Ssr xf250

[lethalsvt]

I have a 2015 ssr xf250 with about 500 miles on it now. Love the bike! Bone stock, so would like to add some performance parts like a better sounding and performing muffler, air filter and possibly the sigma jet kit.

I can't seem to find the exact muffler to order. I'm having my mechanic install everything. Does anyone have links to where I can get the exact parts? And are these upgrades even necessary? I drive mostly back roads less than 55mph, any maybe a trail here and there. Interested in a better exhaust note, little more pickup, and better mpg. But still maintaining reliability.

Thanks!

[dh]

Lethal it's good to have another XF250 owner here. The bike gets better and better as you put some miles on it. I have done modifications to my stock muffler and intake but have not replaced them. I have heard the FMF power core 4 is a good one for this bike. Here is a video below...

These bikes are more popular in other countries like the UK than they are here in the US. You can find aftermarket brake pads and upgrades from this UK site. I recommend getting a Haynes manual from them. User 1cylinderwonder had one listed for sale a while back so maybe check with him.

(https://www.chinesemotorcyclepartson...50GY/XF250GY/0)

[culcune]

Contact JP Motorsports out of San Diego; they might still have pipes they had custom made a few years back for these (or could be the 200?)...

https://jpmotorsports.com/

[dh]

After 3 years and almost 14,000 miles of riding the Xf 250 I've decided to deal with two of my least favorite aspects of this bike; the poor quality gauges and the tiny headlight. I have been putting a ton of miles on the XF commuting lately and figured it was time to invest in a few things for comfort and safety sake as it is getting darker earlier.

The stock gauges did not include a trip meter, the mini bulbs frequently burnt out, and the odometer always seemed to turn either too fast or too slow making it tough to calculate stops at the gas station. The headlight was ok but the high beam pointed up at the sky and it wasn't adjustable.

The new speedo is a $42 Amazon sourced Universal Grom Style digital LED back lit type. It has an odometer, trip, tach, neutral, gear indicators, and blinker high beam indicators. The backlight color is changeable and it reads in Km or Miles. Install was pretty simple, I had to cut and reconnect all wires with butt connectors. The speed sensor is installed through the fork guard and two magnets are attached to the front rotor. I had some programming issues with it and the odometer/trip did not work initially but after about 60 miles of riding they both fired up and they are very accurate. The speedo is also very accurate.

https://www.amazon.com/Samdo-Univers...al+speedometer

The $24 headlight/fairing also came from Amazon as well and it works OK but mounting is a NIGHTMARE; the light is meant to be mounted right up against the forks using the rubber fork straps; there is no room for a speedometer in between. I re positioned using custom bike inner tube strips and 1/2" irrigation drip line and it fits great! The light housing itself is can be aimed up or down.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The new light was better than stock but still doesn't blow me away so I ordered a set of 18w offroad flood lights from Amazon as well($16/pr). I am not sure how much my stator can handle so as of now I have 1 mounted on the front fender and it puts out good consistent flood light pattern.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I also added a new $10 set of heated hand grips and they work great! So far no issues with the battery charging while running the heated hand grips and about 25 watts going to LED lighting.

[dh]

[dh]

[Derekon2s]

DH,

Those gauges look NICE. Are they working well? Responsive? I've been busy dicking with this little Honda XR70, and I recently got a deal on a SSR 125 pitbike for 100 bucks. It's an older model,had to rebuild the carb, needs brake perch and master cylinder for the front, a chain, throttle cable and a couple other things. I finally got all my parts for my XF 250 and think I have my carb adjusted decently. I put in the bigger pilot jet from the Sigma kit and put in a 125 main jet. I was thinking about putting a pod style filter on it, but haven't measure the filter side of the carb to see what size it will take, but don't think i really need that big airbox on it. Been wanting to ride but the high is a balmy 12 degrees here today. lol

Hope everyone had a good xmas!

[dh]

Derekon great deal on the little pit bike. I tried really hard to find a deal like that for my son's 9th birthday but people never seem to respond to their ads on Craigslist or offerup so I ended up getting him a new Coleman minibike from WalMart. He loves it and I just realized yesterday it uses the same motor I have in my little Champion 1.5kw generator so maintenance is going to be easy.


I am liking the gauges a lot. Wiring was easy and the gauges are very responsive. Mounting was tricky; I ended up using scrap brackets from an old XF seat which worked perfectly. The initial programming was difficult as was a flaw in the speedo programming (I thought I wired it wrong) but the tech support from the Amazon seller (Samdo) was great; I feel like I get better support from their lady in China than I ever did from SSR.


I am having an intermittent problem though. Occasionally the speedo reading will start spiking up and down and then go to 00 while on the highway. This usually happens midway to work (88 miles one way) in an area that is incredibly windy and I pass under high voltage power lines and I would like to find out if the problem is environmental. The seller just sent me a new speed sensor and magnets to try and isolate the problem but I wonder if this is something I will just have to deal with; the seller has offered a replacement but I don't know if I feel like rewiring again.

[Weldangrind]

Do you have a MIG welder? If so, you're a bottle of tri-mix and a roll of SS wire away from welding stainless.

[Derekon2s]

I do have a Lincoln 110v Mig - but i figured by the time i bought a bottle and wire - I might as well just pay someone to do it for me. lol I don't have a need to weld stainless often at all. in fact, this is the first time.

[Weldangrind]

It became like an addiction for me. Especially when I realized I could grind down the welds with a non-ferrous grinder and polish the stainless. That's what prompted me to buy a polisher.

[JerryHawk250]

Nice work on the exhaust welds. Wow, the stock exhaust was a little restricted wasn't it? lol

[Derekon2s]

Weldandgrind,

How is it to weld stainless once you have the wire and tri-mix, compared to regular steel? Does it weld the same? I'm already annoyed at the thought of swapping out wire and gas. lol

[Weldangrind]

It's close enough to the same. You have to adjust voltage and wire speed a bit, although your Lincoln probably has a chart to guide you. Tri-mix produces a black, sooty weld, but it's easy to brush off. Just remember to use a SS wire brush.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

It's close enough to the same. You have to adjust voltage and wire speed a bit, although your Lincoln probably has a chart to guide you. Tri-mix produces a black, sooty weld, but it's easy to brush off. Just remember to use a SS wire brush.

90% of my welding experience (Both Tig and Mig) has been with stainless and aluminum. Pure Argon will create a much cleaner weld, but the weld bead will be very proud of the joint (high bead structure). The Helium in Tri-mix helps to actually flatten the bead out.

Stainless steel's higher melting point and thermal stability means it generally needs increased voltage. Occasionally you have to tinker with the wire speed a little bit, but that really comes down to the thickness of the material. Since stainless wire is much stiffer than standard welding wire, make sure the lead cable is as straight as possible. This will ensure a more consistent wire feed speed.

For open weld joints (but welds, tubing welds, etc,) the best thing you can do is back-fill the sectionb being welded with said shielding gas. This will prevent sugaring of the weld joint (black crystalline oxidation) and result in a stronger weld joint. It's not entirely necessary to do this, but just thought I would mention it.

Last tip, use a wire brush on the joints to clean off any potential coatings. Likely not an issue with said exhaust, but many stainless steels tend to come with some sort of coating or residue on them that can really mess up a weld.