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Old 10-27-2009, 09:59 PM   #151
waynev   waynev is offline
 
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Actually if can move the carb forward 3/4"-1" than i don't think the cables will have to be really modified, maybe rerouted a bit to take up the slack. As for the battery box i was looking at the back and was thinking a box that would mount to the 4 bolts that hold the back bumper on, they are tapped now, but i would drill them out and nut and bolts the new box on, it even looks like the pos. and neg. leads are long enough to reach back there.


 
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:16 PM   #152
waynec   waynec is offline
 
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W&G...yes I will take a couple of shots tomorow. I'm not sure those tabs pinching in is an issue of functionality. Its just one of those things that looks untidy and is easily fixed. Its a good couple of hours messing about though.
I have adopted the same bidding etiquette you describe now that I have seen some of the same names here. I will keep my distance and I am also about finished as well....although lately I have suggested to my lovely wife there are some Christmas gift opportunities to be had.....but...naw...she didn't buy it....w


 
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:21 PM   #153
PCD   PCD is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynev
Actually if can move the carb forward 3/4"-1" than i don't think the cables will have to be really modified, maybe rerouted a bit to take up the slack. As for the battery box i was looking at the back and was thinking a box that would mount to the 4 bolts that hold the back bumper on, they are tapped now, but i would drill them out and nut and bolts the new box on, it even looks like the pos. and neg. leads are long enough to reach back there.
Even better.
Thats what I did when I reconnected my handlebar choke to the Mikuni, just gave the cable one extra longitudinal twist to take up 3/8" of slack. It worked fine as you say.

My batt box is as far rearward as is humanly possible right now, but it is significantly larger than stock. It is secured on that little "shelf" where the old batt box had a strap attached with 2 angle brackets, and one hanger on each frame rail (top rails). It sits about an inch higher than the the "shelf" I'm talking about, flush with the plasitc, and the batt sits another 3/4" above that.
Remember I had to clearance my seat as well so it would fit.
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:32 PM   #154
waynev   waynev is offline
 
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I see, i was thinking about your bigger battery that you used because of the winch and it had me thinking if i do need the extra power of a bigger battery for the winch i wonder if i could make a second battery box near the front ( under the fan ) to run the winch and then see if they have those battery isolators like they use on vehicles with two batteries, but in a smaller size, this way i'd have the extra power of the bigger battery, lots of room to mount it and it wouldn't interfere with the stock setup and with the isolator it will keep both batteries charged ( if the stator can keep up ) and the extra draw of the winch would be isolated to the one battery, just a thought.


 
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:41 PM   #155
PCD   PCD is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynev
I see, i was thinking about your bigger battery that you used because of the winch and it had me thinking if i do need the extra power of a bigger battery for the winch i wonder if i could make a second battery box near the front ( under the fan ) to run the winch and then see if they have those battery isolators like they use on vehicles with two batteries, but in a smaller size, this way i'd have the extra power of the bigger battery, lots of room to mount it and it wouldn't interfere with the stock setup and with the isolator it will keep both batteries charged ( if the stator can keep up ) and the extra draw of the winch would be isolated to the one battery, just a thought.
Great minds think alike I'm told I mulled this over awhile. havent made a decision yet but am leaning towards not doing it. Reasons:

Another box
Another batt
More wiring (more =bad)
More weight
Winch is going up front, may look cluttered.
Possible batt acid on legs and engine if I have a mishap (biggie here).

Now I know any idiot can knock an idea, and it the real worker is the one who gets it done, but i really have been considering this.

The isolators are designed to attach to an alternator, but a simple battery cutoff switch is just as efective. I happen to have one for my sound system. Cheap, mechanical, reliable. Only "problem" is user error. You manually must open or close it.
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:45 PM   #156
waynev   waynev is offline
 
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Good points there, maybe i'll save the winch for my project buggy, but i think that will be next year. So, since i saw some of the upgrade shocks in your pics have you checked the pressure in them, i went to do mine and they will not hold pressure.


 
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Old 10-27-2009, 11:50 PM   #157
PCD   PCD is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynev
Good points there, maybe i'll save the winch for my project buggy, but i think that will be next year. So, since i saw some of the upgrade shocks in your pics have you checked the pressure in them, i went to do mine and they will not hold pressure.
I'm having problems with them. The first one i picked up the schrader fell out almost. It was not even finger tight.
I dont want to say much more just yet because I'm not finished looking into it yet.
Did you try filling yours or testing with a gauge when they arrived? Or were they obviously empty? Do they leak at the valve maybe? When my valve was out i saw a too small O-ring on it.
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Old 10-28-2009, 01:36 AM   #158
TurboT   TurboT is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynec
I have adopted the same bidding etiquette you describe now that I have seen some of the same names here. I will keep my distance and I am also about finished as well....although lately I have suggested to my lovely wife there are some Christmas gift opportunities to be had.....but...naw...she didn't buy it....w
Yes, if you big spenders would stop pumping the carb and shock auctions up I'd be much appreciative.. I've seen all you mf'er's in there outbidding me. 8O

..my above comment is all in good fun of course. It's annoying when there is only one auction per day on these things though. At risk of invoking any more collusion against our forum sponsor I'll bow out now. :P


 
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Old 10-28-2009, 01:46 AM   #159
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Re: thx

Quote:
Originally Posted by waynev
The filter is still quite a tight fit and the foam gets really compressed on the one side, i'm either going to relocate the battery box or remove the intake manifold and remove 3/4" - 1" of it as it looks like theres room to move the carb futher forward, i'll check the material first, if it's good aluminum i'll just cut out a part and TIG weld it back together.
If you decide to section the manifold and TIG it, may I recommend that you level out the carb? I have my suspicions that the carb floods easily and farts around because of the odd angle. It would be great to find out if a horizontal carb solves all carb issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by waynev
I see, i was thinking about your bigger battery that you used because of the winch and it had me thinking if i do need the extra power of a bigger battery for the winch i wonder if i could make a second battery box near the front ( under the fan ) to run the winch and then see if they have those battery isolators like they use on vehicles with two batteries, but in a smaller size, this way i'd have the extra power of the bigger battery, lots of room to mount it and it wouldn't interfere with the stock setup and with the isolator it will keep both batteries charged ( if the stator can keep up ) and the extra draw of the winch would be isolated to the one battery, just a thought.
You can solve the battery isolation issue and make it automatic by using a solenoid. Just buy another from GIO or use a Ford solenoid. Wire it so that the ignitor terminals on the solenoid receive power when the quad is running and you're there. Also, you can avoid the spillage issue with a gel cell.

My $0.02
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Old 10-28-2009, 03:57 AM   #160
Reveeen   Reveeen is offline
 
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Just buy another from GIO or use a Ford solenoid.

You really want a "continuous duty" solenoid, rather than an "intermittent duty" solenoid, check the Cole Hersey catalog. Just remember, as voltage decreases current climbs, too much current through a solenoid, and the contacts will weld themselves together.

you can avoid the spillage issue with a gel cell.

Gel cells are kinda neat, but are generally low current supply (same size), as a wet cell battery.

I have my suspicions that the carb floods easily and farts around because of the odd angle.

Vibration plays a part too. I have had situations where a slide type carb would not work because of the vibration and had to use a CV type. If "driveability" is an "issue" I wonder if a CV type of carb might be the answer? It would become a slight trade-off between driveability and performance (the CV type generally delivering less power).
If I had just bought a CV type from GIO (hint, hint) I would certainly try it out.


 
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Old 10-28-2009, 08:44 AM   #161
waynev   waynev is offline
 
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PCD, when i went to set the pressure to 175psi the nitrogen just leaked out around that snap type ring that holds that aluminum cap with the schrader valve on it.


 
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Old 10-28-2009, 10:06 AM   #162
katoranger   katoranger is offline
 
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175psi? Seems like alot.
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Old 10-28-2009, 11:07 AM   #163
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reveeen
Vibration plays a part too. I have had situations where a slide type carb would not work because of the vibration and had to use a CV type. If "driveability" is an "issue" I wonder if a CV type of carb might be the answer? It would become a slight trade-off between driveability and performance (the CV type generally delivering less power).
If I had just bought a CV type from GIO (hint, hint) I would certainly try it out.
I gather that there was a subtle hint in there...

I have a CV carb that has an electric choke, but it is sized for a 150. I'm going to install the bigger Mikuni and experiment with that instead.
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Old 10-28-2009, 11:34 AM   #164
waynev   waynev is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katoranger
175psi? Seems like alot.
On the GIO website the recommened pressure is 225-250psi, it also states not to go below 100psi.


 
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Old 10-28-2009, 12:53 PM   #165
TurboT   TurboT is offline
 
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All this talk of leaking shocks makes me a little nervous to pull the trigger on them. GIO has been selling these for quite some time and this is the first this issue has shown up in the forums.

I just received a second chance offer on one of my bids, but now I'm wondering if I should hold off and perhaps go with W&G's suggestion of stockers + heat to soften.


 
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