts: 382	Mounted a trailer light kit under the and beside the top box, then wired the new lights through an electronic gadget that makes the turn signal circuits work as brake lights as well as turns.
	0

10-20-2018, 03:06 PM	#788
KenL Join Date: Sep 2018 Posts: 19	Took it for a ride
	1

10-21-2018, 08:52 PM	#790
calvarez Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 334	I put a speedo corrector on it. Mine seems to be about 9-9.5% off. And removed an ugly old USFS sticker from the top box. The adhesive on those is just slightly stronger than the glue on the Space Shuttle tiles.
	0

10-22-2018, 11:41 AM	#792
calvarez Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 334	I used the commonly-recommended SpeedoDRD U1. I'm not aware of any other way to do it. There was a tutorial here that showed a heck of a lot of work, and I didn't understand why, so I started by popping off the windscreen to see how the wires run. Easy. I took off the headlight for easier access, peeled back the wire protector, and cut the wires 2" from the plug behind the speedo. Used the provided connectors to hook it all up, bolted it all back together, and started with a setting of 11.1%. After a I couple test rides I ended up at 9.2% comparing the speed to a GPS app on my phone. I've only been to about 25 in my neighborhood though, and it might need more tuning when I get to higher speeds which would show an error more clearly. I tied the device to the subframe behind the headlight so I can reach in and program it without removing anything at all. Maybe the 11% I've seen others mention is with the 18" wheel?
	0

10-24-2018, 05:13 PM	#793
sqwert Join Date: Jun 2017 Posts: 382	All else being equal, changing from 18 to 19 is only 5.5% increase in real speed vs. indicated speed. Most folks I see going to 19 on the front are also changing over to more aggressively treaded tires for off road. That type tire is a bit taller than stock, so might add another percent or portion thereof, all else being equal. Some folks are fitting tires with 100% aspect ratios so that can add a bit more actual to a speed indication, maybe 2 to 2.5mph at 50mph.
	0

10-26-2018, 09:57 AM	#794
calvarez Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 334	Yesterday I did my first ride at sustained highway speeds, and now the speedo reads about 1-1.5 MPH low. So I'll do another adjustment down to 8.1%.
	0

10-26-2018, 01:03 PM	#795
Juanca Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Guatemala Posts: 55	Hello friends, tomorrow I will send my seat to an upholster and will modify it to have more cushion and to avoid the seat as it is now to keep pushing me to the front. This is causing discomfort and also my feet are not well aligned to the pegs. I will send pics once it is done. The price will be $17.50.
	1