Project XL185/CG250 swap

[XLsior]

Things are cooling off weather wise here in Oz.


I went for a Sunday blurt on my local loop to clear the headspace as we do..


With the cooler autumnal weather taking effect going into winter the bike was loving the cooler, denser, crisp air...


However checking the plug read it appear the WOT lean condition is back again. on the 45p/132m mid clip current setting.


I will try a 136m and move the clip to 1st (leanest) position to see how it behaves... then play with the clip position for a bit.


I have ordered a "performance" CDI with DPI switch settings to test.


Though perhaps the dished Boao piston does not like the 4* adv timing key...?


I have also order a new valve and spring set and a Dynop 70mm flat top piston for future proofing and backup. But right now I do not want to remove the head while the bike is running ok for the most part.

[XLsior]

I think on average my mpg is about 57mpg US


The big bore might have dropped it a bit but overall the slight pulling power makes up for it.


Yes I have been running mostly lean condition and have not been shy of giving it the beans so I would be safe to say that 56-60 MPG is the average with soft panniers sticking out either side and about 90kg body weight.



I think the cheap X ring chain is robbing some power at the top as 65mph/ 100kmph is not that common to get. So average speed is 55mph.


But its getting the job done and TBH I'm not sure if i want to go any faster on the XL185 running technology...

[XLsior]

Ok I think I have discovered the Nibbi 28 and my 70mm dished piston BOAO big bore kit conflict limit issue that has been fish biting me above 7000rpm WOT.


The issue was a lean condition but it was not a result of main jet. The problem appears to be a fuel delivery cap due to the needle.



There seems to be fuel limit above a 135main jet and needle positions 1,2 and 3/mid clip.


I have gone to a 136 main and 4th needle clip position and the fish bite seems to have disappeared with more favorable spark plug reads in the nutty brown zone.


So I now have adjustability again and can actually dial in optimum fuel delivery...



Most users of the Nibbi 28 are not going passed 130 main on stock CG250 engine dynamics which is why the issue did not seem to present itself with other users.


Just thought I'd share my recent discovery.

[superjocko]

Can you please explain what you mean by "fish biting"? I've seen you mention it several times but I still don't understand what it's supposed to mean. I'll readily admit that I haven't read every post in this thread, so my apologies if you've already explained it.

[XLsior]

Ok when a fish bites and your holding a rod and line there is tug/lurch sensation.


On the bike riding wide open on the flat, was hitting 7000rpm ish and the engine hesitate for a split second which was the lean spot I couldn't get over using bigger jets.


you could call it a hesitation or stumble but it was so acute and repeatable under the same parameters that a fish bite was the best descriptive metaphor.


I was trying to use bigger jets and leaner needle position to 'cure' it.
But it is apparent now leaner jets and richer needle position was the issue all along. At least now I know the engine does not mind the 4th clip...but my jetting might need more adjustment now.

[XLsior]

perfect subtropical winter weather here in SE QLD Australia. Thought it'd be a good time to swap the chain back to standard DID from the china X'ring experiment. As i wanted to find out how much top end i was sacrificing thanks to o'ring friction loss...


Things were going well up until the point i discovered the recent cush hub bushings i replaced were utterly worn out to the point of not existing anymore...


So as it stands my only current running vehicle is the crunchy parts van...Which is frankly unacceptable.


I think Sunday will be timing the injection pump on the main van day...

[XLsior]

Replacing the cush hubs that replaced the polyeurathane cush hubs that replaced the original cush hubs...


Purchased a pack of 12, CG125 cush hub rubber bushings. Hopefully wont vaporize in about 2000km like the last set...

[XLsior]

Removed the faded ebay special soft saddle bags.


Installed the new waterproof Rigg Gear saddle bags.


I'd almost say they are practically air tight at first...



A definite upgrade. Can fit a decent amount of shopping.


Just don't make the mistake of doing up all the straps and then realizing you put them on back to front like I did.

[Crossbar]

I've got those same bags on my Templar. Was on a four day trip last week and got into some heavy rain and everything stayed dry in the bags.

[XLsior]

Took the sunday morning 2 wheel prayer session for a last spin on the Dunlop 605 rear.



Looking at my current ODO at 3130KM and then factoring in about another 2000km on the old dash I'd say the tire was good for 7000km mostly road surface work. (4500 miles or there abouts)


There's still enough center rubber to suggest it be fine for a bit more duty, But I only plan to have the bike road registered for another 6 months So opted to put on a pre purchased fresh Shinko 244 "Golden Boy"


Which with the full sun and pre warm ride the swap was about as good as it could go...I went with the silicone lubricant spray method...HD tube seems unscathed.


I did discover the 3rd set of cush hub bushings were borked ....again, Thankfully i purchased in bulk...but the durabilty of these CG125* hub bushings is pathetic...You might want to check yours every 500km at least if your rear wheel has them, and replace them genuine Honda.


Well replacing cush bushings and dealing with tubes has motivated more to scrimp and save for the CFmoto 450MT even more now...

[XLsior]

I'm tempted to keep the inner metal bush collars and maybe see if skateboard truck bushings will be a good fit for the hub...

[XLsior]

The actual Honda cush bushing part number is 41241-222-000 So that might be the best way to go about looking for a replacement if anyone need to replace their set...

[XLsior]

So curiosity got the better of me again.


I purchased 2 packs of DohsDohs 100Durometer 'Rock Hard' skate board truck bushings to compare to the Chineseium CG125 hub bushings and see how close they are to fitment...


I'd be inclined to say its almost perfect.


Stud fits fine, and the OD would appear to be a snug/tight fit in the hub pocket.


100a Durometer is about the hardest PE compound you can get...it gets softer with lower numbers...whether a softer compound would be better is tough to say given they are completely different applications and forces at play...


Not suggesting to do this as i am experimenting at this point after replacing bushings multiple times now.


But perhaps keeping some as backup spares on the road might be an easier emergency fix than carrying hub bushings themselves...


Might prevent stud snaps which is a even worse problem to remote fix,

[XLsior]

I checked the sparkplug and it's looking rich...


With the weather warming up it seems air density is dropping. I've gone from a 42pilot back down to a 40 then a 38 (stock) with the A/F btween 1.5 and 2 turns out.


Have not ridden it yet but after the 40 was installed top end WOT was effected again...current main jet a 142 on the 4th needle clip.



Decided to check the valve lash while I was at it...tightened intake a smidge.


Then I gave the rear sprocket a jiggle test at it appears yet again the cheap bushings are trash and dusted themselves in just 1 short ride to the shops and back...less than 1hour.


So I opted to install the skate truck bushings experiment as I really have nothing to lose at this point.


Wasn't any more difficult to do I put the coned piece in first and persuaded the main barrel bushing with a socket and hammer. A chamfered edge would help. both pieces combined was about perfect height so no risk of the bushing falling in deeper...and the diameter was about as tight as you could hope for without distorting the inner hole.


Studs went in with a few taps of the hammer around and the retaining spring clip went on no problem...


Minimal sprocket freeplay/slop. I'm actually really confident that this modification might be legit.



Also took 1 link out of the standard DID chain to regain some adjustment room as it was almost fully out with a 17t front.


Will take the bike for a ride tomorrow and see how the PE28FL responds to leaning out...I hope WOT won't get the hiccups again.

[XLsior]

So a trip to the shops via the scenic route... results are the bushings are holding up fantastic. There is definite improvement in direct feel, the clutch still engages smooth and the chain feels happier now not having to take up the slack...


So the skate truck bushing mod seems to be a success.




The 38pilot on the Nibbi PE28FL has killed the top end WOT again... lurching and no upper rev range...suspect lean again up top.


Hot starts are a bit hit or miss, fidgeting with the idle knob seems mandatory at this point irrespective of jetting...


I've ordered a new foam pod filter as the old one is working but worn from constant in/out installations.


Why the pilot jet seems such a major factor for WOT is a bit of pain...


All I can do now is up the main jet to compensate...


I know 42/142 4th clip works but it's rich now.



I'm thinking the dished BAOA 70mm piston top might be the contributing factor at this point, but I don't want to remove it if its running and basically new...