Brake it too me slowly! - Page 2

Spins · 02-18-2020, 08:48 PM

I finished flushing and bleeding the brakes. I have it set up with the a zip holding the brake lever in slightly. I tapped on everything attempting to loosen any trapped bubbles.

I’m planning on removing the caliper tomorrow night and hit the pads with some sand paper. Then take her for a spin.

franque · 02-19-2020, 04:21 AM

Don't do DOT 3, 4 is better, 3 is outdated.

Spins · 02-19-2020, 07:32 AM

I went with Dot 3. I know Dot 4 has a higher boiling point. It should be fine. This isn’t a track bike. I’m normally tooling around in the 40-50 mph. Hopefully the purge and bleed works.

bogieboy · 02-19-2020, 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roundhouse

I flushed all the fluid in my hawk and it helped some but it was not until I hit my rotors with a sanding block and 800 grit sand paper then I pulled the pads and scuffed them up too on a flat surface. It made a big difference. I rode pretty easy on the brakes for 100 miles then when I clamped down they grabbed real good.

I do not know why but the rotors were glazed up. I bought my bike used though.

Note: I am not a mechanic and this may not be the right thing to do. It worked for me though.

Oh +1 for the pun

not the greatest procedure for breakin on brakes... i prefer this method: https://www.autozone.com/diy/brakes/bedding-brakes

i have used this on every set of pads i have used, and all with great performance, wether on my Bicycle disc brakes, my dodge truck, motorcycle brakes, car brakes etc... its all about building a layer of brake pad compound on the rotor, and doing it evenly, hence the not stopping with hot brakes...

Spins · 02-19-2020, 09:12 AM

Thanks for the info. I vaguely remember reading this years ago on a car forum.

Spins · 02-20-2020, 08:35 PM

I attempted to break in the brakes as bogieboy suggested. I did this last night and let everything cool down as it was late. I took the bike out tonight. I would say the brakes are marginally better.
Perhaps I’m asking for too much. I was testing the bike after doing my first valve job. Probably the longest valve job on record. lol! The bike idles much better now.

Spins · 03-23-2020, 08:27 PM

New brake problem.
After bleeding the brakes with the vac pump and breaking them in they do work better. Now the break lever will pull in when at a stop. After about 30 sec of constant pressure the lever will touch the grip. Not good! I had a friend pump the lever then hold, I released the fitting on the caliper and bleed the lines this way. I did this several times and refilled reservoir. No change. Brakes stop and pump up but....

Any ideas?

Bruces · 03-23-2020, 08:37 PM

Is the fluid level dropping ?sounds-like you might have a tiny leak in the system ,

Spins · 03-23-2020, 08:56 PM

No leaks, that I can see. Never had the issue until I opened the system.

bogieboy · 03-23-2020, 09:46 PM

Did you add good brake fluid? I had this happen when i mistook power steering fluid for brake fluid. It cooked the seal in the master cylinder...

Spins · 03-23-2020, 09:59 PM

I used Auto Zone brand dot 3. Figured it was better than the OEM stuff from China. It’s an enduro that barely does 70mph on a good day ,not a race bike. I didn’t see the need for a DOT 4.

Kenstogie · 03-23-2020, 10:15 PM

though i have bled a few brakes in my day i am no expert......sounds like there may still be air in them.... tapping the entire system and also flushing again may do the trick....

fwiw my tbr7 brakes are pretty lame currently but i have only had it up and running one day and have yet to flush the brake system.... of course that helps you in no way.

Spins · 03-23-2020, 10:36 PM

I had the same issue . At first . The rotor must be cleaned well first. I bedded the brakes as another member suggested with a link. It worked. They improved greatly over time.

Could I have damaged something using the vacuum pump? I started thinking about it. When I used the vac I didn’t use a zip tie to hold the lever towards the grip. I simply removed the master cylinder lid and opened the valve on the caliper with vacuum tube attached. I kept the pressure within the correct limits. Drained and refilled the reservoir several times without completely emptying it.

franque · 03-24-2020, 03:05 AM

Just attach the brake lever to a broom, tie the lever down, and hold it vertically overnight, unless you've got air in the caliper it'll get it all.

Megadan · 03-24-2020, 10:54 AM

Assuming you still don't have a tiny bit of air still trapped in the system, you also just may have a slightly bad master cylinder piston seal. This would allow you to build pressure, but over time the pressure will bleed off as the fluid escapes around the piston seal back into the reservoir. It wouldn't be that unheard of on these cheap bikes.

03-23-2020, 10:15 PM	#27
Kenstogie Join Date: Apr 2019 Posts: 336	though i have bled a few brakes in my day i am no expert......sounds like there may still be air in them.... tapping the entire system and also flushing again may do the trick.... fwiw my tbr7 brakes are pretty lame currently but i have only had it up and running one day and have yet to flush the brake system.... of course that helps you in no way. __________________ been around bikes for a while.... honda 72 cb200t, zuki 96?/2002 katana, 12 vstrom,09 vstar, kawi ltd440, 82 zuki Gs1100, Tao Tbr7 all about the Tao MotorsTBR7 http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=25553
	0

03-24-2020, 10:54 AM	#30
Megadan Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 8,020	Assuming you still don't have a tiny bit of air still trapped in the system, you also just may have a slightly bad master cylinder piston seal. This would allow you to build pressure, but over time the pressure will bleed off as the fluid escapes around the piston seal back into the reservoir. It wouldn't be that unheard of on these cheap bikes. __________________ Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124
	0

02-18-2020, 08:48 PM	#16
Spins Join Date: Jan 2020 Posts: 287	I finished flushing and bleeding the brakes. I have it set up with the a zip holding the brake lever in slightly. I tapped on everything attempting to loosen any trapped bubbles. I’m planning on removing the caliper tomorrow night and hit the pads with some sand paper. Then take her for a spin.
	1

02-19-2020, 04:21 AM	#17
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	Don't do DOT 3, 4 is better, 3 is outdated.
	0

02-19-2020, 07:32 AM	#18
Spins Join Date: Jan 2020 Posts: 287	I went with Dot 3. I know Dot 4 has a higher boiling point. It should be fine. This isn’t a track bike. I’m normally tooling around in the 40-50 mph. Hopefully the purge and bleed works.
	2

02-19-2020, 09:12 AM	#20
Spins Join Date: Jan 2020 Posts: 287	Thanks for the info. I vaguely remember reading this years ago on a car forum.
	1

02-20-2020, 08:35 PM	#21
Spins Join Date: Jan 2020 Posts: 287	I attempted to break in the brakes as bogieboy suggested. I did this last night and let everything cool down as it was late. I took the bike out tonight. I would say the brakes are marginally better. Perhaps I’m asking for too much. I was testing the bike after doing my first valve job. Probably the longest valve job on record. lol! The bike idles much better now.
	0

03-23-2020, 08:27 PM	#22
Spins Join Date: Jan 2020 Posts: 287	New brake problem. After bleeding the brakes with the vac pump and breaking them in they do work better. Now the break lever will pull in when at a stop. After about 30 sec of constant pressure the lever will touch the grip. Not good! I had a friend pump the lever then hold, I released the fitting on the caliper and bleed the lines this way. I did this several times and refilled reservoir. No change. Brakes stop and pump up but.... Any ideas?
	0

03-23-2020, 08:37 PM	#23
Bruces Join Date: May 2018 Posts: 1,579	Is the fluid level dropping ?sounds-like you might have a tiny leak in the system ,
	0

03-23-2020, 08:56 PM	#24
Spins Join Date: Jan 2020 Posts: 287	No leaks, that I can see. Never had the issue until I opened the system.
	0

03-23-2020, 09:46 PM	#25
bogieboy Join Date: May 2013 Location: finger lakes NY Posts: 2,045	Did you add good brake fluid? I had this happen when i mistook power steering fluid for brake fluid. It cooked the seal in the master cylinder...
	2

03-23-2020, 09:59 PM	#26
Spins Join Date: Jan 2020 Posts: 287	I used Auto Zone brand dot 3. Figured it was better than the OEM stuff from China. It’s an enduro that barely does 70mph on a good day ,not a race bike. I didn’t see the need for a DOT 4.
	0

03-23-2020, 10:36 PM	#28
Spins Join Date: Jan 2020 Posts: 287	I had the same issue . At first . The rotor must be cleaned well first. I bedded the brakes as another member suggested with a link. It worked. They improved greatly over time. Could I have damaged something using the vacuum pump? I started thinking about it. When I used the vac I didn’t use a zip tie to hold the lever towards the grip. I simply removed the master cylinder lid and opened the valve on the caliper with vacuum tube attached. I kept the pressure within the correct limits. Drained and refilled the reservoir several times without completely emptying it.
	0

03-24-2020, 03:05 AM	#29
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	Just attach the brake lever to a broom, tie the lever down, and hold it vertically overnight, unless you've got air in the caliper it'll get it all.
	0