Lifan 1P56FMJ 150cc wiring help

[Okierider]

Hello all.
I’m swapping the leaking 125cc that came on my sons pit bike from Amazon (X-Pro Bolt 125) for a Lifan 150cc (1P56FMJ). Motor mounts right up, easy peazy.

Only issue is the wire harness has a lot more hook ups. My sons 125 had connectors for the kill switch, ignition coil, and the ECU.
This has that and several others. (Pics to follow)

If anyone can help identify what’s what I’d appreciate it.

Engine model


First of two cables from motor-plugs into ecu


Second of two cables from engine-unknown


Pink, green, and yellow connectors from ECU wire loom (you can see them in the first picture)-Unknown


Yellow to ignition and 2 grounds


Green and black to kill switch


2-pin connector coming off of ECU-Unknown


Pink and green coming from ECU-Unknown

[Mudflap]

The extra wires are from the transmission switch. 1 for each of the 4 gears and 1 for neutral. The switch grounds these wires depending what gear it's in. They don't need to be connected at all.

[Mudflap]

[Okierider]

Originally Posted by Mudflap

The extra wires are from the transmission switch. 1 for each of the 4 gears and 1 for neutral. The switch grounds these wires depending what gear it's in. They don't need to be connected at all.

Ah thanks for the explanation!
Is that for a gear indicator, automatic transmission? Scooter?

[Okierider]

Originally Posted by Mudflap

Perfect!
So it seems my blue plug is for a rectifier then?
Can I just hook up a rectifier, add a battery, and then run 12v accessories off of it?

[Mudflap]

Originally Posted by Okierider

Ah thanks for the explanation!
Is that for a gear indicator, automatic transmission? Scooter?

It's for a gear indicator but some bikes just use the neutral wire.

[Mudflap]

Originally Posted by Okierider

Perfect!
So it seems my blue plug is for a rectifier then?
Can I just hook up a rectifier, add a battery, and then run 12v accessories off of it?

Depending on which stator is in your engine you can hook up a regulator/rectifier and run lights and accessories. I have a Lifan 140 on my old Trail 90 with all the lights, horn, etc., running on 12 volt regulated AC power with no battery. Where the diagram shows accessories there is regulated 14volts AC with or without a battery in the circuit. It's enough to run a 25 watt headlight and an LED tail light very brightly.

[Okierider]

Originally Posted by Mudflap

Depending on which stator is in your engine you can hook up a regulator/rectifier and run lights and accessories. I have a Lifan 140 on my old Trail 90 with all the lights, horn, etc., running on 12 volt regulated AC power with no battery. Where the diagram shows accessories there is regulated 14volts AC with or without a battery in the circuit. It's enough to run a 25 watt headlight and an LED tail light very brightly.

How can I tell if my stator is appropriate? Reading the voltage when it’s running?

[dirtbkr188]

THIS might give you a little more insight on what wires you'll use, just click on the pic at the top of the page to enlarge it.

[Okierider]

Well, having a problem now.

Motor is in but no spark.
Checked plug and coil with swap from known working unit-no dice
Checked that bike was grounded-continuity from stator to bike-good
Checked output from stator wire red/black to ground-1.5V

Bad stator? Shouldn’t it be 12v+\-?

[dirtbkr188]

Did you check for spark by holding the spark plug to a metal bolt head on the engine, while kicking it over by hand, or by touching a test light to the black/yellow wire that goes to the ignition coil, while kicking it over?

[Okierider]

Originally Posted by dirtbkr188

Did you check for spark by holding the spark plug to a metal bolt head on the engine, while kicking it over by hand, or by touching a test light to the black/yellow wire that goes to the ignition coil, while kicking it over?

visually at the plug first, then swapped for a known good plug, then tested coil output with voltmeter (less than a volt when kicked), then swapped for known good coil, then tested yellow and black wire to coil output, then stator ground wire to bike (good), then tested voltage from stator to CDI red and black wire), 1.4volts when kicked

And thanks for replying to both threads! Lol

[Okierider]

Originally Posted by jeffrey

If both engines are non electric start why not just swap the 125 stator and flywheel to the 150. They are easy to change if you have a Motion Pro #08-0026 fly wheel puller. That way it would be plug and go.

Flywheel on the 125 is different-actually quite a few things are different about these two despite being essentially the same motor.

And I don’t have a flywheel puller…yet.
Besides, if I have to replace the stator couldn’t I replace it with one that supports battery charging? Adding lights and electrics to this bike would be pretty cool.

[dirtbkr188]

According to the diagram below, the yellow wire from the stator is coming from the lighting coil, and ties into the yellow wire coming from the rectifier for lights.

[Okierider]

What’s the procedure for testing the 8 pin CDI?