I ordered a new Hensim 250 street bike - Page 11

TheRealWorld · 03-22-2010, 01:43 PM

Thanks for the input, FastDoc. I have decided that I have some kind of a problem that I would describe as simply not enough release space between the clutch plates. No mater what I do, I can not get the clutch to completely disengage. At idol it will try to inch forward when the clutch is all the way back, and there is no more adjustment possible.

I thought if I ever opened it up, I might take a plate out if that was possible, it has been years since I had one of those apart.

FastDoc · 03-22-2010, 01:51 PM

Heres a better idea, I think. :idea:

I did this years ago on a GS1100 Suzuki that simply did not have enough 'clutch lever travel' to fully disengage the clutch.

In her case, it was probably slightly warped steel clutch plates, but this worked anyways.

Look at where your clutch lever stops against the perch. You will see how filing some of this material away from the lever, top and bottom will allow greater travel of the lever, and therefor the clutch plates themselves. Increasing the travel about 5 degrees should work.

Let me know if this makes sense or you need a picture.

TheRealWorld · 03-22-2010, 02:05 PM

It makes sense and I understand it. I will try it and get back to you. I have a busy day so maybe not today!

FastDoc · 03-22-2010, 02:07 PM

Of course the lever will be a little further out from the handlebar at rest, but unless you have small hands it should not make a difference.

TheRealWorld · 03-25-2010, 09:28 PM

OK, I did it and I was able to get it in to neutral for the first time running, it is not perfect but it is better and i will continue to play with it. I will let you know what I find. I am very busy so it will be awhile before I get to play!

Thanks for the advice!

FastDoc · 03-25-2010, 11:32 PM

Glad I could help! We look forward to your next installment!

TheRealWorld · 04-09-2010, 11:09 PM

I have developed a running issue after it warms up. It misses and sputters, like I am low on fuel, but I am not. I thought I would start with plugs, so I need a recommendation for plugs. I suppose it could be a fuel issue, but it runs good cold. It is a 250 Hensim two cylinder.

Any thoughts?

TheRealWorld · 04-26-2010, 10:15 PM

Plugs solved the problem, runs great now. Tranny still requires some patience.

TheRealWorld · 05-12-2010, 09:58 PM

Just an update. I continue to have some tranny problems at 2000 miles. The last time out was the worst I have ever had. This bike is famous for tranny trouble, and I have no idea what to do about it. I would not recommend this bike any more, for this reason. I also did the bushing thing and it helped a bit.

I took it for a ride tonight to test it and see how it worked, it is intact, but just needs TLC when shifting. I have mastered getting it into neutral while the engine is running, I need to get it to first gear then while coasting at idle speed shift to neutral while rolling without the clutch. It works!

FastDoc · 05-12-2010, 11:00 PM

Sorry to hear about the tranny. Hopefully it won't get worse and you'll have many otherwise happy miles!

TheRealWorld · 05-12-2010, 11:13 PM

I enjoy your input and thanks for the comments. I think it is worse when the engine is warm. I do have Rottella 10W40 synthetic oil in it.

Weldangrind · 05-12-2010, 11:32 PM

Maybe a switch to synthetic 20W50 four stroke motorcycle oil would help. Couldn't hurt, especially since the shifting gets worse as it warms up.

TheRealWorld · 05-12-2010, 11:46 PM

That is a great idea, I would love to resolve this issue. Thanks for the input.

Catdog · 06-26-2010, 09:05 PM

I also took 1/8 inch off the top of the clotch cable in line adgustment bracket. Good luck
catdog :P

TheRealWorld · 06-28-2010, 12:09 AM

So Catdog, How did it work for you? My situation has not changed, but I am still hoping for improvement.

03-22-2010, 01:51 PM	#152
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	Heres a better idea, I think. :idea: I did this years ago on a GS1100 Suzuki that simply did not have enough 'clutch lever travel' to fully disengage the clutch. In her case, it was probably slightly warped steel clutch plates, but this worked anyways. Look at where your clutch lever stops against the perch. You will see how filing some of this material away from the lever, top and bottom will allow greater travel of the lever, and therefor the clutch plates themselves. Increasing the travel about 5 degrees should work. Let me know if this makes sense or you need a picture. __________________ Happy to serve.
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03-22-2010, 02:07 PM	#154
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	Of course the lever will be a little further out from the handlebar at rest, but unless you have small hands it should not make a difference. __________________ Happy to serve.
	0

03-25-2010, 11:32 PM	#156
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	Glad I could help! We look forward to your next installment! __________________ Happy to serve.
	0

05-12-2010, 11:00 PM	#160
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	Sorry to hear about the tranny. Hopefully it won't get worse and you'll have many otherwise happy miles! __________________ Happy to serve.
	0

05-12-2010, 11:32 PM	#162
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Maybe a switch to synthetic 20W50 four stroke motorcycle oil would help. Couldn't hurt, especially since the shifting gets worse as it warms up. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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03-22-2010, 01:43 PM	#151
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	Thanks for the input, FastDoc. I have decided that I have some kind of a problem that I would describe as simply not enough release space between the clutch plates. No mater what I do, I can not get the clutch to completely disengage. At idol it will try to inch forward when the clutch is all the way back, and there is no more adjustment possible. I thought if I ever opened it up, I might take a plate out if that was possible, it has been years since I had one of those apart.
	0

03-22-2010, 02:05 PM	#153
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	It makes sense and I understand it. I will try it and get back to you. I have a busy day so maybe not today!
	0

03-25-2010, 09:28 PM	#155
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	OK, I did it and I was able to get it in to neutral for the first time running, it is not perfect but it is better and i will continue to play with it. I will let you know what I find. I am very busy so it will be awhile before I get to play! Thanks for the advice!
	0

04-09-2010, 11:09 PM	#157
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	I have developed a running issue after it warms up. It misses and sputters, like I am low on fuel, but I am not. I thought I would start with plugs, so I need a recommendation for plugs. I suppose it could be a fuel issue, but it runs good cold. It is a 250 Hensim two cylinder. Any thoughts?
	0

04-26-2010, 10:15 PM	#158
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	Plugs solved the problem, runs great now. Tranny still requires some patience.
	0

05-12-2010, 09:58 PM	#159
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	Just an update. I continue to have some tranny problems at 2000 miles. The last time out was the worst I have ever had. This bike is famous for tranny trouble, and I have no idea what to do about it. I would not recommend this bike any more, for this reason. I also did the bushing thing and it helped a bit. I took it for a ride tonight to test it and see how it worked, it is intact, but just needs TLC when shifting. I have mastered getting it into neutral while the engine is running, I need to get it to first gear then while coasting at idle speed shift to neutral while rolling without the clutch. It works!
	0

05-12-2010, 11:13 PM	#161
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	I enjoy your input and thanks for the comments. I think it is worse when the engine is warm. I do have Rottella 10W40 synthetic oil in it.
	0

05-12-2010, 11:46 PM	#163
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	That is a great idea, I would love to resolve this issue. Thanks for the input.
	0

06-26-2010, 09:05 PM	#164
Catdog Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 19	Clutch adjustment I also took 1/8 inch off the top of the clotch cable in line adgustment bracket. Good luck catdog :P
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06-28-2010, 12:09 AM	#165
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	So Catdog, How did it work for you? My situation has not changed, but I am still hoping for improvement.
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