Won't start? - Page 3

pcspecialist · 05-21-2016, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GeneralTso

Forgot to mention it has a wicked backfire through the carb now too when I use starting fluid.

Intake valve not closing or ignition timing (though I don't see how it could get that out of time).

GeneralTso · 05-21-2016, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azhule

It could point to a clogged up carb/jet/airway on the carb too, make sure it's all clean and either poke them clean with a 'Wire Cleaner' or blow it out with an air gun/compressor.

Did you clean the gas tank up any or add a Fuel Filter to the fuel line before you attached the new carb? Seeing all the white crust build up on your old carb (used to be from the MMT added in the gas, it's now regulated/banned to use in most places now), I can only imagine what the inside of the Fuel Tank looked like

Tank was bad, not great but not horrible, it has a filter on the petcock which I cleaned. I don't have a air gun/compressor but I can run some wire through it just to be sure.

GeneralTso · 05-21-2016, 01:40 PM

So getting 60 psi consistently so maybe the valves are not the problem. Going to run a wire cleaner through the jets and see if that does anything.

Mudflap · 05-21-2016, 02:40 PM

60 lb compression isn't enough.

BTW: One thing that can cause spark timing to be off is a sheared flywheel key.

GeneralTso · 05-21-2016, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudflap

60 lb compression isn't enough.

BTW: One thing that can cause spark timing to be off is a sheared flywheel key.

Okay, so looks like I should have 100 psi at the bare minimum I don't know if just adjusting the valves will get me there but we'll see. Guess dropping the engine, checking the valves and maybe even pulling the head/cylinder if I'm lucky lol.

This is turning into a winter project, I just wanted to ride a little ha-ha.

GeneralTso · 05-21-2016, 03:49 PM

Okay, been reading and retested with multiple kicks and got it up to 92 psi. Still not where it needs to be but maybe enough for the valve adjustment to help. Just want to get it running for the summer then can redo the motor over the winter.

It was running so hopefully I can get it back.

GeneralTso · 05-21-2016, 04:13 PM

It was running, on starter fluid, this is totally a fuel issue. Pulled the carb, blew out the jets, all sounded clear, next going to eliminate the gas tank and line, I'll rig something up. This is something stupid!

Jayman77 · 05-21-2016, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GeneralTso

It was running, on starter fluid, this is totally a fuel issue. Pulled the carb, blew out the jets, all sounded clear, next going to eliminate the gas tank and line, I'll rig something up. This is something stupid!

Are you using original carburetor it might need to be rebuilt or replaced

BARLOW · 05-21-2016, 05:13 PM

open valve does just what you are saying ... it will run on starting fluid because 1. it does not need vacuum to get it out of the carb 2. it needs less compression to fire starting fluid

GeneralTso · 05-21-2016, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BARLOW

open valve does just what you are saying ... it will run on starting fluid because 1. it does not need vacuum to get it out of the carb 2. it needs less compression to fire starting fluid

Got the valve cover lifted enough to get the feeler gauge in there and no gap to speak of (yes I can see the "T" in the window). So you sir sound like you may have a winner. Now I have to drop the motor enough to get access to the adjusters BUT with no kickstand to support the bike my ATV lift is working against me. Okay I'll let you guys know after I figure out how to get at those adjusters.

So I feel better, but funny thing is I was thinking this the issue from the start as I had the same problem with my mower.

GeneralTso · 05-21-2016, 05:45 PM

From what I can find looks like .008 on exhaust and .005 on intake, that sound about right?

BARLOW · 05-21-2016, 05:58 PM

the "T" will be on top at the right place ant the wrong place, it could be 180 off still ... hold your finger over the spark plug hole till you feel air pushing, the bring the "T" to the top

GeneralTso · 05-21-2016, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BARLOW

the "T" will be on top at the right place ant the wrong place, it could be 180 off still ... hold your finger over the spark plug hole till you feel air pushing, the bring the "T" to the top

Yup, no discernable gap.

GeneralTso · 05-21-2016, 06:37 PM

Okay, set gap, kicked it over a few times with plug out, rechecked gap. I'll button her up later and see if there is any change in prognosis.

GeneralTso · 05-22-2016, 10:06 AM

Got the motor dropped and the valves adjusted yesterday afternoon, putting it all back together today and see if she will start.
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Name: 20160521_173851.jpg
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05-21-2016, 01:40 PM	#33
GeneralTso Join Date: May 2016 Location: Middle TN Posts: 312	So getting 60 psi consistently so maybe the valves are not the problem. Going to run a wire cleaner through the jets and see if that does anything. __________________ 2005 Kazuma Cheetah 200 (Swamp Thing)
	0

05-21-2016, 03:49 PM	#36
GeneralTso Join Date: May 2016 Location: Middle TN Posts: 312	Okay, been reading and retested with multiple kicks and got it up to 92 psi. Still not where it needs to be but maybe enough for the valve adjustment to help. Just want to get it running for the summer then can redo the motor over the winter. It was running so hopefully I can get it back. __________________ 2005 Kazuma Cheetah 200 (Swamp Thing)
	0

05-21-2016, 04:13 PM	#37
GeneralTso Join Date: May 2016 Location: Middle TN Posts: 312	It was running, on starter fluid, this is totally a fuel issue. Pulled the carb, blew out the jets, all sounded clear, next going to eliminate the gas tank and line, I'll rig something up. This is something stupid! __________________ 2005 Kazuma Cheetah 200 (Swamp Thing)
	0

05-21-2016, 05:45 PM	#41
GeneralTso Join Date: May 2016 Location: Middle TN Posts: 312	From what I can find looks like .008 on exhaust and .005 on intake, that sound about right? __________________ 2005 Kazuma Cheetah 200 (Swamp Thing)
	0

05-21-2016, 06:37 PM	#44
GeneralTso Join Date: May 2016 Location: Middle TN Posts: 312	Okay, set gap, kicked it over a few times with plug out, rechecked gap. I'll button her up later and see if there is any change in prognosis. __________________ 2005 Kazuma Cheetah 200 (Swamp Thing)
	0

05-21-2016, 02:40 PM	#34
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,872	60 lb compression isn't enough. BTW: One thing that can cause spark timing to be off is a sheared flywheel key.
	1

05-21-2016, 05:13 PM	#39
BARLOW Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: central illinois Posts: 362	open valve does just what you are saying ... it will run on starting fluid because 1. it does not need vacuum to get it out of the carb 2. it needs less compression to fire starting fluid
	0

05-21-2016, 05:58 PM	#42
BARLOW Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: central illinois Posts: 362	the "T" will be on top at the right place ant the wrong place, it could be 180 off still ... hold your finger over the spark plug hole till you feel air pushing, the bring the "T" to the top
	0

05-22-2016, 10:06 AM	#45
GeneralTso Join Date: May 2016 Location: Middle TN Posts: 312	Got the motor dropped and the valves adjusted yesterday afternoon, putting it all back together today and see if she will start. __________________ 2005 Kazuma Cheetah 200 (Swamp Thing)
	0