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Old 04-03-2017, 09:15 AM   #16
Ski_rush   Ski_rush is offline
 
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Originally Posted by goat67 View Post
I hope you get it back together.

I think I will just dump the oil out and not take it apart when I change the oil in mine.
Any reason this is not a good idea?
I obviously don't know much about this, as I am still in the middle of it, but personally...I might looking into doing it that way if I had to do it again.


 
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Old 04-03-2017, 10:11 AM   #17
Merlin   Merlin is offline
 
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Originally Posted by goat67 View Post
I hope you get it back together.

I think I will just dump the oil out and not take it apart when I change the oil in mine.
Any reason this is not a good idea?
That's how I do it.
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Old 04-03-2017, 12:01 PM   #18
Ski_rush   Ski_rush is offline
 
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Front Fork Update

Here's the update on the front forks.

This morning, I went to the hardware store and they happened to have an exact hex bolt as the one that is used at the bottom of the fork. It's black, but other than that, it was the exact same bolt. I went straight home and tried it and wouldn't you know...it tightened just fine. I was able to torque to the specified torque and it didn't spin at all. I didn't even need to use the broom handle trick. Instead, I temporarily put the spring back in and the fork cap on and put some weight back on the front tire to push the piston down. I will just assume that something was wrong with that hex bolt, although it looked okay.

I put the fork oil in, and then torqued the cap bolts. I should be okay, but in the meantime, I'll check for leaks. It shouldn't leak; just saying.

Am I glad I changed the fork oil? I would say so. Here is a pic (see below) of the factory fork oil, and keep in mind my bike has under 20 miles on it. What are your thoughts on this? To me, it seems like it was under filled (about 4 oz), and I wouldn't think "new" fork oil should look like this.




Last edited by Ski_rush; 04-03-2017 at 12:58 PM.
 
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Old 04-03-2017, 12:10 PM   #19
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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That is low. Mine wasn't quiet as clean as that and had about 6 oz. in each. But I had over 500 miles on mine.
Does your wife know your are using her favorite measuring cup?
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Old 04-03-2017, 01:02 PM   #20
Merlin   Merlin is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Ski_rush View Post
Here's the update on the front forks.

This morning, I went to the hardware store and they happened to have an exact hex bolt as the one that is used at the bottom of the fork. It's black, but other than that, it was the exact same bolt. I went straight home and tried it and wouldn't you know...it tightened just fine. I was able to torque to the specified torque and it didn't spin at all. I didn't even need to use the broom handle trick. Instead, I temporarily put the spring back in and the fork cap on and put some weight back on the front tire to push the piston down. I will just assume that something was wrong with that hex bolt, although it looked okay.

I put the fork oil in, and then torqued the cap bolts. I should be okay, but in the meantime, I'll check for leaks. It shouldn't leak; just saying.

Am I glad I changed the fork oil? I would say so. Here is a pic (see below) of the factory fork oil, and keep in mind my bike has under 20 miles on it. What are your thoughts on this? To me, it seems like it was under filled (about 4 oz), and I wouldn't think "new" fork oil should look like this.

Like mine your forks were less then half full. Your'e going to like those forks MUCH better now lol.
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Old 04-03-2017, 01:45 PM   #21
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Like mine your forks were less then half full. Your'e going to like those forks MUCH better now lol.
Yes there will be a big difference. I went off road riding Saturday. Last time I went before I changed the oil my shocks bottomed out a few times. Saturday not once did it come close to bottoming out. The shocks were definitely more firm.
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Old 04-03-2017, 02:44 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski_rush View Post
Here's the update on the front forks.

This morning, I went to the hardware store and they happened to have an exact hex bolt as the one that is used at the bottom of the fork. It's black, but other than that, it was the exact same bolt. I went straight home and tried it and wouldn't you know...it tightened just fine. I was able to torque to the specified torque and it didn't spin at all. I didn't even need to use the broom handle trick. Instead, I temporarily put the spring back in and the fork cap on and put some weight back on the front tire to push the piston down. I will just assume that something was wrong with that hex bolt, although it looked okay.

I put the fork oil in, and then torqued the cap bolts. I should be okay, but in the meantime, I'll check for leaks. It shouldn't leak; just saying.

Am I glad I changed the fork oil? I would say so. Here is a pic (see below) of the factory fork oil, and keep in mind my bike has under 20 miles on it. What are your thoughts on this? To me, it seems like it was under filled (about 4 oz), and I wouldn't think "new" fork oil should look like this.

Reading must have become a lost art in America. Many, many posts on here have discussed the fact that these bikes make a long ride from China to get here, and that they have RUST PREVENTATIVE OILS in the forks, engines and transmissions. You are supposed to change them right away when you get the machine. And another thing which has not been discussed much is that it is the luck of the draw as to whether there is a mere trace, or more of grease in the steering head bearings. These are cup-and-cone bearings, which means loose ball bearings. Just like a bicycle. If you are going to take the steering head apart to check the grease, I suggest you wrap the tape of your choice on the bottom of the headstock, else those little ball bearings will be inclined to cascade all over the garage floor, some never to be seen again in this lifetime. As for grease, I suppose any marine grease is fine, but I've always used either Evinrude or Mercury brand grease as I KNOW the stuff works even drowned in salt water.....ARH


 
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Old 04-03-2017, 03:47 PM   #23
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I suggest you wrap the tape of your choice on the bottom of the headstock, else those little ball bearings will be inclined to cascade all over the garage floor, some never to be seen again in this lifetime. ARH
Or like one of my old Harleys when you drop the lower tree out and they pour down inside the frame never to be seen again. It's like trying to get a guitar pick out of a guitar body.
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Old 04-03-2017, 04:57 PM   #24
Ski_rush   Ski_rush is offline
 
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I'm just happy my bike it's back together.

And, I even learned a thing or two along the way.


 
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Old 04-03-2017, 05:00 PM   #25
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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I'm just happy my bike it's back together.

And, I even learned a thing or two along the way.
Glad to here. You'll be a pro before its all over with. Great bike to learn mechanics on.
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Old 04-03-2017, 06:43 PM   #26
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Anybody know how much oil to put into each fork on the Inverted ones on the Brozz?


 
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Old 04-03-2017, 07:03 PM   #27
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Anybody know how much oil to put into each fork on the Inverted ones on the Brozz?
same question, would like to know as well...and ATF is good enough?


 
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Old 04-03-2017, 10:28 PM   #28
Ski_rush   Ski_rush is offline
 
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same question, would like to know as well...and ATF is good enough?
I read up on the ATF issue a lot. From what I read it is fine. I was actually going to use it myself. The only reason I didn't was that there happens to be a few bike shops within 10 minutes from where I work and they sell fork oil for about the same price as synthetic ATF. Plus, I like knowing what weight I'm buying. With the ATF, the weight depends on the brand... That's what I read. Some other more knowledgeable folks might chime in.

ATF is fine from what I read, but for me the fork oil was the same price and just as easy to get.

Either way you go is better than what's in there now!


 
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Old 04-04-2017, 04:08 PM   #29
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same question, would like to know as well...and ATF is good enough?
ATF works very well in the forks. There is at least 100 guys on this forum that use it, and with no complaints. Dextron, from GM is the thinner one, works much better than what comes with the bike. Ford's Mercon is somewhat thicker, which makes the damping even firmer. I would try Dextron spec first. WalMart house brand comes in these two diff specs, and works fine....ARH


 
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Old 04-04-2017, 04:42 PM   #30
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In the 70's ,the shop I worked at figured that dexron was about a 8 weight ,not scientific ,but we compared it with the bel ray and other products we had and it was pretty much an 8 weight .


 
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