The OFFICIAL DS bike prep thread - Page 2

gyjoe · 09-23-2006, 12:08 AM

The part number for the 25x47x7 grease seal at bikebandit.com is 5086739.

mule3010 · 10-24-2006, 10:34 AM

When checking spoke tension and adjusting be careful not to over tighten or tighten out of sequence.
Joe

mule3010 · 10-26-2006, 11:19 AM

I mentioned this in another post but be sure to route and properly clamp the spark plug wire. Mine worked loose from the clamp on the cooling fins on the back of the engine and got badly burned on the pipe. It melted the insulator and the protective plastic heat sheild in a relatively short period. (10-15 min.)
Joe

BCrider · 10-30-2006, 12:54 PM

The rear oil seal needs to be changed from the 27mm id to the 25mm id for sure. Where does the electric block(resister) bolt to??In the headlamp area. Also I am short a brake caliper bolt for the front any clue who would stock them ?? The choke cable looks to be to short anyone hae that problem?? Haven't started it up yet anything more that I need to look for?? Thanks in advance

NewEnglandTrails · 10-30-2006, 04:44 PM

BCrider, Welcome to China Riders!

The only question I can answer is about the front caliper bolt.

Before I joined this sight I found out the hard way about loctiting bolts.. When I lost a front caliper bolt, I just went to my local hardware shop and matched up the remaining bolt. Added lock washers, Loctited both bolts and its been fine since.

What brand 200-GY do you have anyway?

New England Trails!!!!

BCrider · 10-31-2006, 08:07 AM

LIfan

fatboy250 · 10-31-2006, 09:59 AM

My battery box (all steel construction) came apart yesterday. I finally realized something was wrong when I pulled into the gas station and saw my battery swinging in the wind with the cage still bolted around it. The two parts that bolts to the frame were still loc-tited and bolted to the frame. It appears they only tac-weld the cage and the tac-welds all broke after 500miles of riding. So, I had to go buy some JB weld and I still have it clamped and curing now. So, I'll let you know if it holds up or not. May want to check yours if you have this type.
Jason

ImEazy · 10-31-2006, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fatboy250

May want to check yours if you have this type.

I have the plastic battery box. I wrapped two sets of zip ties around
the battery box and frame/seat rail just for this reason. I've since
found a web strap that I plan to install one day.

dlunt · 10-31-2006, 08:49 PM

The GY-5's battery box is metal and squished in between the engine, seat, tank and frame. I figure even if it works loose it isn't going anywhere.

fatboy250 · 11-01-2006, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dlunt

The GY-5's battery box is metal and squished in between the engine, seat, tank and frame. I figure even if it works loose it isn't going anywhere.

That's about where I want to finally install mine. Right now it's in the stock loctation (hanging out the back left side of the bike) 8O I guess the 10yr old that put it together also engineered this idea. Very few complaints otherwise.

fatboy250 · 11-15-2006, 11:02 AM

In reference to the swingarm grease fitting:

Also, I forgot to mention Dad and I removed the stock grease fitting for the swingarm axle and put in a new "standard" fitting. We then proceeded to pump and pump and pump and pump grease about 14-16 pumps until it was full. You guys may want to look into this. We couldn't get the grease gun to hook up to the stock fitting. It was too small and short. Ride quality seems to be a bit better since.

Jason

fatboy250 · 01-22-2007, 09:55 AM

You may want to reinforce the mounting holes on your side covers before installing them. I have pulled through on both the mounting holes and the holes are now the size of the mounting screw heads at both bottom locations. Not sure how to fix it at this point, but some fiberglass reinforcement on the backside could have maybe prevented this.

fatboy250 · 02-07-2007, 08:03 AM

If any of you guys decide to attach a case to your rear rack, keep an eye on the welds and stress points. Mine finally bit the dust after 3100miles. I know I was probably riding too hard with too much in the case most of the time, but that's just how it is

Dad decided not to bother welding it again since it just broke in a different location this second time. He said he'll make a rack support for the new rack when I get it, that will bolt right to the frame under the center of the fender.

Jason

amad · 02-16-2007, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gyjoe

Make sure your headlight fairing is insulated from vibration. Mine had good rubber bushings for the mounting screws on the sides, but the mounting strap on the underside of the fairing was only provided with a rubber washer for the outside and not where the strap attaches on the inside of the fairing, providing a direct route for vibration to the headlight bulb. Some have had problems with headlight life, and this could be one thing that is causing a problem. The rubber chain slider works at first, but mine will be worn through to the mounting screw within the first 500 miles. Start looking for a more wear-and friction resistant material (such as nylon) to replace it with.

What mounting strap? All I could figure out was that the headlight assembly had two bolts on the sides and one screw in the middle at the bottom front. And my bike does have a very annoying rattling vibration at certain rpms that could be coming from that.

amad · 02-16-2007, 08:05 PM

Also, there seems to be a lot of chatter coming from the top end of the motor. Has anyone had to adjust the valves when it was new? Also, I asked this in another thread, but has anyone had any oil leaks when it is new? I thought it looked like it was coming from around the exhaust header, but it may be coming from the valve cover. Has anyone had to tighten the valve cover?

09-23-2006, 12:08 AM	#16
gyjoe Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Duluth, MN Posts: 230	The part number for the 25x47x7 grease seal at bikebandit.com is 5086739. __________________ 2006 Lifan LF200GY-5
	0

10-26-2006, 11:19 AM	#18
mule3010 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Louisville, KY. Posts: 85	I mentioned this in another post but be sure to route and properly clamp the spark plug wire. Mine worked loose from the clamp on the cooling fins on the back of the engine and got badly burned on the pipe. It melted the insulator and the protective plastic heat sheild in a relatively short period. (10-15 min.) Joe __________________ <li>2007 Roketa RSX-E 200<br />03 Kawasaki mule 3010 620cc 4x4 utv<br />02 Polaris Trailblazer 250cc 2 stroker<br />06 Roketa RTU-90 ATV<br />06 Roketa Bermuda 150cc Scooter<br />05 3500 Dodge/Cummins&
	0

10-30-2006, 04:44 PM	#20
NewEnglandTrails Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: The Quiet Corner of CT. Posts: 387	Front Caliper bolt BCrider, Welcome to China Riders! The only question I can answer is about the front caliper bolt. Before I joined this sight I found out the hard way about loctiting bolts.. When I lost a front caliper bolt, I just went to my local hardware shop and matched up the remaining bolt. Added lock washers, Loctited both bolts and its been fine since. What brand 200-GY do you have anyway? New England Trails!!!!
	1

10-31-2006, 09:59 AM	#22
fatboy250 Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: COLUMBIA, SC Posts: 973	Battery Box My battery box (all steel construction) came apart yesterday. I finally realized something was wrong when I pulled into the gas station and saw my battery swinging in the wind with the cage still bolted around it. The two parts that bolts to the frame were still loc-tited and bolted to the frame. It appears they only tac-weld the cage and the tac-welds all broke after 500miles of riding. So, I had to go buy some JB weld and I still have it clamped and curing now. So, I'll let you know if it holds up or not. May want to check yours if you have this type. Jason __________________ 2008 Jonway MC-70-150 2007 Roketa DB-07B (RSM-200E) 2006 Roketa DB-07A (RSX-200E) 1995 Kawasaki Concours (ZG1000)
	0

10-31-2006, 08:49 PM	#24
dlunt Join Date: May 2006 Location: Camby, Indiana Posts: 494	The GY-5's battery box is metal and squished in between the engine, seat, tank and frame. I figure even if it works loose it isn't going anywhere. __________________ 2006 Flywing(Jianshe)100 2002 Suzuki DR650
	0

10-24-2006, 10:34 AM	#17
mule3010 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Louisville, KY. Posts: 85	When checking spoke tension and adjusting be careful not to over tighten or tighten out of sequence. Joe
	0

10-30-2006, 12:54 PM	#19
BCrider Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 6	The rear oil seal needs to be changed from the 27mm id to the 25mm id for sure. Where does the electric block(resister) bolt to??In the headlamp area. Also I am short a brake caliper bolt for the front any clue who would stock them ?? The choke cable looks to be to short anyone hae that problem?? Haven't started it up yet anything more that I need to look for?? Thanks in advance
	0

10-31-2006, 08:07 AM	#21
BCrider Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 6	LIfan
	0

11-15-2006, 11:02 AM	#26
fatboy250 Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: COLUMBIA, SC Posts: 973	In reference to the swingarm grease fitting: Also, I forgot to mention Dad and I removed the stock grease fitting for the swingarm axle and put in a new "standard" fitting. We then proceeded to pump and pump and pump and pump grease about 14-16 pumps until it was full. You guys may want to look into this. We couldn't get the grease gun to hook up to the stock fitting. It was too small and short. Ride quality seems to be a bit better since. Jason __________________ 2008 Jonway MC-70-150 2007 Roketa DB-07B (RSM-200E) 2006 Roketa DB-07A (RSX-200E) 1995 Kawasaki Concours (ZG1000)
	1

01-22-2007, 09:55 AM	#27
fatboy250 Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: COLUMBIA, SC Posts: 973	You may want to reinforce the mounting holes on your side covers before installing them. I have pulled through on both the mounting holes and the holes are now the size of the mounting screw heads at both bottom locations. Not sure how to fix it at this point, but some fiberglass reinforcement on the backside could have maybe prevented this. __________________ 2008 Jonway MC-70-150 2007 Roketa DB-07B (RSM-200E) 2006 Roketa DB-07A (RSX-200E) 1995 Kawasaki Concours (ZG1000)
	0

02-07-2007, 08:03 AM	#28
fatboy250 Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: COLUMBIA, SC Posts: 973	If any of you guys decide to attach a case to your rear rack, keep an eye on the welds and stress points. Mine finally bit the dust after 3100miles. I know I was probably riding too hard with too much in the case most of the time, but that's just how it is Dad decided not to bother welding it again since it just broke in a different location this second time. He said he'll make a rack support for the new rack when I get it, that will bolt right to the frame under the center of the fender. Jason __________________ 2008 Jonway MC-70-150 2007 Roketa DB-07B (RSM-200E) 2006 Roketa DB-07A (RSX-200E) 1995 Kawasaki Concours (ZG1000)
	0

02-16-2007, 08:05 PM	#30
amad Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Tennessee Posts: 59	Also, there seems to be a lot of chatter coming from the top end of the motor. Has anyone had to adjust the valves when it was new? Also, I asked this in another thread, but has anyone had any oil leaks when it is new? I thought it looked like it was coming from around the exhaust header, but it may be coming from the valve cover. Has anyone had to tighten the valve cover?
	0