New 2018 Hawk Prep - Page 4

JTHawk · 08-26-2018, 04:59 PM

does anyone have a link to a good LED tail light?

**JerryHawk250** · 08-26-2018, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JTHawk

does anyone have a link to a good LED tail light?

check the Sticky: Hawk resource guife at the top of the Dualsport section. Should have information on LED's in there.

ChrisWNY · 08-27-2018, 09:21 PM

Here's a lame question...cant figure out top from bottom on the new rear shock. Looks like the valve goes up top? Hard to tell...

Azhule · 08-27-2018, 09:58 PM

Left is the top I believe... should be able to read the "F <--> S" without standing on your head

ChrisWNY · 08-28-2018, 12:02 AM

Thanks Azhule - I installed the valve at the top - after searching Google it definitely looked like the left side (valve side) went up, F <---> S went down.

The Hawk sits slightly lower with the new rear shock installed (I'm about 5'10", 170 lbs...with the stock shock my toes touched, on the new one I can almost sit flat footed). The O-rings definitely slipped out on the bottom of the shock during the installation (similar to Kirk's experience), but I got everything on there with washers and spacers (greased everything up), no rubbing on the air box or bottoming out...the aftermarket shock is actually a tad narrower than the stock shock. It does feel a little bouncy though, a bit too much rebound. Will turning the knob toward F or S reduce the rebound in the rear shock? Does the small set screw above the F <-----> S adjust anything? I didn't mess around with the set screw and have no idea what it does.

It definitely sags a lot less than the stock rear shock though. Sags maybe a couple of inches at most when I sit on it. Haven't ridden on it yet but I am guessing it'll handle rough terrain substantially better than the stock rear shock, possibly without bottoming out.

Took about an hr or so to install...I initially thought I would have to remove the air box and strip more parts off the frame, but all you need to remove is the side body panels, the seat, and the battery (I also removed the battery bracket). The bottom of the shock was harder to deal with than the top because the chain gets in the way of the bolt installation. The washers were tricky but I just held them together with finger pressure and slid the bolt right through them. Thanks and kudos to Kirk for the pointers...3/8" washer size was perfect. I used 7 on the top...on the bottom I used a spare aluminum spacer (equivalent to the thickness of 5-6 washers) and 5 washers on the other side to get things just right. The bushings on my particular rear shock were the same thickness top and bottom, so the bottom bushing definitely requires more spacers/washers on both sides.

kirkallen143 · 08-28-2018, 01:04 PM

Bouncy? Yeah, turn the bottom clicker towards "S" (or slow) to cure that. Best is to ride it and then set it where it feel good to you.

Kirk

ChrisWNY · 08-29-2018, 09:16 AM

I turned it all the way to "S" then backed off a few clicks as the rebound was definitely a little slow/soft. Seems good to go 3-4 clicks from "S".

Had the chance to ride the Hawk on and off-road with the new shock installed yesterday evening. All I can say is wow, what a difference! The ride is substantially smoother...could run up a curb on the Hawk and barely feel it. Front/rear seem quite balanced...I changed the fork oil (used 200mL of 20W Maxima in each) about a month ago which definitely helped with dampening up front, and the stiffer rear now seems to match the front. No more bottoming out the shocks (not that they won't bottom out, it'll happen MUCH less frequently)! I like the slightly lower sitting position of the Hawk (sits about 1/2" lower), and it only sags slightly with my weight on it. Worthwhile upgrade...thanks Kirk for all the suggestions you provided!

kirkallen143 · 08-31-2018, 02:06 PM

No problem Chris, anytime.

Measured the rear suspension sag the other day, and I am @ 3 1/4" of sag. Means that I set the preload just about dead on, and that's good enough for me. Can't beat that...
Been slowly breaking in the engine with little 10 minute rides on our county road everyday, almost about to break that 200km barrier on the OD...watch out!
The engine's performance only gets better and better after every ride. Smooth quiet valve train, smoother shifting, starts at the flick of the button from cold, and even still idles after being ridden constant and then coming to a sudden stop.
Trying to save up some cash to upgrade the handlebars to "fat bars," with new pillow top grips and add a pair of Acerbis handguards. Anyone know how much rise the stock bars have? They almost remind me of the old school MX bars from the '70s.
The brand I was looking at has an ATV bend that has a rise of 4.75". That and with the 7/8" to 1 1/8" adapters adding a little more, will give me a more comfortable position while I ride standing.
That brings to mind another question, anyone tackle the footpegs yet with something a little more stable to stand on? Kind of hard to tell what matched with only catalog pictures to look at. I'll probably take one off and head to the motorcycle store and see if anything is close. I have done the weld on footpeg widener before, they just never came out "trick" looking, if you know what I mean.
Well, I rambled on too long and need to get back to work. Holler at y'all later.

Kirk

kirkallen143 · 10-11-2018, 03:11 PM

Got a couple of recent pics of the Hawk I thought I would share with ya. Also, I backed down the preload adjustment on the aftermarket shock to just a couple of turns out of the nut...It lowered the rear about another 1/2" that all, and no difference in ride quality. New 1 1/8" fat bars, pillow top grips, added hand guards, and cut off rear grab bars and replaced with a nylon strap (it's just a 24" suspension limiting strap I got off ebay). I thought I would have some wider pegs to show off, but I am still working on that...

Here ya go:

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08-27-2018, 09:58 PM	#49
Azhule Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: CO Posts: 1,525	Left is the top I believe... should be able to read the "F <--> S" without standing on your head __________________ "Think as you like... but this self proclaimed Professor is always right" - Buckshot "You never know what someone is hiding beneath their smile..." - NinjaTom - R.I.P.
	0

08-28-2018, 12:02 AM	#50
ChrisWNY Join Date: Jul 2018 Posts: 212	Thanks Azhule - I installed the valve at the top - after searching Google it definitely looked like the left side (valve side) went up, F <---> S went down. The Hawk sits slightly lower with the new rear shock installed (I'm about 5'10", 170 lbs...with the stock shock my toes touched, on the new one I can almost sit flat footed). The O-rings definitely slipped out on the bottom of the shock during the installation (similar to Kirk's experience), but I got everything on there with washers and spacers (greased everything up), no rubbing on the air box or bottoming out...the aftermarket shock is actually a tad narrower than the stock shock. It does feel a little bouncy though, a bit too much rebound. Will turning the knob toward F or S reduce the rebound in the rear shock? Does the small set screw above the F <-----> S adjust anything? I didn't mess around with the set screw and have no idea what it does. It definitely sags a lot less than the stock rear shock though. Sags maybe a couple of inches at most when I sit on it. Haven't ridden on it yet but I am guessing it'll handle rough terrain substantially better than the stock rear shock, possibly without bottoming out. Took about an hr or so to install...I initially thought I would have to remove the air box and strip more parts off the frame, but all you need to remove is the side body panels, the seat, and the battery (I also removed the battery bracket). The bottom of the shock was harder to deal with than the top because the chain gets in the way of the bolt installation. The washers were tricky but I just held them together with finger pressure and slid the bolt right through them. Thanks and kudos to Kirk for the pointers...3/8" washer size was perfect. I used 7 on the top...on the bottom I used a spare aluminum spacer (equivalent to the thickness of 5-6 washers) and 5 washers on the other side to get things just right. The bushings on my particular rear shock were the same thickness top and bottom, so the bottom bushing definitely requires more spacers/washers on both sides. __________________ 2018 RPS Hawk 250cc Mods so far: 1. Mikuni VM26 Carburetor w/#115 main jet 2. 17T/45T JT sprockets 3. JT 428 X-ring chain 4. Air box mod 5. Hawk Digital Cluster 6. Aftermarket IMS shift lever 7. Performance Aftermarket Exhaust 8. 295mm Nitrogen Gas Monoshock, 20W oil front forks Last edited by ChrisWNY; 08-28-2018 at 01:32 PM.
	0

08-29-2018, 09:16 AM	#52
ChrisWNY Join Date: Jul 2018 Posts: 212	I turned it all the way to "S" then backed off a few clicks as the rebound was definitely a little slow/soft. Seems good to go 3-4 clicks from "S". Had the chance to ride the Hawk on and off-road with the new shock installed yesterday evening. All I can say is wow, what a difference! The ride is substantially smoother...could run up a curb on the Hawk and barely feel it. Front/rear seem quite balanced...I changed the fork oil (used 200mL of 20W Maxima in each) about a month ago which definitely helped with dampening up front, and the stiffer rear now seems to match the front. No more bottoming out the shocks (not that they won't bottom out, it'll happen MUCH less frequently)! I like the slightly lower sitting position of the Hawk (sits about 1/2" lower), and it only sags slightly with my weight on it. Worthwhile upgrade...thanks Kirk for all the suggestions you provided! __________________ 2018 RPS Hawk 250cc Mods so far: 1. Mikuni VM26 Carburetor w/#115 main jet 2. 17T/45T JT sprockets 3. JT 428 X-ring chain 4. Air box mod 5. Hawk Digital Cluster 6. Aftermarket IMS shift lever 7. Performance Aftermarket Exhaust 8. 295mm Nitrogen Gas Monoshock, 20W oil front forks
	2

08-26-2018, 04:59 PM	#46
JTHawk Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 1	does anyone have a link to a good LED tail light?
	0

08-28-2018, 01:04 PM	#51
kirkallen143 Join Date: May 2015 Posts: 84	Bouncy? Yeah, turn the bottom clicker towards "S" (or slow) to cure that. Best is to ride it and then set it where it feel good to you. Kirk
	1

08-31-2018, 02:06 PM	#53
kirkallen143 Join Date: May 2015 Posts: 84	No problem Chris, anytime. Measured the rear suspension sag the other day, and I am @ 3 1/4" of sag. Means that I set the preload just about dead on, and that's good enough for me. Can't beat that... Been slowly breaking in the engine with little 10 minute rides on our county road everyday, almost about to break that 200km barrier on the OD...watch out! The engine's performance only gets better and better after every ride. Smooth quiet valve train, smoother shifting, starts at the flick of the button from cold, and even still idles after being ridden constant and then coming to a sudden stop. Trying to save up some cash to upgrade the handlebars to "fat bars," with new pillow top grips and add a pair of Acerbis handguards. Anyone know how much rise the stock bars have? They almost remind me of the old school MX bars from the '70s. The brand I was looking at has an ATV bend that has a rise of 4.75". That and with the 7/8" to 1 1/8" adapters adding a little more, will give me a more comfortable position while I ride standing. That brings to mind another question, anyone tackle the footpegs yet with something a little more stable to stand on? Kind of hard to tell what matched with only catalog pictures to look at. I'll probably take one off and head to the motorcycle store and see if anything is close. I have done the weld on footpeg widener before, they just never came out "trick" looking, if you know what I mean. Well, I rambled on too long and need to get back to work. Holler at y'all later. Kirk
	2