Bashan BSR 250 Build/Chronicles - aka Enforcer/Hawk2/DB41H

[Armycopter]

Looks nice. Is there a way to set the miles so you aren’t starting over at zero?

[AresROC]

Originally Posted by Armycopter

Looks nice. Is there a way to set the miles so you aren’t starting over at zero?

Well, when you mention that Ferris Bueller Dad's Ferrari comes to mind.

If "I" were to do it, I would use a pulse generator to mimic the wheel speed sensor, and send that signal to digital gauge until desired mileage is reached.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheel_speed_sensor

[AresROC]

Thinking my front wheel bearings seized, I bought some PGN 6301 bearings off eBay just so I can have some replacements quick.

As it turned out, I was unable to punch out the bearings because the hub has a center tube. A bearing extraction tool with slide hammer will be needed. Then I realized the OEM SJX 6301 bearings are actually not seized. Their grease have hardened and it was just hard to turn them. I can turn them with a screwdriver and it is still solid and smooth!

Then I proceeded to pack the grease into the OEM bearings for now. Previously when I greased the PGN bearings, only one side has grease inside. I think packing the grease is a good idea to keep the dirt out. Those bearings are rated at 20,000 rpm with oil lubrication, and I calculated 21" wheel to spin at 770 rpm @ 65mph, so a bit of grease shouldn't hurt much.

[JerryHawk250]

I cleaned my bearings with brake cleaner over an oil drain pan and repacked them without removing them from he hub. I used a wooden dowel on my cordless drill to spin the bearing while spraying them. Did the same thing after packing with grease. I spun it a few times and packed more grease until I knew it was grease well.

[AresROC]

I only ride on weekends but I seem to work on this bike daily!

Since my front wheel is crooked to the side it is time to work on the steering stem, so I can straighten out the forks (which points the wheel). Thanks to all the help here the steps are easier than I thought:

• Remove front brake caliper
• Remove front wheel
• Loosen fork clamps, slide forks out
• Loosen triple tree top nut with 30mm socket. Mine wasn't tight and I could turn it by hand with a socket on it.
• Remove top clamp, remove lock ring and the bottom clamp slides out.

Notice there is a raised section on the lock ring, it should point up during reassembly. Also note the ring position and steering resistance, so you can put it back where it is supposed to be.

There is a metal bracket (where the ? mark is) on the headtube. Not sure if wiring harness is supposed to go inside of it or it serves other purpose?

The bearings measured 26mm I.D., 43mm O.D., and 15mm thick.

I removed old grease and packed in CRC marine grease. Will be tightening stem nut to 50 ft-lbs, (or tighten and then back off 1/4 turn). TBD...

[Weldangrind]

The metal tab looks to be the steering lock plate.

[AresROC]

The forks on the BSR have been working fine for my desert trails. Other than wheel alignment issues the front suspension has been working surprisingly well.

Since I have extra Castrol Transmax Import ATF laying around, I decided to put 'em to use. According to datasheet it is equivalent in viscosity to Honda Fork oil 10w.

The fork model is CAQ-03 CM-1. It had dual rate springs, no preload spacer, and 180ml of oil in each fork.

Fork travel is ~160mm, or about 6 inches. Length 820mm, brake caliper bolt spacing is 60mm, and the holes between the brackets are 45mm (fork brace).

Fork oil came out nice and clean. I put 200ml ATF back into each fork. The springs came out just below the top of the tube and is held in place by the top end-cap, so that is just fine for me with no preload spacers.

I measured the fork clamp factory torque to be about 150 in/lbs before I loosen them. CSC calls for 16 ft-lbs/192 in-lbs for them, seems a bit high for me... I settled for 175 in/lbs for now.

Cheers!

[AresROC]

Well, things are happening fast and furious but progress was slow. Time to update before I lost track of them all!

There where front wheel alignment issues, front wheel is now out of round after loosening the spokes for rim shift.
A new Fork brace didn't fit
New shock fell apart and had to be rebuild

I messed up the horn by trying to relocate it, and had to put it back in its original location.
Doing 2nd valve adjustment. Looks like I waited too long intake valve had no gap and exhaust valve had a large gap. Set Intake to 0.035 and Exhaust to 0.05.

Carb Tuning:
The new fuel mixture screw worked well. It has a slotted end for a Phillips screw driver and with great difficulty, I was able to use a flexible screwdriver and needle-nose pliers to get in place to tune idle. Burned some hair on the exhaust pipe during the process.

Weather is getting much cooler.
Took main jet down from Keihin 120 to 115. Now there is some throttle down backfire. Still need to wire up kill switch for spark chop.
Slow jet stayed at 38 since I like the no choke startup, my next size down is 35 which is very close to stock 34. However new fuel mixture screw is at half turn out so I might still need to go smaller to 35. Notice the nicely tapered new needle jet vs stock needle jet.
Mid range throttle needle went from 2 washer raise down to 1. Throttle response is good.

Finally getting out to ride it tomorrow Sunday its been 2 weeks of work for 1 half day ride!

[NzBrakelathes]

I plan to be in Vegas end month
Looks like I might need to pay you a visit n teach you a few things!
Better off with correct air adj screwdriver etc I can bring one and teach you.

[AresROC]

After some unwanted fuel tank repair, and wheel truing, bike is going again!

Cleaned the air filter. Filter size is 135mmx115mm. Looking inside it looked like surface of Mars! Evidence of water everywhere. Bike can only go 60MPH with opened up exhaust, so looks like pod filter is going on soon!

Oil change Rotella T4. Look at that magnetic plug after 200 miles! Gonna cut that oil change interval in half...

[OneLeggedRider]

I still dont get the "rim shift" thing. So you thought you could loosen the spokes on one side and tighten the other and move your rim over a quarter inch relative to the hub? Your rim needs to be centered with the hub in order to be it's strongest and able to handle lateral and horizontal loads. If you're trying to center the wheel in the forks try playing with the spacers (cutting and shimming) instead.

[franque]

Another thing, too: it is best practice to replace those bearings that you removed and reinstalled - the stress of pulling the bearing out by the center of the bearing is likely to damage the bearing (that's why you install using stress only on the outside of the bearing). Just trying to save you headache/heartache in the future.

[AresROC]

Originally Posted by OneLeggedRider

I still dont get the "rim shift" thing.

Was verifying the wheel have not shifted on the hub. Yea I still want it centered, not offset. The real issue are the forks not being completely parallel, but within tolerance.

Originally Posted by franque

Another thing, too: it is best practice to replace those bearings that you removed and reinstalled.

Thanks, I actually bought 4 new bearings and didn't remove the old bearings. I now have a 3/8" anchor bolt that will do the job if needed.


Bashanda is not always on the bike stand! Once in a while it does get to go out and strech its legs on its own private drag strip. Top air box cover was removed, NGK spark plug installed, and still ~60 MPH top speed. The bike did stall and strand me in the middle of the desert thanks to some bad clutch adjustment by 'he who shall not be named'. Once I figured out where the cluch lever freeplay is was an epic ride back!

[NzBrakelathes]

Originally Posted by Armycopter

Looks nice. Is there a way to set the miles so you aren’t starting over at zero?

I heard of a place in china that can set to other mileage but expect it to cost $35-$45 extra

[Savageman69]

Very interesting read. I enjoyed very much.