Forks on Zong

[katoranger]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Good eyes, Allen! 8O

Spud

I haven't hit 40 yet.

[Pliskin]

Originally Posted by katoranger

I think I can see a bit of a pinched o-ring in the picture.

It does look like it, but it's only an illusion from oil. If you see the first picture it's not there.

Originally Posted by zingshoen

nothin a bit of permatex silicon glue won t fix

That's a good tip. But i will check today for o-rings as you suggested at Supercheap.

Originally Posted by SpudRider

You've got a very good camera, Pliskin! That is a great photograph, indeed.

Thank you Spud. It's Cannon ixus 220hs. It has an option of doing micromode.

Originally Posted by SpudRider

That fork is also sitting too low in the upper triple clamp, Pliskin. :wink: Either the fork was installed too low at the factory, and/or or the pinch bolts in the triple tree are too loose. :wink:

You know i was thinking that too. It just looks low.

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Therefore, I suggest you service the forks, re-install them a little higher in the triple tree, and replace the damaged O-ring.

Spud how higher are your forks, just from visually looking at your Zong?

Originally Posted by SpudRider

The socket is nice, but an adjustable crescent wrench will work just as well. :wink:

I have adjustable crescent wrench but was scared of using it, as it tends to slip and damage the bolt. I tried with my new box wrench and was able to unscrew caps slightly. I was surprised how easy I was able to undo the fork caps. :? I remember how you mentioned they used lock-tight. Will keep you updated.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Pliskin

...Spud how higher are your forks, just from visually looking at your Zong?...

The top of the fork tube (not the fork cap) should be about 1mm above the top of the triple tree. Your fork tube is located below the top of the triple tree. :?

Originally Posted by Pliskin

...I have adjustable crescent wrench but was scared of using it, as it tends to slip and damage the bolt. I tried with my new box wrench and was able to unscrew caps slightly. I was surprised how easy I was able to undo the fork caps. :? I remember how you mentioned they used lock-tight. Will keep you updated.

The fork cap unscrews easily from the fork tube. The damper rod is screwed into the fork cap with loctite.

Spud

[zingshoen]

supercheap and autobarn can vary a bit from store to store, autobarn in ipswich is quite good, most stuff on the shelves and guys with know-how.

the silicon glue i recommend is permatex 66B, keep it in the fridge once opened.

[Pliskin]

I raised the front wheel and unscrewed it up to here and no matter how much i was turning it, it wouldn't come off. Wasn't sure what
I was doing wrong. Then I tried with lowering the wheel.


As soon as I did that it popped right up.


Once fork cap removed. Indeed Spud, that's where i found lock-tight inside the thread on fork cap.


I have a question. If i remove this screw (which is located on bottom of fork) can i drain the oil this way. Then just pour oil on top
without removing forks :?:

I found o-ring at local all bearings shop. He did the measurement i took the fork cap as well. But when i got home i saw that new o-ring
is a bit thinner than old one. Will test it tomorrow and let you know.

Originally Posted by SpudRider

The top of the fork tube (not the fork cap) should be about 1mm above the top of the triple tree. Your fork tube is located below the top of the triple tree. :?

Thank you Spud for letting me know. I guess I will have to adjust them, no matter how much I am trying to avoid removing forks.

Originally Posted by zingshoen

the silicon glue i recommend is permatex 66B, keep it in the fridge once opened.

Thank you Zingshoen.

[Weldangrind]

A thin film of grease on the o-ring might help. It will prevent the o-ring from tearing, and it will help it to seal.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Pliskin

...I have a question. If i remove this screw (which is located on bottom of fork) can i drain the oil this way. Then just pour oil on top
without removing forks :?:...

Thank you Spud for letting me know. I guess I will have to adjust them, no matter how much I am trying to avoid removing forks. ...

Yes, you can drain the fork oil by removing those bolts. However, the job is much easier if you simply remove the forks. I provide detailed, step-by-step instructions for servicing the Zong's forks in the following thread.

http://chinariders.net/modules.php?n...b785e6f#137744

Spud

[Pliskin]

Thanks Weld, that's great info.

Spud thank you for the link, and good to know that it can be done by removing the bolt i mentioned.

[zingshoen]

pliskin thanks for the industrial still life photos! your camera makes those threads look really good!

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Pliskin

Thanks Weld, that's great info.

Spud thank you for the link, and good to know that it can be done by removing the bolt i mentioned.

Here's a link to a thread which describes how to change the fork oil without removing the forks.

http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...ink-QingQi-200

Personally, I would much rather remove the forks. The job is easier with the forks removed, and one can do a much better job removing the old oil from the forks. Also, it's easier to measure the correct amount of new fork oil. In addition, you can inspect your forks thoroughly if you remove them. Indeed, with the Zongshen forks, you can even clean the oil seals and dust wipers without removing the oil seals from the forks!

Spud

[Pliskin]

Thanks Zingshoen, I am glad you like them.

Great link Spud I forgot about it, but remember seeing it before. I haven't decided about fork oil change yet. Thank you for all the help you offered and others of course.

[Pliskin]

I did 50km ride today and can report there was no oil leak.

[SpudRider]

That's great! I'm beginning to think your O-ring is fine. I believe you fixed the problem when you tightened the fork cap.

I suspect Zongshen mounted the forks too low in the triple tree at the factory, and because of this they couldn't/didn't tighten the fork cap properly. :roll: I suggest you support the bike off the front wheel, and raise the forks slightly. You won't even need to remove the front wheel. Merely loosen the pinch bolts, and slide the fork tubes up the triple tree, then tighten both fork caps. Finally, tighten the pinch bolts, lower the bike, and you are done.

However, you probably should change the fork oil fairly soon. It's not a difficult job.

Spud

[Pliskin]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

I'm beginning to think your O-ring is fine. I believe you fixed the problem when you tightened the fork cap. :wink:

It's possible, but I did notice that when i removed old o-ring that it wasn't holding shape.
Another thing I noticed it was placed in the middle (As can be seen from the above pic.) where the other one (non leaking) was pushed all the way up. That's how i place the new one too.

Originally Posted by SpudRider

However, you probably should change the fork oil fairly soon. It's not a difficult job. :wink:

It will go on to do next, maintenance list. Thanks Spud, you are great encouragement.

[SpudRider]

Yes, the O-ring definitely belongs at the top of the fork cap. I think you're in good shape now, Pliskin.

Spud