Chain for Zong in Aust.

[Weldangrind]

If you cut the chain too short, you could use two master links. It's not ideal, but I sure would if I paid good money for an o-ring chain.

[zingshoen]

pliskin, i m still on the original chain, just keeping it well greased.

[Pliskin]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

You're welcome, Pliskin. The shipping charge to Australia for the eBay, KMC 428UO drive chain is $19.95.

Only $20. 8O If that's the case then that would be an excellent deal.

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Once you've cut off what you don't need, you must have two female links left to join with a master link. Make sense? I believe that's what Spud means by an even number of links; your new chain will have a female link at each end, and it must look like that when you're done cutting.

Thank you Weldangrind for additional clarification. It does make a lot of sense now.

Originally Posted by SpudRider

You've given a much better, more detailed explanation, Weld. However, it's much easier for me to remember, and explain to others, to remove an even number of links! I select the pin I wish to grind by counting an even number of links/pins, then I visualize to confirm I will be left with two male (narrower) links on each end of the chain. :wink:

Another very important point to consider is this; don't cut the chain too short! 8O If you cut the chain too long, you can always cut it again. If you cut the chain too short, you have ruined the entire chain, unless you can use it on another motorcycle. :wink:

When changing sprockets on a bike, the stock chain length will frequently change. Therefore, you can't be sure how many chain links you need to add, or remove. Once again, keep an even number of chain links, or you won't be able to install the female (wider) master link. :wink:

When I need to determine a new chain length, I loosen the rear wheel and push it as far forward as the chain adjusters will allow. Then I install the chain, and wrap it around both sprockets. I inspect to see where I would have two male (narrower) links line up on the rear sprocket, a tooth apart, and the place where I would install the master link. This space will be farther back than the most forward position of the wheel on the chain adjusters, otherwise you couldn't get the chain installed. :wink: After "measuring" twice to confirm I got the correct pin, I remove the chain and grind the stakes off the desired pin. Then I get my heavy-duty chain breaker, and push the pin out of the chain.

Incidentally, it requires a lot of torque to push the pin out of a new, quality, O-ring drive chain! 8O Some people don't bother to grind the stakes off the pin before they push/pound it out. However, I find the process is difficult enough even after I have ground the stakes off the pin! 8O You really have to torque on the chain breaker for quite a while to push the pin out of a new, quality, O-ring drive chain. :wink:

Spud Thank you for detailed explanation. I will go through this before i start doing anything.

I wasn't planning on getting a chain-braker but maybe i'll have to rethink that as well.

Originally Posted by SpudRider

You really have to torque on the chain breaker for quite a while to push the pin out of a new, quality, O-ring drive chain. :wink:

Weldangrind how do you accomplish this process without the chain-breaker?
Do you hit the pin with something after you grind the tip, so it comes out? I should also check some youtube videos.

[wilserchinarider]

Just my $.02 on chain breakers. I have never owned won, and unfortunately I only put on a small fraction of the mileage that Spud does, and rarely need to remove links from a chain.

When I do need to shorten a chain, I just completely remove the head on the pin where i want to break the chain with an angle grinder, and tap out the pin w/ a punch...or a framing nail if i can't find my punch :oops:

Either way, you can get chainbreaker and do it like the pros and Spud, or use a grinder, a hammer and a punch like me and the redneck hillbillies.

You're in luck pliskin...this guy working without a chainbreaker speaks Aussie as well...I think

[Weldangrind]

I do it exactly like wilserchinarider; they key word is "tap" the pin out. There will be no force required once the peened portion of the pin is ground away. They literally fall apart at that point. Just take care to not grind on a link that you need to keep.

If you're at all concerned about grinding too far, you can just grind a little, so as to remove the hardness layer. You can then use a very sharp file to work the reast of the peened portion away.

Even if you get a chain breaker, you need to grind the pin. You definitely don't want to force the peened portion through the cylinder on a brand new chain.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by wilserchinarider

Just my $.02 on chain breakers. I have never owned won, and unfortunately I only put on a small fraction of the mileage that Spud does, and rarely need to remove links from a chain.

When I do need to shorten a chain, I just completely remove the head on the pin where i want to break the chain with and angle grinder, and tap out the pin w/ a punch...or a framing nail if i can't find my punch :oops:

Either way, you can get chainbreaker and do it like the pros and Spud, or use a grinder, a hammer and a punch like me and the redneck hillbillies.

You're in luck pliskin...this guy working without a chainbreaker speaks Aussie as well...I think

The guy in that video was very entertaining; thanks for posting the link, WCR. Also, thanks for contributing your experience on this matter.

If that gentleman wanted to remove two links, he cut the chain too short. He actually removed four links from his drive chain. Why was he wearing a ski mask? :?: I wouldn't do this job in my bathroom, either.

Spud

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I do it exactly like wilserchinarider; they key word is "tap" the pin out. There will be no force required once the peened portion of the pin is ground away. They literally fall apart at that point. Just take care to not grind on a link that you need to keep...

Thank you for elaborating further, Weld. I hope I haven't presented misinformation; that was never my intention. :oops:

I must admit, I have never tapped the pin out of a drive chain I have shortened. Brother Andy offered to shorten my first drive chain at the diesel repair shop he supervises. He ground the pin in a large vise. Then he had to punch the pin pretty hard to remove it. Perhaps the heat from his grinder welded the pin slightly to the link. :?

I didn't have access to a vise when I decided to break my next chain. Therefore, the next time I needed to shorten a drive chain, I got a heavy-duty chain breaker on sale from Harbor Freight, which was located about one mile away from my home. I've been using the chain breaker ever since.

http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...ker-66488.html

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

...If you're at all concerned about grinding too far, you can just grind a little, so as to remove the hardness layer. You can then use a very sharp file to work the reast of the peened portion away.

Even if you get a chain breaker, you need to grind the pin. You definitely don't want to force the peened portion through the cylinder on a brand new chain.

Some people don't grind the pin on a size 428 chain before using a chain breaker. However, I agree with you; I always grind the pin, myself. Grinding the pin always takes me more time than using the chain breaker. :roll: Therefore, I only grind the side of the pin from which I will be pushing it. I always encounter significant resistance as I torque the bolts on the chain breaker, pushing the ground pin through the first link. I also encounter significant resistance as I push the pin through the second link. :roll: Because of this resistance, and the fact the chain breaker is so inexpensive and easy to use, I have never tried to tap the pin out with a punch/nail and vise. However, I'm sure you're correct. I trust your judgement and experience. Tapping the pin out of the chain shouldn't be too difficult; especially if one has the chain positioned in a vice.

Spud

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Thank you for elaborating further, Weld. I hope I haven't presented misinformation; that was never my intention. :oops:

I must admit, I have never tapped the pin out of a drive chain I have shortened. Brother Andy offered to shorten my first drive chain at the diesel repair shop he supervises. He ground the pin in a large vise. Then he had to punch the pin pretty hard to remove it. Perhaps the heat from his grinder welded the pin slightly to the link. :?

Spud, you're one of the premiere go-to guys around this shop; you're not wired for misinformation.

If Andy had to apply force to tap the pin out, then the peened end of the pin wasn't completely ground off. When the chain is constructed, the pin is placed in the bore, and then the ends are mushroomed, or peened. I grind the pins intentionally; I don't want any of the mushroomed material to be forced through the bore, in case it should be damaged in the process. I's a delicate dance though, because it's very easy to grind too far. I have.

[wilserchinarider]

This guy removes and adds links with just a hammer and punch, no grinder. 8O Notice in the vid how his thumb is injured. This guy is a graduate from "The School of the Bigger Hammer"

What really surprised me is that he reuses the link???

[SpudRider]

I guess real men "don't need no stinkin' grinder!"

I really enjoy the convenience and easy application of my chain breaker. They really don't cost very much.

Spud

[SpudRider]

You can also carry a chain breaker with you in your tool kit while traveling on your motorcycle. The chain breaker is more portable, and weighs less than a vise. Also, I would trust my chain repair much more after using a chain breaker, rather than a big hammer!

Spud

[SpudRider]

Did you decided which drive chain you are going to buy? Please give us an update, Pliskin.

Spud

[wilserchinarider]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

I guess real men "don't need no stinkin' grinder!"

I really enjoy the convenience and easy application of my chain breaker. They really don't cost very much.

Spud

No Spud, the guy in the video is a hack, that just chooses the "bigger hammer" to shorten the chain. Even lazy me thinks this is a bad idea for the damage tht might / does result.

Thinking back when I changed rear sprockets on my boy's chinabike, I left the chain on the bike, put the oversized chain on the rear sprocket and did surgery to the chain with the grinder on the bike...not saying this is better, but it is fast and dirty keeping w/ the china bike motif...

I'm sure the chain breaker is a nice tool to have in your arsenal and is surely more professional, the thing I like about chinabikes is that repairs can usually done be w/ a couple of crecsent wrenches and a "big hammer"

[Weldangrind]

The detail I failed to share before is that I use a flap disc on a 4 1/2" grinder for good control, not a grinding disc.

[Pliskin]

Thank you wilserchinarider for youtube link. I've checked few now they are very helpful.

Thank you Weldangrind for further explaining the procedure. We'll have to go through this post again when i have to do it.

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

The detail I failed to share before is that I use a flap disc on a 4 1/2" grinder for good control, not a grinding disc.

I was going to ask you about this. I don't know what type of disc i have on my grinder if it's good for the job, will have to check.

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Did you decided which drive chain you are going to buy? Please give us an update, Pliskin.

Yes i have Spud. Last night. We have such a nice weather at the moment that i didn't have time to give you an update.

Before deciding for KMC i tried 2 local bike shops. But with no luck. I wanted to settle even for standard chain but they didn't have the length that i required.
So last night the link you gave me of KMC chain on ebay, that's the one i purchased. So now i am waiting for it to arrive. It should take between 7 - 35 days.