Valve Adjustment Tutorial - Page 2

katoranger · 07-24-2007, 08:26 AM

I think I am going to try it on my pushrod motor on Wednesday. I will take some pictures to add to this sticky. I is going to involve dropping the motor out and I also plan to do the engine bolt upgrade at the same time plus check things over good while the bike is apart.

Allen

katoranger · 07-25-2007, 12:01 PM

Is .05 mm (slightly under .002") correct for the pushrod engine for both valves I found this by searching for specs.

Jetmoto says to adjust to .004" intake and .006" exhaust.

Allen

Beavis · 07-25-2007, 08:30 PM

.004" and .006" will be so noisy, you will need earplugs! 8O Use 0.05mm (.002") and 0.08mm (.003") as suggested, and you will be much happier.

katoranger · 07-25-2007, 09:09 PM

Good thing I haven't gotton it all back together yet. I set them to .005". Will change it tommorrow. That seems to be about what they were at before I started.

Allen

Beavis · 07-26-2007, 07:00 AM

Just did mine the other day. Not careful on the first time, and very unhappy that I had to pull it all apart to do it again. :evil:
For me, I did not have to pull the motor all the way out, I left the lower most rear bolt in but loose, so I could just pivot the motor down and then back up. It's much easier if you don't have to wrestle with it.

Good luck.

katoranger · 07-26-2007, 03:59 PM

I went back and set them .05mm. I think that is about what they were before I started. I am thinking that I may be able to get the valve cover off without lowering the engine. I will have to try it next time.

Allen

madmanjustice · 09-07-2007, 01:54 PM

hmmmm... i picked up 2 sets of feeler gauges today and niether one of them go down to .05mm. In fact none of the sets that I was looking at went that small if i remember correctly.

where are you guys getting your feeler gauges.

katoranger · 09-07-2007, 03:38 PM

Grandpa's toolbox.

Allen

Q · 01-12-2008, 05:30 PM

Many of the LF200-GY5 bikes do not have enough clearance between the engine and frame to remove the valve cover. It's a pain to remove the engine mounting bolts and lower the engine. I found that if you grind off about 1/8" of one of the ribs on the valve cover it will clear the frame.

I used a Dremel tool with a sanding drum to remove the material while the valve cover was bolted to the engine. Here's a pic showing which rib to grind down. The rib is already ground down in this pic.

This is a closer pic of the valve cover with the rib ground down.

Here is the rocker assembly on the OHV engine.

This shows timing mark and flywheel bolt access.

Close up of the TDC mark "T"

The bolt used to turn the flywheel to align the timing marks.

Q

katoranger · 01-14-2008, 11:56 AM

Q, I had thought of doing the same. You can almost sneak it out with the motor bolted in so it had me thinking that just alittle grinding would make it clear.

Thanks for the pics.

Allen

01-29-2008, 08:20 PM

thanks Q.

Hondarider27 · 02-05-2008, 08:22 PM

This helped alot. Would i want to line up the T or the line right next to the T with the line on the case. Also should i use the .002 intake and .003 exhaust ajustments for my star 200cc atv? Thanks alot

Q · 02-05-2008, 08:33 PM

Yes, line up the line right next to the T although it's not critical. Sorry I don't know the recommended clearance for your ATV. If .002 and .003 is what it says in your owners manual, that's what I'd use.

Q

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hondarider27

This helped alot. Would i want to line up the T or the line right next to the T with the line on the case. Also should i use the .002 intake and .003 exhaust ajustments for my star 200cc atv? Thanks alot

bisaho15 · 03-02-2008, 03:52 PM

i have 240 miles on my lf200gy. it has alot of ticking when the engine is hot. i bought it off someone who knew nothing about bikes and it wasnt running when i got it. 2 hours of tolling around has this thing in nice shape. but it does tick alot. should i wait till 500 miles to adjust and hope it breaks in. i dont think the kid i got it from broke it in at all and im sure its seen redline alot.

Q · 03-02-2008, 04:16 PM

No need to wait. It'll tick when warm even when it's adjusted.

Q

07-24-2007, 08:26 AM	#16
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	I think I am going to try it on my pushrod motor on Wednesday. I will take some pictures to add to this sticky. I is going to involve dropping the motor out and I also plan to do the engine bolt upgrade at the same time plus check things over good while the bike is apart. Allen __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

07-25-2007, 12:01 PM	#17
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	Is .05 mm (slightly under .002") correct for the pushrod engine for both valves I found this by searching for specs. Jetmoto says to adjust to .004" intake and .006" exhaust. Allen __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

07-25-2007, 08:30 PM	#18
Beavis Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Northwoods of Wisconsin Posts: 32	.004" and .006" will be so noisy, you will need earplugs! 8O Use 0.05mm (.002") and 0.08mm (.003") as suggested, and you will be much happier. __________________ <div>Pain is temporary, bones heal, chicks dig scars, thrill is forever.</div><br />
	0

07-25-2007, 09:09 PM	#19
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	Good thing I haven't gotton it all back together yet. I set them to .005". Will change it tommorrow. That seems to be about what they were at before I started. Allen __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

07-26-2007, 07:00 AM	#20
Beavis Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Northwoods of Wisconsin Posts: 32	Just did mine the other day. Not careful on the first time, and very unhappy that I had to pull it all apart to do it again. :evil: For me, I did not have to pull the motor all the way out, I left the lower most rear bolt in but loose, so I could just pivot the motor down and then back up. It's much easier if you don't have to wrestle with it. Good luck. __________________ <div>Pain is temporary, bones heal, chicks dig scars, thrill is forever.</div><br />
	0

07-26-2007, 03:59 PM	#21
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	I went back and set them .05mm. I think that is about what they were before I started. I am thinking that I may be able to get the valve cover off without lowering the engine. I will have to try it next time. Allen __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

09-07-2007, 01:54 PM	#22
madmanjustice Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 135	hmmmm... i picked up 2 sets of feeler gauges today and niether one of them go down to .05mm. In fact none of the sets that I was looking at went that small if i remember correctly. where are you guys getting your feeler gauges. __________________ 2005 Roketa rat bike - The Ratketa 1982 Yamaha Maxim 750 The Ratketa Restoration Project The Ratketa Blog
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09-07-2007, 03:38 PM	#23
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	Grandpa's toolbox. Allen __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

01-12-2008, 05:30 PM	#24
Q Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Bend, Oregon Posts: 348	Tips for the OHV engine Many of the LF200-GY5 bikes do not have enough clearance between the engine and frame to remove the valve cover. It's a pain to remove the engine mounting bolts and lower the engine. I found that if you grind off about 1/8" of one of the ribs on the valve cover it will clear the frame. I used a Dremel tool with a sanding drum to remove the material while the valve cover was bolted to the engine. Here's a pic showing which rib to grind down. The rib is already ground down in this pic. This is a closer pic of the valve cover with the rib ground down. Here is the rocker assembly on the OHV engine. This shows timing mark and flywheel bolt access. Close up of the TDC mark "T" The bolt used to turn the flywheel to align the timing marks. Q
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01-14-2008, 11:56 AM	#25
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	Q, I had thought of doing the same. You can almost sneak it out with the motor bolted in so it had me thinking that just alittle grinding would make it clear. Thanks for the pics. Allen __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

02-05-2008, 08:22 PM	#27
Hondarider27 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 4	This helped alot. Would i want to line up the T or the line right next to the T with the line on the case. Also should i use the .002 intake and .003 exhaust ajustments for my star 200cc atv? Thanks alot
	0

03-02-2008, 03:52 PM	#29
bisaho15 Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 24	i have 240 miles on my lf200gy. it has alot of ticking when the engine is hot. i bought it off someone who knew nothing about bikes and it wasnt running when i got it. 2 hours of tolling around has this thing in nice shape. but it does tick alot. should i wait till 500 miles to adjust and hope it breaks in. i dont think the kid i got it from broke it in at all and im sure its seen redline alot.
	0

03-02-2008, 04:16 PM	#30
Q Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Bend, Oregon Posts: 348	No need to wait. It'll tick when warm even when it's adjusted. Q
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01-29-2008, 08:20 PM	#26
Guest Posts: n/a	thanks Q.
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