Templar X 250

[dslfrk]

Just got done cutting out the cat and replacing it with 1 1/4" flexible exhaust pipe and 1 1/4" stainless steel band clamps. What a difference! Lots more midrange and doesn't make it much louder. Much more fun to ride. Saves a little weight also. At some point I will have to rejet from a 125 main to a 130 as it is now running a little lean.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by dslfrk

Just got done cutting out the cat and replacing it with 1 1/4" flexible exhaust pipe and 1 1/4" stainless steel band clamps. What a difference! Lots more midrange and doesn't make it much louder. Much more fun to ride. Saves a little weight also. At some point I will have to rejet from a 125 main to a 130 as it is now running a little lean.

THat is such a small cat, it must be stiffling. Not surprised you have experienced more torque and power. I'd like to increase the exhaust pipe diameter throughout, and put a more throaty, thumpy muffler on it. The OEM is quiet with light throttle, but cracks on load. 4 strokes should thump, not "crack"

No complaints on power delivery, but more exhaust flow and a proper large bore muffler will make it sound like it should.

[tknj99]

Originally Posted by dslfrk

Just got done cutting out the cat and replacing it with 1 1/4" flexible exhaust pipe and 1 1/4" stainless steel band clamps. What a difference! Lots more midrange and doesn't make it much louder. Much more fun to ride. Saves a little weight also. At some point I will have to rejet from a 125 main to a 130 as it is now running a little lean.

Can you post up pics? Where'd you get the pipe and clamps? Did you cut direclt through and across before and after the bulge with a cut off angle grinder? If that worked and looks good it will be my next mod especially since no welding necessary it sounds.. the welding is what put off my work on the previous Titan DLX

[Huck369]

I may have found the fix for those of us having issues with the rear brake, I took the rear slider bolt off, and left the lock washer off, and reinstalled with lock-tight, the Lock washer was causing the caliper to not have enough space, removing that lock washer made it work as it should.
PS, the headlight sucks, I'll end up adding some Aux Lighting

[tknj99]

Originally Posted by Huck369

I may have found the fix for those of us having issues with the rear brake, I took the rear slider bolt off, and left the lock washer off, and reinstalled with lock-tight, the Lock washer was causing the caliper to not have enough space, removing that lock washer made it work as it should.
PS, the headlight sucks, I'll end up adding some Aux Lighting

Confused about what you did. Any pics? How would it be better than adding a large washer inside the swingarm after the brake stay?

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Nutcracker

...
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Anyone tried a Higher cranking amps battery to overcome decompressor starting sequence? I get tired of the starter stalling out at times. I'm thinking a battery upgrade might be the answer...

Battery upgrade:
I got a Weize YTX5L-BS for $20. It's rated 80 cold cranking amps. No idea what the original battery is rated at. The Weize completely fills the battery tray- SNUG, and definitely delivering more amps than the original battery. I put it in the new 6speed since it has no kick start

But this engine is 10.5 to 1 compression. It is not surprising that it is a tough push for these little batteries. I just wait out the pausing (on the 5speed), and it has always started when it breaks through TDC. I have used the kick starter on the 5speed, and I am able to start it pretty easily.

[clezummavrider]

Originally Posted by Huck369

I may have found the fix for those of us having issues with the rear brake, I took the rear slider bolt off, and left the lock washer off, and reinstalled with lock-tight, the Lock washer was causing the caliper to not have enough space, removing that lock washer made it work as it should.
PS, the headlight sucks, I'll end up adding some Aux Lighting

This is awesome, will make the change and keep the washer for best of both worlds, at least on my bike the rear swingarm is not aligning in parallel to the face of the axle spacer so the washer helps mitigate some of the angle.

[dslfrk]

tknj99, I got the flexible exhaust pipe and clamps on E-BAY and cut the pipe before and after the bulge with a 4 1/2" grinder. I did weld on the nut for the heat guard on the flexible pipe so it kind of hides it. I used some sealant to help seal the connections. It really woke it up.

[Huck369]

Originally Posted by tknj99

Confused about what you did. Any pics? How would it be better than adding a large washer inside the swingarm after the brake stay?

Sorry, didn't think to take pics.....if I get time I might try to get some later....
The caliper is mounted off a spacer on the axle, not off the swing arm, and the rotor is mounted off the wheel, so adding the washer by the swing arm doesn't affect the spacing of the caliper, with removing the lock washer from the rear slider pin it allows the caliper to move the thickness of that washer further toward the wheel, which is where it needs additional space, the front slider is made differently, and has the extra clearance already.

[JRust]

Originally Posted by Huck369

Sorry, didn't think to take pics.....if I get time I might try to get some later....
The caliper is mounted off a spacer on the axle, not off the swing arm, and the rotor is mounted off the wheel, so adding the washer by the swing arm doesn't affect the spacing of the caliper, with removing the lock washer from the rear slider pin it allows the caliper to move the thickness of that washer further toward the wheel, which is where it needs additional space, the front slider is made differently, and has the extra clearance already.

I will have to try the lock washer removal. I agree that adding a washer on the swingarm side of the brake mount should not affect the brake position relative to the rotor? They are still mounted against each other.

[IA_Grvlrnr]

Originally Posted by BaneChonda

. My rear caliper is similar to yours in that it seems to be mounted too far to the center of the bike and has a gap on the inside pad to the rotor, and is rubbing badly on the outside piston pad. When I activate the brake pedal it pushes the pistons pulling the whole caliper body to the outside of the bike since the inside pads are fixed. Do you have any idea how to remove the caliper so it could be shimmed with washers at the two outer mount points? The front nut can be removed, but I’m unsure how the rear caliper post is mounted and how to free it from it’s mount. Thanks in advance. Quality control sure is lacking on the assemblies, lol.

BaneChonda did you ever figure this out? Seems like everyone else has the opposite problem as you... If not, check to make sure that the caliper is free to slide/float on it's pins. It should have no problem sliding to the outside... If you pull the axle and then the caliper/bracket, the caliper should float/slide freely on the pins. Otherwise make sure that your pedal linkage is adjusted correctly and not already applying pressure to master cylinder.

[JRust]

I need a little help. I messed up a few of my rear spoke nipples trying to true my wheel. I’ve been to 3 different local shops trying to get replacement nipples with no luck. All the ones they have are too small. Anyone know what size I need and where to get them?

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by JRust

I need a little help. I messed up a few of my rear spoke nipples trying to true my wheel. I’ve been to 3 different local shops trying to get replacement nipples with no luck. All the ones they have are too small. Anyone know what size I need and where to get them?

Contact PSM. No kidding. They have a line to Zuumav.

[JRust]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Contact PSM. No kidding. They have a line to Zuumav.

Do you have a contact?

[Thumper]

service@maxpro-llc.com

Tell them the model number. They have the wheels (laced, with hub, bearings and seals) as well.