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Old 11-04-2016, 02:12 PM   #46
katoranger   katoranger is offline
 
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Just need to find me a deal on one of these. 7.3L only.

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Old 11-04-2016, 07:52 PM   #47
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Underneath is completely done, except for an oil filter. Sides are done. Top isn't done, and now I'm forgetting how to mount all the brackets at the back of the engine to route wires. Oh well, time to stop for the day. Tomorrow intake manifold. Front will be easy.
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Old 11-04-2016, 08:51 PM   #48
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Almost sounds like more work than the 4.3 to 5.7 conversion on my Dad's van. We even made some of the parts to make the 4 speed work.
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Old 11-05-2016, 01:37 AM   #49
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Underneath is completely done, except for an oil filter. Sides are done. Top isn't done, and now I'm forgetting how to mount all the brackets at the back of the engine to route wires. Oh well, time to stop for the day. Tomorrow intake manifold. Front will be easy.
Haha! I'm quoting myself! Anyway, spent an hour searching for pictures of the back side of the engine so I could get the brackets back on right. Figured it out finally. Will tackle that and hopefully an intake manifold tomorrow. If the rains don't set in...

As far as hard work, it's not complicated. But every single stinking bolt or nut is in an awkward place. Some people recommend lifting the body. Some, remove the fenderwell liners. All I gotta say is, most of this engine is only reachable through a bunch of contortioning and strange combinations of extensions and swivels. But, once I sorta got that into my head, it sloooooooowly went together.
Case in point. The starter. 2 bolts are easy. The third, on the top, accessible through fenderwell. Highly recommend pulling off the tire and rim. I didn't, but was a major job reaching in there with that bolt. I was happy to see a remanufactured sticker on that starter...

I've owner over 85 cars and trucks. S10's were the worst. This one is getting close to that... same era too, so I guess it was the early movement toward fuel economy and roomier cabs, but they forgot about the mechanics who had to work on them.
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Old 11-05-2016, 02:00 AM   #50
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Just need to find me a deal on one of these. 7.3L only.

Do you know anything about importing Canadian trucks ?I made a great living fixing fords so I don't want anything to do with them ( my '49 Ford truck is going to be all gm underneath ) but I have no problem finding junk like that around here for very little cash ,and much newer ones as well .Actually ,a local guy was trying to rid himself of a 2001 ,4 door dually 4x4 diesel the past few weeks for $750.00 with about 100000 miles on the truck .There was a 2011 f250 earlier this week for $1500.00 with a bad engine .I do know that almost all the local dealers are shipping all of the trucks they get in used to the states ,so it is probably worth your while to look into it .Those prices are in Canadian funds ,so take off another 35% or so .


 
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Old 11-05-2016, 10:15 AM   #51
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Look what just popped up .Unfortunately its a single cab ,but it's got 80,000 miles on it .http://www.kijiji.ca/v-buy-sell-othe...ationFlag=true


 
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Old 11-05-2016, 10:40 AM   #52
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Look what just popped up .Unfortunately its a single cab ,but it's got 80,000 miles on it .http://www.kijiji.ca/v-buy-sell-othe...ationFlag=true
I don't know anything about the import process. I lived in Alaska for 28 years, so spent a lot of time in Canada, and have spent a lot of money there too. But never bought a vehicle from there. Maybe someone else can pitch in?
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Old 11-05-2016, 06:56 PM   #53
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Look what just popped up .Unfortunately its a single cab ,but it's got 80,000 miles on it .http://www.kijiji.ca/v-buy-sell-othe...ationFlag=true
Sorry for the thread drift, but I am wondering why those trucks are so cheap. Here the above truck would be at least $5K US. The dually I pictured would be $10K or more.

Of course I would prefer to stick with one from the south to avoid rust. Texas is only a state away.
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Old 11-05-2016, 07:08 PM   #54
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This is common pricing here. I like the cummins dodge trucks and the earlier duramax trucks too. Equal oppurtunity junk driver.

https://seks.craigslist.org/cto/5862428581.html
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Old 11-05-2016, 10:25 PM   #55
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Sorry for the thread drift, but I am wondering why those trucks are so cheap. Here the above truck would be at least $5K US. The dually I pictured would be $10K or more.

Of course I would prefer to stick with one from the south to avoid rust. Texas is only a state away.
Thread drift away! As far as Texas, this truck is from Texas. Complete with the red clay mud on the exhaust. No rust tho. Just redneck abuse.

Today I finished up all underneath including plugging in the o2 sensors. That's a job in itself, so by removing the tranny dipstick tube I was able to do that. But, of course, it wanted to pour oil out, but luckily I knew it would, so had the pan ready. Then, since I'd lost a few quarts and also, realized the oil wasn't super nice looking, I decided to drain the torque converter and transmission. Cool thing is, converter has a drain plug. So, did that. Will do tranny pan tomorrow. Meanwhile, I went to town, to buy oil. It's Mercon V and it's very expensive. I finally found it for 4.27$ a quart at Walmart. The next cheapest was carquest at 5$ a quart. It takes 14 quarts when both converter and pan are drained. So, I also drained my pocket book...

Picked up engine oil at Wally World too, also way cheaper. And a motorcraft filter at advance. Went to oreillys for the cheapest tranny filter. By the time I came home, it was raining. Still is. Will see what tomorrow holds!
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:45 AM   #56
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Chrysler ATF+4 is expensive too.

Trucks here on the Kansas/Oklahoma line tend to be pretty rust free. My F150 is an Oklahoma truck. 37 years and just a small amount of rust above the rear tires.
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Old 11-06-2016, 09:05 AM   #57
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How about some Havoline?

It has the Mercon V specs, and usually costs under $4 a quart shipped to your door for a 12 pack

https://www.amazon.com/Havoline-2265.../dp/B00M1Y3KZA

http://www.havoline.com/en-US/produc...ron--vi--.html

I use Havoline ATF in my 262,000 mile Honda Accord EX and my 2 90's Jeeps
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Old 11-06-2016, 09:47 AM   #58
Landsvw   Landsvw is offline
 
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How about some Havoline?

It has the Mercon V specs, and usually costs under $4 a quart shipped to your door for a 12 pack

https://www.amazon.com/Havoline-2265.../dp/B00M1Y3KZA

http://www.havoline.com/en-US/produc...ron--vi--.html

I use Havoline ATF in my 262,000 mile Honda Accord EX and my 2 90's Jeeps

Haha! Oh no, the oil argument! It's ubiquitous!

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=1246418

https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/autotransfluid

I guess I'll pay the extra 5.60$ and stick with the oil recommended for this transmission.

Hope to have a running truck today. If the weather holds...
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Old 11-06-2016, 10:12 AM   #59
Azhule   Azhule is offline
 
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No arguments from me use and pay for whatever you want, I'm just listing an inexpensive alternative to what you may be using... no need to get all "Bob the oil guy" on a ASE cert. tech funny threads over there... always find the dreaded "I put X oil in my engine/transmission and it threw the timing belt into the gas tank, and that angered the unicorns in my muffler who drained my blinker fluid" kinda threads...

I've talked to countless "Master Mechanics" over the years and they basically all say the same thing... "use what you want, as long at it meets your vehicles specs, the company paid a lot of $$ to put that spec on the label"... I doubt a name brand company like Havoline would lie about passing whatever they have on there label

Send off oil samples and see if the product is doing any harm or not

Havoline has done several Mercon tests and has the "pass/approval for use in" (directly from Havoline's website and bottle) :

Ford MERCON, MERCON V, MERCON SP and MERCON LV

Don't know why everyone jumps to arms over "oil"
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Old 11-06-2016, 10:18 AM   #60
Landsvw   Landsvw is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Azhule View Post
No arguments from me use and pay for whatever you want, I'm just listing an inexpensive alternative to what you may be using... no need to get all "Bob the oil guy" on a ASE cert. tech funny threads over there... always find the dreaded "I put X oil in my engine/transmission and it threw the timing belt into the gas tank, and that angered the unicorns in my muffler who drained my blinker fluid" kinda threads...

I've talked to countless "Master Mechanics" over the years and they basically all say the same thing... "use what you want, as long at it meets your vehicles specs, the company paid a lot of $$ to put that spec on the label"... I doubt a name brand company like Havoline would lie about passing whatever they have on there label

Send off oil samples and see if the product is doing any harm or not

Havoline has done several Mercon tests and has the "pass/approval for use in" (directly from Havoline's website and bottle) :

Ford MERCON, MERCON V, MERCON SP and MERCON LV

Don't know why everyone jumps to arms over "oil"
Haha! No worries! I too, get a kick out of the arguments over there... I'm being purely tongue in cheek! I guess we could argue about Fram vs everyone else too, while we are at it... Hahahaha!

And, we can watch our drunk friends get in a fight over Chevy vs Ford later on.
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