My Honda XR650L Oil Cooler Project

[SpudRider]

I can get "plastic canvas," or vinyl weave at a crafts store. Do you think 7 holes per linear inch is too small?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic_canvas

Spud

[katoranger]

I think that the smaller holes will quickly clog. One thought I had. Drill a stock fender with alot of 3/16 holes. Maybe 1/4". I don't think anything smaller than a 1/4" will hurt anything.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by pete

Most of its made in a lathe apart from the flats that were milled..
oil goes in one section flows across though the brass nipple into
the other sction then out... It was only going to be one section but
I had the room so made a second section in the end..

I have a lathe & mill in my home shop..


By petenz at 2012-03-29

Simply genius! Thanks for sharing that with us. I might think about a similar project for my XR.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

I can get "plastic canvas," or vinyl weave at a crafts store. Do you think 7 holes per linear inch is too small?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic_canvas

Spud

Too small clogs the holes, too large allows the mud to clog the cooler. it might just take some experimentation.

I still like the cooling ducts.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by katoranger

I think that the smaller holes will quickly clog. One thought I had. Drill a stock fender with alot of 3/16 holes. Maybe 1/4". I don't think anything smaller than a 1/4" will hurt anything.

I like that idea a lot, Allen! Thank you.

I think it would be pretty hard for any sizeable rock to make it past a 1/4" hole in the fender. Also, I can drill 3/16" holes, and enlarge them later if I wish. In addition, I don't need to worry about purchasing and attaching mesh to the fender, and I don't need to worry about rusting steel.

I am considering arranging the holes in rectangular blocks, as shown in the photograph below.



If I don't like the way the holes perform, I could always cut out the rectangles later, and install mesh. :idea: What do you guys think?

Spud

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

...Too small clogs the holes, too large allows the mud to clog the cooler. it might just take some experimentation.

I still like the cooling ducts.

The radiator duct fender is indeed, a "cool" idea. Thank you for bringing it to my attention, Weld. I wish I could see one in person; it would help me decide if I like the way it looked on my XR650L motorcycle.



I think I now realize how the scoops work! :idea: The forks pass the fender in the middle of the scoops. However, the forks don't completely block the air scoops; the forks merely reduce the size of the hole in the air scoops. The air exits the rear of the scoops, and is deflected downward toward the radiators on either side of the frame.

It would appear the size, and placement of the fork scallops is critical. I'm not sure one of these fenders designed for a Honda CRF would fit my XR650L. :?

Spud

[FastDoc]

A top tip for you Spud.

Use a STEP drill from HF to drill the holes from the inside. This will self-deburr and leave a perfect result.

[SpudRider]

I continue to like FastDoc's idea of employing "summer" and "winter" fenders. Instead of installing some type of velcro "bra" to the oil cooler in colder weather, I could just install the "winter" fender which lacks the air holes.

Speaking of oil cooler "bras," what is a good material for this purpose? My oil cooler is a 4-inch square. Therefore, if I had a rectangular piece of material 4" wide by 10-1/2" long, I could secure this material around the oil cooler with a velcro strip.

I thought about installing a Jagg oil bypass, but my hose lines are too short to accommodate one of these units.

http://www.jagg.com/by-pass.htm



Spud

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by FastDoc

A top tip for you Spud.

Use a STEP drill from HF to drill the holes from the inside. This will self-deburr and leave a perfect result.

As always, thanks for the good tip, Doc. I see the step drills bits are on sale at Harbor Freight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...tep+drill+bits

Spud

[FastDoc]

Just wrap some tape on the bit at the correct depth so you don't cut too big a hole.

Used in plastic it gives a very nice result.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

I continue to like FastDoc's idea of employing "summer" and "winter" fenders. Instead of installing some type of velcro "bra" to the oil cooler in colder weather, I could just install the "winter" fender which lacks the air holes.

Speaking of oil cooler "bras," what is a good material for this purpose? My oil cooler is a 4-inch square. Therefore, if I had a rectangular piece of material 4" wide by 10-1/2" long, I could secure this material around the oil cooler with a velcro strip.

I thought about installing a Jagg oil bypass, but my hose lines are too short to accommodate one of these units.

http://www.jagg.com/by-pass.htm



Spud

If you don't ride below freezing, I can't see that a cooler bypass would be necessary. Automatic transmissions have an automatic bypass valve for that purpose, but it doesn't activate until it's really cold out.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

If you don't ride below freezing, I can't see that a cooler bypass would be necessary. Automatic transmissions have an automatic bypass valve for that purpose, but it doesn't activate until it's really cold out.

As always, thank you for the excellent advice, Weld. I don't have room to install the oil bypass, and I didn't want to spend the extra money any way. I feel better omitting the oil bypass based upon your reply.

Spud

[FastDoc]

Heck even on an airplane if it's too cold we just put duct tape over the oil cooler. I imagine the same 'technology' would work on an XR.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by FastDoc

Heck even on an airplane if it's too cold we just put duct tape over the oil cooler. I imagine the same 'technology' would work on an XR.

Yes, but the "fancy schmancy," oil bypass valve is much more "chic."

Spud

[SpudRider]

Yesterday I fitted the front fender to its final configuration with the oil cooler. The factory position of the fender will not accommodate a centrally mounted oil cooler, so I needed to move the fender out from the frame about 1-1/4 inches. Here is a photo of the fender in its final position.



I got the clearance between the oil cooler and the fender by shimming the fender lower. I lowered the two front bolts of the fender by 9/16-inch. I lowered the two rear bolts of the fender by 11/16-inch. I am still waiting for a final brass fitting before I can plumb the oil cooler into the bike's external oil line.

Spud