Weldangrind's New Lifan GY5

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

You did a superb job on the Lifan. It looks even better in person than it does in photographs.

Thanks, Spud.

[Weldangrind]

I have some further adventures in bike maintenance and repair to report. After reading Matt's post on modifying the turn beeper, I dug in. Read his post here: mmprestine's beeper mod

After considerable wiring harness research, I decided to isolate the two wires that would normally trigger a typical flasher and connect them to a standard flasher with alligator clips. When that was successful, I removed and terminated the remaining wires to the beeper. My beeper is different from Matt's, in that it is one molded unit from the factory that I'd need to cut apart. Rather than try to muffle the noisy beeper, I'd rather have one that is easily replaced at the local Napa.

For those who are interested, there will be a black wire that provides power for the beeper, and a grey or green wire that provides the beeper ground upon selecting left or right at the switch. Some simple testing with a multimeter will reveal which wire completes the ground.

This is the flasher that has been removed:

[Weldangrind]

I also didn't trust the alarm device that was under the seat. I tried simply unplugging it last year, but the bike wouldn't run. I researched it a bit more, and determined that it is also a remote start device, like Dossbag's:

[Weldangrind]

Read about his bike here: Dossbag's Roketa Storm 250



His seems to work well, but I didn't get a remote with my bike, and the battery was completely dead in the morning after having been fully charged the day before. It could have been a bad battery or bad reg / rec, but I'd rather ditch it since I don't have a way to activate it.

After digging into the harness this weekend, I found that almost every wire was simply spliced into the harness to tap into battery power, switched power, signals and tail light. I removed and terminated each wire one at a time, and found that two wires were left: a white wire with a black stripe and a black wire with a white stripe.

The black wire with white stripe normally goes to the CDI, but in this case it goes to the alarm / remote device and then sends the signal to the white wire with black stripe to the CDI. I cut those wires and soldered them together near the CDI.



I haven't tried it yet, but I can confirm that the wire from the kill switch (black with white stripe) goes to that specific terrminal.

[Weldangrind]

This is the exorcised alarm / remote device:



The two pin connector was for the speaker, and the coiled wire on the other end is presumably the antenna wire.

I really like the idea of having a simpler system, because I don't want potential trouble from the alarm / remote to strand me.

Having removed the beeper flasher, I now have the opportunity to install an LED flasher down the road. I just might.

[Weldangrind]

For those who might be interested, I used this schematic as a guide. I can't say that it's 100% correct, since I haven't studied the entire thing. It sure looks right for my bike, and it might be similar for Roketas and Tmec's that have the remote start option.

[SpudRider]

Thanks for posting the great updates, Weld.

[Weldangrind]

I spent a little more time tidying the harness, and now the solenoid and new Napa flasher reside under the seat with the CDI, instead of hanging out the side with the reg / rec. I'll try it like that for awhile before I trim the tabs off.

I also rejetted, since I had the carb set up for Spudland elevation, and I'm closer to sea level. I'm trying a 110 main and 22.5 slow for now, because I had those in stock. I suspect it'll need a 25 slow when it gets colder outside. I got rid of the stock airbox and installed a pod filter. I'll report how it runs when I get to that point.

No new pics yet, but soon.

[tankme]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

For those who might be interested, I used this schematic as a guide. I can't say that it's 100% correct, since I haven't studied the entire thing. It sure looks right for my bike, and it might be similar for Roketas and Tmec's that have the remote start option.

Attachment 1357

Woot I am currently using that wiring diagram and it is very very close to my bike's wiring harness. I didn't have the alarm (very possibly removed previous to my ownership), but everything else has been right on.

(Heh And I was going to post that!)

Jim

[Weldangrind]

Glad to hear that! If yours never had the alarm (which is likely), the black wire with white stripe will go from the kill switch to the CDI.

[mmprestine]

Nice looking bike! Good thread and lots of good mods. I like the standard OTS (off the self) relay mod.

I have been working through my jetting also, factory settings were definitely just made to work and not how I like to set things up. I should have a post up in a few days about that and all the interesting details. Busy life keeps getting in the way.

[Weldangrind]

I can appreciate that. my job keeps getting in the way of playing with bikes.

Are you using the stock carb? If so, less than $40 gets you Mikuni freedom.

[mmprestine]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I can appreciate that. my job keeps getting in the way of playing with bikes.

Are you using the stock carb? If so, less than $40 gets you Mikuni freedom.

The sheng wey carb will work just fine. I have used some of them on harbor frieght predator motors and always seem to get them tuned. Some times people have problems with them but a few things help a lot. Usually the jets dont seal down so you need to put something on the threads to make sure they seal and not leak. You want the jet to do all the work. The pilot jet sucks since there are no known replacements but you just need a 5mm tap to make the keihin carb ones work. One the up side the factory ones are always small so drilling up works just fine just need to test a lot before moving up again. Right now I am at 105 main and pilot 42, idle screw 1.5 turns out, 3rd clip but will go to 4th clip on needle i believe.

[Weldangrind]

Nothing wrong with the casting or the design, but Mikuni jets are so cheap and plentiful that I'm done with Keihin-clone slow jets.

So cool that you've used them on Predator motors! I've always wanted to try that on a China version that is a Honda clone or an old B&S. Did you buy or fab a manifold? Do you have enough pics to start a thread on it?

[mmprestine]

A few years ago I started making some motor-bicycles. Around here the laws are very liberal for them, basically anything that has pedals is fine, all you need is a something that looks like a bike and an engine. I have always been fond of the old makes and their simplicity. I like the board track racers and this guy makes some of the best around. Check out his web and flickr page, especially the flickr page as the photos are awesome.

http://www.sportsmanflyer.com/bikes.html

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sportsmanflyer/

Walmart, Harbor Frieght, and Ebay really make this to easy and cheap. A word of warning - DO NOT look into it if you are week and have project issues like me! Its a sickness I tell people.

I have made a few and I am currently working on one and could start a thread on it or just on the engine part. The quality of these engines is pretty amazing for the price. And when you remove the governor and put a good carb on them they really rip.

I remember when I was about 7 and bought a Rupp mini bike at a garage sale for $15. Didn't run but I took care of that. Never had a Dad so Mom was pretty proud and that really started it all for me.

Matt