Templar 250 resource guide

[vividpixel]

WOOSTAR 7/8" 22mm Handlebar 2 Function Right Start Switch
Copy and paste link: a.co/d/0GjGif1 (do not click it)

[Shinigami117s]

So I’m confused with the cdi page. Is it ac or dc cdi?
The YouTube video shows the naraku unit working on the bike.
It doesn’t say if it’s ac or dc but looks like it’s an ac unit according to eBay?

I have a Templar 250 6 speed with no spark. What pin out goes where?
I put both green wires to ground. The blue wire to the pulse igniter coil. The red wire to positive 12v . White wire I tried disconnected or connected to 12v . And the yel/blk wire to the coil.

I don’t get any spark.

I’ve tried 3 Templar cdi units no luck. I tried a gold colored one and it works.

[Twowheeler]

[QUOTE=Fast_Freddy;389714]This is a collaborative effort that will be updated as new information becomes available. Please contribute what you can and leave discussion in other threads. We want to keep this thread limited to Templar 250 spec's, facts, useful info and links. Thanks to everyone in advance for your contributions!

I bought the wrong NGK Iridium plug (DPR8EIX-9). It's longer than the OEM. I just ordered some OEM plugs. I could not find NGK DPREIX-9 (iridium). Maybe NGK discontinued it, or maybe it's a typo here, Idk. Also, my M rear shock is not the same as the X. There's no room to drill another hole. I've tried to put compressors on it to remove/replace it, but you can only get 1 on and it looks sketchy. I'd like to be able to get on it without Jackie Channing my leg over it. I'm definitely replacing the carb. The stock one is poorly adjusted. It spits and sputters and stalls. Also it makes the exhaust turn orange, when warming up. I can still start it and ride, but it uses a lot of fuel with it backfiring or whatever. I wish there were a dealer or shop that would work on it near me. There used to one, within 10 miles. None anywhere now. The Jap shops won't touch it, save for one place that will replace tires, etc. Any help/advice is welcome and appreciated. All I can find on here is tons of stuff about the X. I should have gotten it, but changed my mind at the last minute. I just had to have a kickstart.

[GypsyR]

Originally Posted by Twowheeler

I bought the wrong NGK Iridium plug (DPR8EIX-9). It's longer than the OEM.

I've meaning to buy a new plug. Does that mean a plug for the X doesn't fit the M engine? That would be good info for folks to know.

By the way, when you quote someone it's easy to trim it down to the specific bit you want to quote. Example: what I just did above. No need to copy four pages for a sentence or two. Could be a thing that bugs just me though.

[Twowheeler]

Originally Posted by Fast_Freddy

The Templar and M both have preload adjustment on the rear shock. Fork preload spacers are available from Joe Henner Motosports. You can contact him on Facebook. Here is a showing fork spacer installation. I myself am running Henner's max spacers which require a bit more disassembly to install but work great for my 250lb weight.

My 2022 M that I got in March 2023, has no adjustments and no gas charge. I tried to put spring clamps on in order to remove, but couldn't. I just wish now, that I'd bought the X. Mine has no way of drilling a hole higher up.

[Fast_Freddy]

Originally Posted by Twowheeler

I bought the wrong NGK Iridium plug (DPR8EIX-9). It's longer than the OEM. I just ordered some OEM plugs. I could not find NGK DPREIX-9 (iridium). Maybe NGK discontinued it, or maybe it's a typo here, Idk. Also, my M rear shock is not the same as the X. There's no room to drill another hole. I've tried to put compressors on it to remove/replace it, but you can only get 1 on and it looks sketchy. I'd like to be able to get on it without Jackie Channing my leg over it. I'm definitely replacing the carb. The stock one is poorly adjusted. It spits and sputters and stalls. Also it makes the exhaust turn orange, when warming up. I can still start it and ride, but it uses a lot of fuel with it backfiring or whatever. I wish there were a dealer or shop that would work on it near me. There used to one, within 10 miles. None anywhere now. The Jap shops won't touch it, save for one place that will replace tires, etc. Any help/advice is welcome and appreciated. All I can find on here is tons of stuff about the X. I should have gotten it, but changed my mind at the last minute. I just had to have a kickstart.

DPR8EIX-9 will work in the ZS172FMM-3A engine. Yes, it is slightly longer than the stock plug but dozens (possibly hundreds) of people have been running this plug without issue. To be safe you could install it and hand crank the engine to confirm clearance.

DPREIX-9 was a typo. All NGK plug numbers have a numeric value in the middle that represents the heat range of the plug. Thanks for pointing out my typo, I have corrected it.

Are you sure there is no spring pre-load adjustment on the rear shock? Only the X has damping adjustments but the base model definitely has pre-load adjustment and I was certain that the M also had pre-load adjustment rings.

Please do me a favor and start a new thread for your bike. Ask questions there and you should get lots of useful help. We are trying to keep this thread dedicated to general information about the Templar models. Thanks and by all means tune or replace the stock carb. It comes tuned too lean.

[Twowheeler]

Yeah, I just realized that it was huge, so I tried trimming it. I'm not very good at this.

[Twowheeler]

[QUOTE=GypsyR;406249]I've meaning to buy a new plug. Does that mean a plug for the X doesn't fit the M engine?
I do not know about the X. I have an M.

[Twowheeler]

Yes, my M has preload rings.

[Fast_Freddy]

Originally Posted by Twowheeler

Yes, my M has preload rings.

Thanks. In answer to your spark plug question, all Templars share the same engine and spark plug.

[Thumper]

I removed the link while lowering the 2022 5 speed Templar X.
You have to remove the rear brake to remove the front mounting bolt, but it isn't much work.

I did this to get dimensions to begin the quest for a compatible lowering link in aftermarket. THe dimensions are in the next post. This one is about the removal.

Feel free to search, or take these dimensions to your local Honda dealership (or anywhere!) and see if they have lowering links to measure dimensions. Or order one if you are feeling lucky.

-Place a center stand under the motor and get the rear wheel unweighted so the link isn't under stress. That's just touching the ground, so the shock isn't getting compressed or holding up the swingarm.

-The rear mounting bolt has a locking nut on the left side, and the left mount is threaded as well, so remove the nut, then unscrew the bolt.

I used a rod to tap it out after clearing the threads.



-Do you see the lower chain roller? That roller is held on the extension from the front mounting bolt. It won't be removable until you remove the bolt from the right side, but loosen the nut of the threads for now.



-The nut on the bolt needs to be held in place while you remove the bolt. I propped the combination wrench on a 12" 4x4 so I didn't have to hold it while I removed the bolt from the other side. It is partially obscured behind the chain in the photo:



Here is the right side (brake lever removed).



The bushing rides on needle bearings, as you would expect. I will post dimensions in the next post.

[Thumper]

I got the micrometer on it and took some measurements so we can begin looking for aftermarket lowering links.

[Thumper]

This bears repeating. My guess is that Honda CRF 250F lowering link will work. Maybe a different model. Or maybe a KTM. I can't order them and measure since they are not cheap. Maybe if free returns are OK (??!)

Anyway, until someone finds a lowering link, you can always shorten the rear shock on the Templar. 5/8" center to center (10mm bore) will give you about 1-3/4" lowering or more. Add a 1/4" to 1/2" front fork drop, and you are probably going to be happy with an inseem of 30-32". Almost flat footed, and the kickstand will still work. Maybe put the kickstand in a hole or downhill to be sure



We did this on the new 2024 Temp X for my son. We also dialed up about 175 lbs of additional preload (350 lbs/inch). AND reset the compression and rebound adjustment to 5 clicks off the bottom. So it sags less and feels more stiff. Nice feel. This is a ~$165 fully adjustable shock. You can leave the lock ring behind while you roll up the collar to keep track of how much additional preload you add. Buy the shock from PSM/Maxpro when they are in stock if you need one. Nice shock.

[Mumen Rider]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Anyway, until someone finds a lowering link, you can always shorten the rear shock on the Templar.

Debating if I want to pick one of these up come June 1st. Both list the 08 CRF250/450. My OEM link is actually bent from shipping.

[Mumen Rider]

Otom CRF250R front brake disc guards fit the front forks perfectly. You will need your own M6-1.0 bolts and washers to mount it.