The OFFICIAL DS bike prep thread

[liverchip]

Which motor do you have Amad. The pushrod motors do have a bit of valve noise do to necessary clearance. As far as an oil leak, it's not uncommon for an older seal at the valve cover to leak if it's been pulled and not replaced with a new one, but if a new motor is leaking, then it's possible that the cover bolts have loosened or the seal was not properly set at the factory.

[liverchip]

Incidentally, I actually checked the clearance on mine while new and found the valves a bit tight. I set both the intake and exhaust to .05mm at TDC.

[amad]

I have the 200cc Lifan LF200GY-5. I checked the tightness of the valve cover...seemed tight. So I took it off and looked at the gasket...looked ok. I put it back on and tightened well. I'm going to go for a ride in a few minutes (25 degrees...oooh) and see how it does.

[mdsuave13]

hey amad, any updates on the engine? did you figure out what was going on?

[amad]

As it's breaking in, it seems to be getting a little better. I did notice that a lot of "squeaking" vibration is coming from the headlight. I think the headlight is rubbing against the plastic piece around it. Anybody have that problem?

[mdsuave13]

did your headlight housing have a rubber grommet for all 3 mounting bolts? cause mind did, and it doesnt squeak, but i can imagine that the plastic/metal combo may do that..

[sheadouglas]

Originally Posted by amad

As it's breaking in, it seems to be getting a little better. I did notice that a lot of "squeaking" vibration is coming from the headlight. I think the headlight is rubbing against the plastic piece around it. Anybody have that problem?

amad,
I have had the same little sound on my bike. It is extremely annoying, and yes I would love to be able to fix it. I've honestly just gotten used to it. If you are anything like me, I am picky over those darn small irritating sounds. Any suggestions out there how to fix this?

[mdsuave13]

are you talking about the headlight housing rubbing on the actual number plate assembly? or the whole assembly rubbing? when i took my headlight apart to paint it, it had quite a bit of adjustment in when i was putting it back together, maybe you should just take it apart and see if you cant loosen the screws holding the top of the headlight in and just try to move the light in the direction to center it up... thats what i had to do when i put it back together, otherwise i couldnt aim it correctly. (which i still need to do, i can see about 10 feet in front of the bike at the moment (at least i cant ride it yet )

[ambassador]

With the stock headlight 10 feet is pretty good....

[mdsuave13]

nah, i know with adjustment, i can see a helluva lot further! i am going to find a new type of headlight before summer...

[fatboy250]

For Roketa Models:

Ok, Dad and I have figured out the deal on this. If you look at the bottom of your rear break master cylinder (not the slave at the wheel) you will see where the armature pushing in has two linkages with a bolt and two nuts for adjustment. Well, even with the nuts in the lowest setting where the linkages are both resting on the top nut, the master cylinder armature is still being pushed into the master cylinder creating some pressure. So, you will need to permanantly remove the nut between the two linkages and shorten the bolt (a grinding wheel may work well) so that the two linkages are touching. This will allow the master cylinder armature to release all the way out. We believe it's not necessarily a design flaw, but more of where the weld ended up for the bracket that holds both the rear foot peg bracket and the master cylinder. If this bracket weld had been about 1/2" higher the master cylinder armature would be allowed to extend all the way out with the stock bolt and nuts adjustment.

Jason

[FMYStreetRacer]

not sure if this is common or not but.... if you roll your bike forward and you hit the front brake and something feels loose in the front end. do it again but this time have a finger on the chrome nut under the handle bars. if you feel that nut move read this thread: http://chinariders.net/modules.php?n...er=asc&start=0

[Jim]

Originally Posted by frostbite

Ensure to apply a thin layer of grease to the seal of the odometer housing on the front hub (LF200GY-2). Otherwise the rotation on the dry rubber seal will cause tearing.

Hey Frostbite, sorry to be a bit air headed here... but I cant see what your talking about, I looked at the front hub of mine and couldnt see anywhere I should put grease, could you maybe post a picture? Also what type of grease? like real blue grease?

And on the subject of grease, how much should I put in the swingarm, till I see it come out somewhere?

[mdsuave13]

the front speedo unit that is next to the wheel on the front axle.. there is a c-clip in there, i just took it apart, packed it full of blue axle grease and then put it back together and applied a layer of grease anywhere it would move or rub. I also made sure to lube the speedo cable very good so that i wouldnt have to worry about breakage... (hopefully)

[ambassador]

Jim,
You bought your bike assembled, most/some of us had ours drop shipped and had to put it together ourselves, hopefully your dealer did this in prep, I would check... My suggestion, strip it down, wheels and all, fix your tire problem while your at it, grease, oil and lube everything then loc-tite it all back together..