Ssr xf250

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by Derekon2s

I'd have to pull it and look at it. The adjustment screw on the carb, that's for the main jet isn't it? I hate it when i don't mess with it for awhile and i brain dump everything. haha

The mixture screw is the idle mixture. Depending on which side of the carb it sits, it's either a fuel screw or an air screw. It not only helps the idle but it bridges the off idle performance as you roll the throttle on.

Hopefully dh or someone will chime in who has this carb. My Qlink has a Mikuni CV carb. The mixture screw is poking straight up. It's a pain to get but fortunately, I can swivel the carb in the rubber boots.

[Derekon2s]

https://www.chinesemotorcyclepartson..._CRB055#image5

That's the carb - Dh said he was running a 132.5 main jet, i think i ran that and moved it down to a 130. I'd have to look again. i may also play with that mixture screw and see if it makes a difference.

https://www.amazon.com/XF-250-Pionee...r=8-1-fkmrnull

That's the jet kit I got for it. I'll have to look again at my jets to see what I have and what's in it. I'm pretty sure it only came with one pilot jet, so i'll have to take a look. It's just guesswork until I do.

[Derekon2s]

It's the Tekei CV carb that's on it

[dh]

Originally Posted by Derekon2s

I'd have to pull it and look at it. The adjustment screw on the carb, that's for the main jet isn't it? I hate it when i don't mess with it for awhile and i brain dump everything. haha

Charles and 2lz are onto something here.. That idle mixture screw is set lean.I believe my Sigma kit came with washers, a drill bit for the slide modification, a few main jets, and one pilot jet. In my case I am I am using the 130 main jet but I can't remember pilot jet size. I believe the stock main jet was a 128. I ride at 3,000-4,00 feet elevation and have modified stock exhaust.

Using the stuff in the kit my bike was running slightly rich with the recommended 132.5 and a washer or two under the needle as noted by some serious sputtering when letting off WOT. I think the washer was the problem in my case but it could work for you.

The idle mixture screw is covered with a tamper resistant cap that needs to be pulled out. See the image below.

Mine likes to be about 3 turns out. I had the same issues with my stock tach, but when I got mine running right the tachometer actually started working really well. The stock gauges are pretty lame though. I got this Grom style cluster off amazon and love it. I can give you directions on wiring if you happen to buy it.

https://www.amazon.com/Samdo-Univers...gateway&sr=8-7

Here's a link to a really good thread on the TK Carb. Amazon has replacements for dirt cheap too.

http://chinariders.net/showthread.ph...850#post303850

[Derekon2s]

Yea, i cut one link off of the spring, i drilled the hole, and that plug is pulled out. I'll have to pull the bowl off and see exactly which jets are in there. I'm in Kansas, so just above sea level. Like 900 ft maybe.

Even when the bike felt up to temp or close to it, i'd take the choke off and it'd die. Until it finally got warm enough, if you rev if it acts like it wants to choke out when it first comes off idle. So maybe that is the pilot jet. I might have put the stock one back in when i was playing with the settings. I did have a washer on the needle but took it off. Fortunately this stuff is easy to get to and easy to do quickly on the bike. lol I'll look at it tomorrow night or this weekend sometime. DH, didn't you put a different gauge cluster on yours?

[dh]

I had a reputable local shop/SSR dealer rebuild my forks a couple months ago and then parked the bike until now. I finally got out for a long ride last week and noticed a couple of drops of fluid on the ground the next morning. The leak tapered off and didn't start again until the next ride. This sucks since the original seals weren't actually leaking, but the original fluid just needed changing.

I called the shop and they said try cleaning the seals as crud could have settled on the forks while the bike was parked etc. If they need to be rebuilt again they aren't going to warranty this since I brought in my own seals from Taobao and didn't use SSR parts.

I was using my table saw near to the bike while it was parked during the winter, so I will try cleaning the seals in hopes that sawdust worked its way into the seal... I tried cleaning the seal using camera film as seen on youtube, and did get a little crud out of the seal. The leak slowed down a little as far as I can tell, but still there. Should I get a seal cleaner or are there any other DIY methods to clean seals that anyone know of?

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by dh

I had a reputable local shop/SSR dealer rebuild my forks a couple months ago and then parked the bike until now. I finally got out for a long ride last week and noticed a couple of drops of fluid on the ground the next morning. The leak tapered off and didn't start again until the next ride. This sucks since the original seals weren't actually leaking, but the original fluid just needed changing.

I called the shop and they said try cleaning the seals as crud could have settled on the forks while the bike was parked etc. If they need to be rebuilt again they aren't going to warranty this since I brought in my own seals from Taobao and didn't use SSR parts.

I was using my table saw near to the bike while it was parked during the winter, so I will try cleaning the seals in hopes that sawdust worked its way into the seal... I tried cleaning the seal using camera film as seen on youtube, and did get a little crud out of the seal. The leak slowed down a little as far as I can tell, but still there. Should I get a seal cleaner or are there any other DIY methods to clean seals that anyone know of?

In my experience, if a seal is leaking, it needs replacing. The lip probably got screwed up on install. It happens. Too bad they won't warranty it. I fear replacing it is your cure.
no amount of sawdust would have caused it. After all, they go through much worse on the trail.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by Derekon2s

Yea, i cut one link off of the spring, i drilled the hole, and that plug is pulled out. I'll have to pull the bowl off and see exactly which jets are in there. I'm in Kansas, so just above sea level. Like 900 ft maybe.

Even when the bike felt up to temp or close to it, i'd take the choke off and it'd die. Until it finally got warm enough, if you rev if it acts like it wants to choke out when it first comes off idle. So maybe that is the pilot jet. I might have put the stock one back in when i was playing with the settings. I did have a washer on the needle but took it off. Fortunately this stuff is easy to get to and easy to do quickly on the bike. lol I'll look at it tomorrow night or this weekend sometime. DH, didn't you put a different gauge cluster on yours?

I hope you get it running right soon. Ever since the 250 came out, I've been dying to ride one. Keep us posted....

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Derekon2s

Also, the bike is really coldblooded - it has to be choked for quite awhile before it won't die after when you turn the choke off. Any idea what causes that?

I believe that you should keep going to larger pilot jets until you get your best idle with the idle mixture screw at between 1 and 1/4 turns out and 1 and 3/4 turns out, hopefully close to 1 and 1/2 turns out. You know to be very gentle when you bottom out that mixture screw, it is very precise and quite delicate. Next, because the correct pilot jet has richened up the mixture up into the midrange, you will have to lean out the needle by removing washers. Next to the main jet....ARH

[Derekon2s]

I know I don't have any of the washers on the needle, i remember taking that off. I'll check which jets I have and report back. If the bigger pilot jet isn't in, i'll put that in, and find out what main jet I have. I imagine i should at least have the 132.5 in? As always, i really appreciate your guys' help!

[dh]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

In my experience, if a seal is leaking, it needs replacing. The lip probably got screwed up on install. It happens. Too bad they won't warranty it. I fear replacing it is your cure.
no amount of sawdust would have caused it. After all, they go through much worse on the trail.

Good point. I was wrong about the leak slowing down after cleaning the seals. I have extra seals for one side, might try and replace myself if I can find the time.

[Derekon2s]

So this weekend i finally got around to pulling the carb bowl off the bike. The pilot jet i had in it was a 38. I found the other pilot jet out of the old carb, but it was a 38 also. It had different threads, one was smaller and they weren't swappable, nor could i find another pilot jet. Anyway, so i swapped the main jet, it was a 230 and I went to the 235.

So for whatever reason, it started right up and seems to be running right. No sputtering or dying, or revving high. I'll try it again later and see what it's like, but everything seems fine now. ::

My clutch lever had a ton of vertical slop - whoever put the bike together didn't have the shouldered bolt seated all the way in. I ended up using pliers to clamp that opening that the lever goes in to close that gap. So it fits in much nicer now, i greased the bolt and reinstalled so it's a lot better now. Now i just need to adjust the clutch itself so it engages sooner.

[2LZ]

Good news! Can't wait to hear a ride report...

[Derekon2s]

I got a new action camera I've been wanting to try out, so this might be a good time to do that. I'll make a youtube video of it and put it up. I rode it down the road and back that night and it seemed better. I was able to get up over 60mph fairly easily. I need to put some miles on the damn thing. I think it shows like 260 km lol Which is like 5 miles or something.

[dh]

That's good new about the carb.

My clutch lever is garbage too but I thought that was just from crashes lol.

On the Suzuki tu250x forum I have read that the clutch engaging with the lever almost all the way out is a part of the design and to get used to it. I had a clutch cable go out last year and had to limp the bike home with lots of slipping. Replaced the cable but ithe clutch was never the same.

The bike was running like a bat out of hell the other morning while I did courier work in LA and I felt the clutch slip a few times. I really wish I had time to do the work myself, but it's at the shop now waiting its turn. The shop told me if they have time they will order Suzuki clutch plates and experiment with compatibility.