Where can I get the best deal on a replacement 250cc engine?

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Ok, some good news

She was locked up pretty tight, so I pulled the plug, squirted some Kroil down into the cylinder and let her sit for a few hours.

Dumped the clutch while rolling downhill and she broke free.

Installed a new kick start lever and it appears that she has compression

https://youtube.com/shorts/Dx89bB08Ti8?feature=share

Now, a few questions (please bear with me as I'm new to these things).

I ordered a new twist throttle grip set and it came with a single cable.

The original cable is a dual "Y" type

It screws into the new hand throttle, but the cable itself feels a bit tight (pretty sure I already ruined the plastic twisty bit on the hand grip by forcing it)

What is the second cable on the top of the carb used for and is it necessary?

It already has a manual choke cable on the signal switch assembly.

Kinda lost in the mess of wiring and I'd like to order a complete harness as there are a few melted bits, but before I do, I wanna make sure it actually runs.

From what I can tell, it's missing a CDI box and rectifier.

If I picked these up separately, could I just bypass the ignition switch part of the wiring to get it up and running?

That being said, it looks like the complete wiring harness with everything I need can be had on the cheap, so I might as well just order it.

Only hang up is the type of stator (2 or 3 hole)

Without pulling the cover and eyeballing it, is it possible to confirm which one I have based on the serial number?

Also, is a battery necessary or will it run without just off the magneto?

Gunna try bumping the starter with some jumper cables tomorrow just to make sure it's good.

[Thumper]

That IS great news

You have lots of clean up work to do, but getting that engine running would really be amazing. Carb cleaning, chain work, pod filter adaptation might not be all that much work.


Regarding the carb, The slide connection (top) is a standard single throttle control. That is all that most carbs need. Choke is normally the only other necessary connection. I do NOT recognize the rotating device connected to the second cable. It obscures the slide height set screw (idle).

Someone else here will need to step in. A couple of close up photos might be useful.

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I've actually been doing some research on the carb and I see they're available pretty cheap.

Would it be worthwhile to upgrade to a PZ30?

Also, where can I get a replacement Split-Y throttle cable?

The only one I've been able to find is for a PW80 and it looks close, but doesn't appear to have threaded ends

[david3921]

Originally Posted by 98 SNAKE EATER

I've actually been doing some research on the carb and I see they're available pretty cheap.

Would it be worthwhile to upgrade to a PZ30?

Also, where can I get a replacement Split-Y throttle cable?

The only one I've been able to find is for a PW80 and it looks close, but doesn't appear to have threaded ends

I had to do some searches to find out about the carb on your bike. Most carbs on these engines have two cables; one for the choke and one for the throttle. Yours has three. The throttle cable is split so that it controls the throttle and what's called an accelerating pump. I don't know anything about these but others might chime in. Many of us have this type of engine on our rides and none of them have this pump.

With all that being said, you need a different carb to use the throttle you bought. I think PZ30 is too big. The ones here that have a Rhino have gone with the VM26. It would allow you to go to just two cables (throotle/choke) and it takes Mikuni jets for tuning.

[XLsior]

The carb already installed looks to be a PZ30B pumper carb.

You can run the the bike single throttle cable without the pump actuator connected and essentially have a PZ30...

as for the 'cheap wiring kits' they are ok but i would recommend up-rating the ground and active 12v wires as the are typically very low gauge and prone to frizzling.

I ended up replacing the ground and 12v with twin core 15amp auto cable.

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Originally Posted by XLsior

The carb already installed looks to be a PZ30B pumper carb.

You can run the the bike single throttle cable without the pump actuator connected and essentially have a PZ30...

as for the 'cheap wiring kits' they are ok but i would recommend up-rating the ground and active 12v wires as the are typically very low gauge and prone to frizzling.

I ended up replacing the ground and 12v with twin core 15amp auto cable.

Assuming the accelerator pump works like a typical one on a car, wouldn't the carb run lean without the pump actuating?

Would I need to step up on jetting to compensate?

And yeah, I'd definitely all the hot wires on the kit, but just curious if it will run without a battery at all

On my old MiniChopper build, the motor had an electric start that I never used.

Never installed a battery either

[XLsior]

all the pump does is squirt a small amount of fuel each time the the throttle closes then opens.

So it wont really effect daily operation is just adds more response snap...

jetting shouldn't be implicated to the point of detriment...

If the factory wiring doesn't look butchered it might not need to be replaced anyway.

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Ok, if that's the case, I'll just try using the new single cable.

Main goal is just to get her up and running again, I'll worry about fine tuning later on.


It already needs a cdi box and rectifier and I'm uncertain of the condition of the coil and rest of wiring, so I figure it would just be easier and cost effective to replace everything.

Looking at this kit on Amazon

https://amzn.to/3Yx4tvu

I've checked with other companies on Ebay and they say the only difference would be the stator type (2 or 3 hole).

Is there any way of knowing this without having to pull the cover?

[david3921]

You've going to have to pull the cover anyway to install a new one. It's better to check that it will fit before ordering.

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Originally Posted by david3921

You've going to have to pull the cover anyway to install a new one. It's better to check that it will fit before ordering.

Yeah, but that's only if I have to replace it (wasn't planning on it unless I have to)

It just happens to be included with the new kit, so I was hoping I could confirm which one I have by the serial number or perhaps eyeballing the wiring on the plug just in case I really do need it

[david3921]

Originally Posted by 98 SNAKE EATER

Yeah, but that's only if I have to replace it (wasn't planning on it unless I have to)

It just happens to be included with the new kit, so I was hoping I could confirm which one I have by the serial number or perhaps eyeballing the wiring on the plug just in case I really do need it

I was basing this on what you said here:

"It already needs a cdi box and rectifier and I'm uncertain of the condition of the coil and rest of wiring, so I figure it would just be easier and cost effective to replace everything."

Also, on the carb, based on the state of the rest of the engine, you should assume that your carb is all gummed up with junk. You'll probably spend a whole lot of time tearing it down and cleaning it when it would be far easier and cheaper just to install a new carb.

BTW, you might want to check out this thread at Mychinamoto;

http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...-CCW-tha-Heist

Lots of good info and it looks to confirm that the size of the carb is a PZ30. You can confirm the size when you pull the carb for cleaning or replacing.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by XLsior

The carb already installed looks to be a PZ30B pumper carb.

You can run the the bike single throttle cable without the pump actuator connected and essentially have a PZ30...

as for the 'cheap wiring kits' they are ok but i would recommend up-rating the ground and active 12v wires as the are typically very low gauge and prone to frizzling.

I ended up replacing the ground and 12v with twin core 15amp auto cable.

Good call XLsior. I bought a new rack of Mikuni RS smoothbore for my 1200S Bandit about a decade ago, and they had an adjustable accelerator pump. I should have recognized it. Also, this appears to be a legit Japanese made Keihin carb. It would be worth cleaning and rebuilding.

Snake- If you replace it, it might be better to get a PZ28 if the head has not been ported. It will be easier to tune. You should be able to run the pumper with a single throttle cable, but I don't think you will be able to use that carb at all unless you rebuild it. It will be gunked up. Find a kit, and restore the accelerator pump. I think it wil be worth the effort.

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Yeah, I definitely plan on pulling the carb for a cleaning

Just wanna make sure fires up first

Depending on how she runs, I'll see about possibly ordering a new carb.

I mean they're dirt cheap, might as well...

Actually tipped her over to get a better look at the wiring and saw what looks like a rectifier bolted to the bottom of the motor (hard to tell as it was raining).

Thanks for the chinamoto link btw

Reading through it right now

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Starter motor works

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Ok, so is it possible to tell which stator I have by the wires/plug?

Mine looks like 6 wires (unless I'm lookin at the wrong one)