Need some Ford help. - Page 5

katoranger · 03-31-2010, 09:19 PM

No rust on this one either. I think it will take alot of work to get it shined up, but probably be worth it.

Just have to start some year. At least it has a protective layer of grime right now.

katoranger · 07-17-2010, 11:48 PM

Well, back to the old ford. Still runs, but doesn't want to idle. Replaced most of the vacuum hoses, but I believe my problem is the EGR valve.

Some times it will idle pretty well, but most of the time rough and stalls.

Thinking the EGR is stuck open.

At the least the AC works.

FastDoc · 07-18-2010, 12:19 AM

My Ford's A/C has a slow leak. I don't even know how to figure that out...

Isn't there a code for an EGR?

katoranger · 07-26-2010, 05:29 PM

There is, but I don't have a CEL on my dash. Need to use an analog multimeter.

I have replaced the vacuum lines which helped some. The symptoms point to the EGR. It is not difficult to reach so I plan to pull it off and take a look.

Would it be bad to just block it off? I have heard of power gains.

On the AC leak. Is your truck still R12? Mine has been converted to R134a professionally. It works pretty good.

You can buy a can of dye and then use a black light to find the leak.

AC is used from March until November here. It is important to me.

Allen

katoranger · 08-06-2010, 03:22 PM

Okay. I finally had a few minutes so I pulled the EGR valve off.

Plugged up here. I think it is plugged in the open position.

Weldangrind · 08-06-2010, 08:26 PM

How do you plan to clean it?

katoranger · 08-06-2010, 10:39 PM

With the used one I just purchased on ebay.

New ones were pretty expensive, but I found a nice looking used one. Plan to bolt on and go. Its nice to have 3 vehicles to use. This one can be down while I wait on parts to arrive.

Weldangrind · 08-07-2010, 12:43 AM

I think I might have shared this before, but I bead blasted an EGR once, and it worked perfectly after that. It had been totally clogged.

mizke · 08-07-2010, 12:56 AM

egr valves just just best to replace, iacv's are much easier to clean out..

in my old honda the iacv started acting up and if i remember correctly there was a screen in it where it mated to the intake manifold that had gotten dirty.. carb cleaner took care of that..

katoranger · 08-07-2010, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I think I might have shared this before, but I bead blasted an EGR once, and it worked perfectly after that. It had been totally clogged.

I read that, but unfortunately do not have the equipment available. I spent $21 total for what looks like a nice clean used one.

Hopefully the little thing will idle after this. It sounds like it has a big cam right now.

Mizke, I agree that replacing can be alot easier than cleaning unless you have the right tools.

Already replaced the IAC.

Allen

mizke · 08-07-2010, 02:23 PM

have you looked into ignition components ? coil, plugs, wires, i had a issue in my stang where during winter my belt would slip and when i did it, while it was making that god awful sound, my rpms would drop from idle to stalling out...

new plugs and coils and the wrong went away

katoranger · 08-07-2010, 03:55 PM

I have replaced everything, but the coil and ignition module. It needed those items when I bought the truck and it did help some.

I have replaced just about all the vacuum lines. Check the MAP sensor and the IAC. Decided it was time to check the EGR. Found it clogged up.

I would like to get the truck to idle correctly. Its gets alittle annoying trying to keep it running at a stop light.

mizke · 08-07-2010, 04:08 PM

have you check the mass sensor, it will be the in the intake tubing behind the filter.. i would look into checking the ignition stuff you have not check already.

does it act up while driving ? maybe something that indicate a faulty injector,

this is what my book says for my mustang

engine stalls

idle speed incorrect
fuel filter clogged and or impurities/waters in the fuel system
damaged or wet distributor cap and wires
emissions system components faulty
faulty or in correctly gapped spark plugs /also check plug wires
vacuum leak at the intake manifold or vacuum hoses
fuel injection or engine control system faulty

the vacuum leak at the intake manifold would be a faulty gasket at the manifold to head location

also under looping idle it states that a leaking egr valve or a clogged pcv valve would cause a loopy idle
other things that would cause a loop

vacuum leaks
air filter clogged
fuel pump not delivering enoguh fuel
leaking head gasket
timing chain worn
cam shaft lobes worn
valves burned or other wise leaking
ignition timing out of adjustment
ignition system not working correctly
fuel injection system part(s) faulty

katoranger · 08-09-2010, 01:00 PM

It could be any of that. Well not a MAF since my truck doesn't have one. The next year model did.

I have check the intake for leaks and could not find any. New fuel filter. Air filter is good too.

Its an old truck so it really could be anything on your list.

Thanks for the input. The EGR is suppose to arrive today so I am going to pick up a gasket and put it back together.

Allen

mizke · 08-09-2010, 06:33 PM

if that does not work, let me know and i will type out the instructions to adjust the idle on the iacv

its rare that it needs to be adjusted, but when i first got my acura integra ls it had a very low idle and nothing i did help to bring it up.. turns out that over the years the idle adjustment had not worn out, but moved.

03-31-2010, 09:19 PM	#61
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	No rust on this one either. I think it will take alot of work to get it shined up, but probably be worth it. Just have to start some year. At least it has a protective layer of grime right now. __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

07-17-2010, 11:48 PM	#62
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	Well, back to the old ford. Still runs, but doesn't want to idle. Replaced most of the vacuum hoses, but I believe my problem is the EGR valve. Some times it will idle pretty well, but most of the time rough and stalls. Thinking the EGR is stuck open. At the least the AC works. __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

07-18-2010, 12:19 AM	#63
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	My Ford's A/C has a slow leak. I don't even know how to figure that out... Isn't there a code for an EGR? __________________ Happy to serve.
	0

07-26-2010, 05:29 PM	#64
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	There is, but I don't have a CEL on my dash. Need to use an analog multimeter. I have replaced the vacuum lines which helped some. The symptoms point to the EGR. It is not difficult to reach so I plan to pull it off and take a look. Would it be bad to just block it off? I have heard of power gains. On the AC leak. Is your truck still R12? Mine has been converted to R134a professionally. It works pretty good. You can buy a can of dye and then use a black light to find the leak. AC is used from March until November here. It is important to me. Allen __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

08-06-2010, 08:26 PM	#66
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	How do you plan to clean it? __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

08-06-2010, 03:22 PM	#65
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	Okay. I finally had a few minutes so I pulled the EGR valve off. Plugged up here. I think it is plugged in the open position.
	0

08-06-2010, 10:39 PM	#67
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	With the used one I just purchased on ebay. New ones were pretty expensive, but I found a nice looking used one. Plan to bolt on and go. Its nice to have 3 vehicles to use. This one can be down while I wait on parts to arrive.
	0

08-07-2010, 12:43 AM	#68
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	I think I might have shared this before, but I bead blasted an EGR once, and it worked perfectly after that. It had been totally clogged. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

08-07-2010, 12:56 AM	#69
mizke Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: austin, tx Posts: 1,452	egr valves just just best to replace, iacv's are much easier to clean out.. in my old honda the iacv started acting up and if i remember correctly there was a screen in it where it mated to the intake manifold that had gotten dirty.. carb cleaner took care of that..
	0

08-07-2010, 02:23 PM	#71
mizke Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: austin, tx Posts: 1,452	have you looked into ignition components ? coil, plugs, wires, i had a issue in my stang where during winter my belt would slip and when i did it, while it was making that god awful sound, my rpms would drop from idle to stalling out... new plugs and coils and the wrong went away
	0

08-07-2010, 03:55 PM	#72
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	I have replaced everything, but the coil and ignition module. It needed those items when I bought the truck and it did help some. I have replaced just about all the vacuum lines. Check the MAP sensor and the IAC. Decided it was time to check the EGR. Found it clogged up. I would like to get the truck to idle correctly. Its gets alittle annoying trying to keep it running at a stop light.
	0

08-07-2010, 04:08 PM	#73
mizke Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: austin, tx Posts: 1,452	have you check the mass sensor, it will be the in the intake tubing behind the filter.. i would look into checking the ignition stuff you have not check already. does it act up while driving ? maybe something that indicate a faulty injector, this is what my book says for my mustang engine stalls idle speed incorrect fuel filter clogged and or impurities/waters in the fuel system damaged or wet distributor cap and wires emissions system components faulty faulty or in correctly gapped spark plugs /also check plug wires vacuum leak at the intake manifold or vacuum hoses fuel injection or engine control system faulty the vacuum leak at the intake manifold would be a faulty gasket at the manifold to head location also under looping idle it states that a leaking egr valve or a clogged pcv valve would cause a loopy idle other things that would cause a loop vacuum leaks air filter clogged fuel pump not delivering enoguh fuel leaking head gasket timing chain worn cam shaft lobes worn valves burned or other wise leaking ignition timing out of adjustment ignition system not working correctly fuel injection system part(s) faulty
	0

08-09-2010, 01:00 PM	#74
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	It could be any of that. Well not a MAF since my truck doesn't have one. The next year model did. I have check the intake for leaks and could not find any. New fuel filter. Air filter is good too. Its an old truck so it really could be anything on your list. Thanks for the input. The EGR is suppose to arrive today so I am going to pick up a gasket and put it back together. Allen
	0

08-09-2010, 06:33 PM	#75
mizke Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: austin, tx Posts: 1,452	if that does not work, let me know and i will type out the instructions to adjust the idle on the iacv its rare that it needs to be adjusted, but when i first got my acura integra ls it had a very low idle and nothing i did help to bring it up.. turns out that over the years the idle adjustment had not worn out, but moved.
	0