new hawk 250 issues

[thehawk]

Tomorrow i am going to put the idle screw to 1.5 turns as suggested. Do i need to remove the carb to do this? Or can i do it with it installed?

[Merlin]

Works best to remove it.

[timcosby]

Originally Posted by thehawk

Tomorrow i am going to put the idle screw to 1.5 turns as suggested. Do i need to remove the carb to do this? Or can i do it with it installed?

its on the bottom so its hard to see. if you want to bend a small screwdriver in a 90 degree bend and probably cut it off short like an allen wrench you could do it but its just easier to take off. only takes five minutes at most.

[Megadan]

Or buy a 90 degree pilot tool.

[thehawk]

I saw the hole for it. I didn't see a rubber or plastic cap on it but was thinking that I could use a small 7 level screw driver. wouldn't know if there was room or not until I tried but didn't know if it needed to be disconnected when adjusting or not.

[thehawk]

Can anyone verify the spark plug? Thinking I will change that out too. I saw three different numbers when searching for it.
1. DPR8EIX-9 (2102)

2. DR8EIX (6681)

3. D8EA (2120)

I also read that the gap was supposed to be .6-.8 but that when looking at the NGK website, most of these are gapped at .9 .Two of these are iridium tipped? but what does that mean other than you should not gap it because it scratches off the iridium? Can anyone verify which one works best? Thanks.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by thehawk

Can anyone verify the spark plug? Thinking I will change that out too. I saw three different numbers when searching for it.
1. DPR8EIX-9 (2102)

2. DR8EIX (6681)

3. D8EA (2120)

I also read that the gap was supposed to be .6-.8 but that when looking at the NGK website, most of these are gapped at .9 .Two of these are iridium tipped? but what does that mean other than you should not gap it because it scratches off the iridium? Can anyone verify which one works best? Thanks.

NGK(2202) DPR8EIX-9 Iridium IX https://www.amazon.com/NGK-DPR8EIX-9.../dp/B000CSGWZC

[Megadan]

The DPR8EIX-9 OR DR8EIX will work. The only difference between those two plugs is the DPR8EIX-9 is the P, which means it has a projected electrode, and the 9 at the end indicates it is pre-gapped to .9mm or .036"

Either plug will work fine. The projected electrode will theoretically be the better plug because the electrode sticks into the cylinder another mm or two, allowing it better access to the air/fuel mix when it fires and keeps the electrode cleaner by being more exposed.

The real key to any plug you get is that it is a resistance plug. That is what the R stands for in that code. The basic idea behind a resistance plug, or a standard plug with a resistor cap on the plug wire, is to slow down the spark discharge when it fires. The purpose of this is two-fold. It prevents the coil from heating up and failing and it makes the spark last a bit longer when it fires, giving the spark more time to ignite the air/fuel mixture.

[thehawk]

As for the chain, I have not gotten a chain yet as I am still searching for one that will fit. I can find either the Unibear O-ring chain in 130, or the RK racing in O-ring or non O-ring. The price is not much different. Which do you recommend? and how do you take care of a new chain like this? (I have only ridden bikes short term, and never maintained them)

[JerryHawk250]

If you plan on riding in mud and water on a regular basis then the oring chain is the way to go. You just hose it off and spray with a chain wax. A little easier to maintain.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by thehawk

As for the chain, I have not gotten a chain yet as I am still searching for one that will fit. I can find either the Unibear O-ring chain in 130, or the RK racing in O-ring or non O-ring. The price is not much different. Which do you recommend? and how do you take care of a new chain like this? (I have only ridden bikes short term, and never maintained them)

I prefer conventional chain because I clean my chain once a year in hot kerosene, and then cook it in canning wax for at least 2 hours, and I add graphite to the wax. That's for an on-off road bike. On a higher mileage road bike, I do the same routine once every 3 months...ARH

[thehawk]

Thanks, it sounds like the oring is the easier way to go with only washing it off and then spraying it with the chain wax. Not to mention my wife would kill me if i cooked a chain in a pan of kerosene in the kitchen. Just the thought of it scares me, LOL

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by thehawk

Thanks, it sounds like the oring is the easier way to go with only washing it off and then spraying it with the chain wax. Not to mention my wife would kill me if i cooked a chain in a pan of kerosene in the kitchen. Just the thought of it scares me, LOL

I here ya. I'm still running the stock chain on my hawk and the graphite and wax works great. But will upgrade to the o-ring chain when I do wear this one out. I use to run a o-ring chain on my 200x racing. It was so easy to maintain because the o-ring sealed the pins and bearings from the dirt and mud. A quick wash down and sprayed it after it had dried off.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by thehawk

Thanks, it sounds like the oring is the easier way to go with only washing it off and then spraying it with the chain wax. Not to mention my wife would kill me if i cooked a chain in a pan of kerosene in the kitchen. Just the thought of it scares me, LOL

You don't heat the kerosene. You soak it in kerosene, which is a great solvent/cleaner, to wash all the grime out of it.

The heating is done with the wax, and if you wanted to go that route, go buy a double boiler at Wal-mart for 15 bucks, and keep it only for that purpose.

I am a huge fan of O-ring style chains, but they do get expensive. If you do buy one, make sure to get a good quality one or just don't bother. EK SROZ O-ring chains are one of the better deals out there for the 428 chains. RK Racing is another great brand but will be a bit more expensive. D.I.D. is another good brand.

On way you can save money is do a bit of searching and price comparisons on different chain lengths. Sometimes you can find longer chain lengths than what you need for a cheaper price, and then simply remove the links you don't need. I saved over $40 on my 520 chain because I found a DID VX2 X-ring chain in 120 links on sale for $60, and I can shorten it down to the 102 or 104 links that I need.

ALL of that said, there is nothing wrong with standard chains. Prep them properly and keep up on proper chain care/maintenance and they will last a very long time.

[JerryHawk250]

This one seems to be a decent chain for under $40. It's the one I plan on getting. Just have to cut down to size. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019OEZFKW...d=2TIDKN14UQSQ