Engine goes out

[JPG1911]

Aww Nuts! Reading this post has me second guessing if I bought the wrong CDI. I based my decision on the plug size and shape, I noticed that some CDI units had a decidedly more square connection, and some had more rounded corners. My wiring connections are the round corner type, so I bought a DC CDI that had the same connections. It should arrive tomorrow, so I guess we'll see soon enough.

*edit - I just double checked the listing on the CDI I bought, and it is AC. Phew!

[culcune]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I go by the physical size. AC and DC CDI units are quite dissimilar, so it's easy to match your specific part. The difficulty comes in whether or not the replacement is designed for an alarm system. If it is, you might see weird symptoms, like the engine will start without a key.

Would the brand and code writing on the CDI itself be an indicator?

Ironically, after having no CDI problems with my '09 TMEC for 10k miles in a year and a half, on the way to work, it kept sputtering and whatnot. I thought it might have been when the exhaust 'blew out' since there is no gasket. I have been waiting patiently for the gasket to arrive from ebay, and the local Honda dealer, but then today, once I pulled up to work, it died, and would not start. Then, it started, and then died while revving. I changed the plug, because I have had a few of those go out, and similar consequences such as sputtering, coughing and dying, but the plug was not fouled in the least (as the others were), so I figured it might be the CDI. I got a ride home, grabbed my tools and I took the '09's CDI, drove 16 miles, changed it, and I forgot the keys! My coworker is driving me to work tomorrow anyway, so if it starts and runs tomorrow after work, I will simply ride it home, and order some spare units. If not, I will have to figure out what else it could be...

[Weldangrind]

So far, it's the key.

Yes, if the markings match, you likely have a winner. That's how I determined the CDI I needed when I ordered from Taobao.

[SpudRider]

I'm having a very difficult time trying to read that wiring diagram.

I do know the DC-CDI units are larger than the AC-CDI units, since the DC units must incorporate an internal transformer to step up the 12V DC they receive from the battery. Weld is correct; the surest way to get the correct CDI unit is to match the code printed on the case.

I can't locate the 'kill switch' on the wiring diagram. However, the 'kill switch' works differently for the two types of CDI unit. The 'kill switch' will kill the engine by grounding the output from the AC-CDI unit to ground. Conversely, the 'kill switch' will kill the engine by opening the circuit from the battery to the DC-CDI unit.

With the ignition key turned on, you can also probe each of the pins on the CDI wiring plug to ground. If any of the pins measures 12V DC, you have a DC-CDI unit. If none of the pins measures 12V DC to ground, you have an AC-CDI unit.

[Trailbikeryder]

The kill switch is the one that says "Switch, front brake".

Both of them look the same and have the exact same plug my bike has.
I read there a easy way to find out. You start the engine and disconnect to battery and see if the engine goes off or stays on. The problem with that is that mine won't start or stay on long enough to try that.

AC CDI:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Performance-R...item5d34acfc5f
DC CDI:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/380710923426?...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Trailbikeryder

The kill switch is the one that says "Switch, front brake"...

That is not the 'kill switch.' The front brake switch activates the brake light when you pull the front brake lever.

Originally Posted by Trailbikeryder

...I read there a easy way to find out. You start the engine and disconnect to battery and see if the engine goes off or stays on. The problem with that is that mine won't start or stay on long enough to try that...

With the ignition key turned on, you can also probe each of the pins on the CDI wiring plug to ground. If any of the pins illuminates the probe light, you have a DC-CDI unit. If none of the pins lights the bulb, you have an AC-CDI unit.

[Trailbikeryder]

This is a picture oft the original.

[Krasi_BG]

Kill switch is in the Right Handle switch assy. and is killing the engine by opening the connection to ground - Pu and Gr wires. And that's two CDI inputs!

Side stand switch is killing the engine by grounding another of the inputs of the CDI (I have mine disabled by unplugging it). Same one as the main switch.

And the CDI is connected directly to the magnetor, so I also think it's an AC CDI

The output of the CDI is connected directly to the coil...

[Trailbikeryder]

Spud you are right, thats the brake light because its connected to rear brake.

[Krasi_BG]

There you go:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kazuma-Din...item27e4b06156

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-PIN-MALE...item4865134856

[Trailbikeryder]

Ok, I ordered one the AC version now. THANK YOU everybody :-)

I'll keep you posted.

[SpudRider]

You're welcome.

I agree; I think you have an AC-CDI unit. It's hard to tell from the wiring diagram, and the different color wires, but it appears your CDI unit is connected to an exciter coil on the stator, as well as a pulse generator. Your CDI unit also appears to be smaller than a DC-CDI unit. In addition, grounding the CDI unit to kill the engine is characterisitic of an AC-CDI unit.

[culcune]

Sorry to hijack the thread, but it turned out my issue was a CDI as well! Used the one from the '09 parts bike, and the bike started right up--no more misses/sputtering!! I have two CDIs coming from Excalibur, too, just so I have some spares.

[Trailbikeryder]

Got the new CDI today. Still won't start right. Only starts up with full throttle with no choke on and theres a lot of smoke coming out and she is very loud. Could it be the valve adjustment? Or next thing take the carburetor apart? Just afraid I won't get it back together right.

[SpudRider]

I'm glad you got the correct, AC-CDI unit. It's good to have a spare CDI unit merely to help diagnose problems with the electrical system.

If your problem is not electrical, it must be caused by one of the following factors.

1. Fuel Delivery
2. Air Intake
3. Compression

I suggest you check the valve lash, and adjust it, if necessary. Then you should measure compression. If you eliminate compression as the problem, you will then know the problem is either fuel, or air related.