Templar X 250

[tknj99]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Hap]

Originally Posted by NCtemplar250

Do you have a model number or link to the particular 42 you purchased?

Thats the one Tknj99 just listed above.

[Hap]

Originally Posted by tknj99

For me it was worth selling the Titan 5sp for the X 6sp but a small increment in engine size to a 300cc wouldn't be enough for me to make another change.. now make it a Templar X 450 and I'm in, of course without a huge jump in price

Yeah I agree. It’s going to take pretty good new bike for me to upgrade in the near future. But I do have a feeling we’re gonna see some good new bikes coming later on down the road.

[Okierider]

Originally Posted by Nutcracker

When I first got this bike I followed the engine break in procedure to around 500 miles. After the break in riding mostly hwy I've used the bike 80% dirt 20% hwy. I love taking the bike around town but it's more impressive as a trail bike. The 42 tooth rear sprocket with 13 tooth front is still a little quicker than I like on technical trails but it's absolutely doable.

I decided to order a complete rear rim & tire along with chain so I can quickly swap out from factory to a 14/42 gearing that offers great hwy ratios.

I'm not doing anything off-road without a Kickstarter backup. I love the thought of a 6 speed but I can honestly feel the vibrations has eased quite a bit after 1500 miles on this bike. It's a lot better on the crazy buzzing from no counterbalance engine now with miles and use...

The lack of kickstarter is a HUGE deal for me.
I was ready to get a 6 speed a few weeks ago, saw no kick starter, and out the credit card away.

[Zooker89]

Originally Posted by Okierider

The lack of kickstarter is a HUGE deal for me.
I was ready to get a 6 speed a few weeks ago, saw no kick starter, and out the credit card away.

I was always a kickstart guy, but someone here (Megadan) reminded me you can always bump start it. Not a deal breaker for me anymore....

[Zooker89]

I found a site to customize graphics for the X

motocal.com (sorry not a link) has customizable graphic kits for almost anything off road.

Since the plastics are from a '07 to '09 RMZ250 you can select it and make some cool stuff four your panels. They are a bit pricey.. The ones I am working on are a little over $200. You can deselect the ones that don't apply. Tons of colors and company logos to apply. If I was better at computers, I would show what I have "designed" so far.

Check it out and let me know what you think.

[NCtemplar250]

Originally Posted by Zooker89

I was always a kickstart guy, but someone here (Megadan) reminded me you can always bump start it. Not a deal breaker for me anymore....

Yeah, that's what I thought too. Bump starting is easy. I did all the time as a kid with a crap dirt bike that I owned.

[Nutcracker]

Originally Posted by Thumper

OK. I was just plain wrong on this.

I took my 6 speed Temp X out (50 degrees out today ) and went to the store for a new 1.75L Evan Williams which I dropped into my pack, and drove towards home. I took a detour onto the berms in the exit ramp and with the engine warmed up, did some testing. On a steep but short incline, I allowed it to roll back and used the clutch to brake, over and over. I also used it to recover and wheelie over the top a few times. I also stopped on the steepest part and used the clutch to hold position, then allowed it to roll back, then used it as a brake a few times.

The clutch never complained at all. No weird noises, no chudder. Just smooth forward thrust.

So based on all of the "use of clutch" videos for off road use, and now my own testing (I don't believe much unless I experience it ), the design of the multiplate wet clutch is completely OK with using the engine to make the drive train go forward from forward but slow, stopped, or rolling in reverse. I am not the authority on this, just the student getting a lesson.

Apparently, these multiplate wet clutches are pretty durable under such abuse. The force is spread over LOTS of surface area. It makes sense from an engineering point of view.

Now, whether that works as engineered depends on the quality of the components, and if they are assembled, tensioned (to torque spec), and that the slipping surfaces are fabricated with good materials, and to spec.

So if it doesn't like it, there is something wrong

Who sez you can't teach an old dog new tricks?

And BTW, this thread is approaching 1000 posts. The Templar series has an average failure rate (problems on arrival, issues showing up within 500 miles), but the price/value calculation is holding up fo most people pretty well. For those that have issue right now, and need PSM to respond, good luck. I guess a crate bike is just a crate bike. There is some luck of the draw at play.

So I figured out my reversing issue. It's is caused by picking up gravel mixed with mud then carried on the chain to the front sprocket. It appears to be where I ground material off for the fitment of the 14 tooth front sprocket. That gap is allowing larger material to get in-between casing and sprocket. Im constantly switching over from 14 to 13 along with rear tire to satisfy my off-road and on-road desires. The little pebbles and medium gravel sorta lodge in and my bike becomes a rock crusher in reverse. I now see maybe another reason why the tight chain clearance tolerance is required on all dirtbikes.

This is my first bike to grind away material for making room. Best to not cut all the material away from the dust guard if you do decide to upgrade to a 14tooth sprocket. I have very thin material left but it held up to rock cruising.. This only leads to opportunity to figure out a way to prevent the gravel and mud degree from entering. I believe the corporate was from a fresh driveway with a clay base. Sort of like mixing gravel and peanut butter together. I'm just going to stay clear of that for now.

As for the pinging noise on a steep decent using engine compression only for speed control I don't know we're it's coming from still. It's not a consistent noise just a tapping & slight pinging..

[Nutcracker]

Originally Posted by Zooker89

I was always a kickstart guy, but someone here (Megadan) reminded me you can always bump start it. Not a deal breaker for me anymore....

Try bump starting this bike in the field before a real life event requires it. I have put this bike in 5th rolling fairly quick to only have the rear tire drag. Only 9:1 compression but it feels like more... I'm not a fan of kick starting this bike either. I've found out when your battery only has a little life left hold the starter button down and kick at the same time....

[btr22]

Looking to get my first dirtbike at age 48. I’ve had a street bike 25 years ago so I know how to ride and shift gears. I will mostly ride off-road trails, single track, technical stuff in and around southern NH. Probably some fire roads and on the road to get from trail to trail. And I also have ridden snowmobile‘s for 20 years. I am leaning towards the base Templar because it’s $500 cheaper and I just want something to learn on and decide if I like the sport. If I like it, I can always upgrade later. The questions I’m not sure about are:

1) Does the 6 inch shorter wheelbase of the base make it easier to maneuver for a new rider? Is there disadvantages to a shorter wheelbase?
2) Is the seat hight noticeably lower on the base? I’m just under 5’10” tall.
3) I only weigh 148 pounds do you think the soft non-adjustable suspension would be OK off road?
4) Will I regret not getting the X??
5) Anything else helpful to my make my decision?

[Fast_Freddy]

Originally Posted by btr22

Looking to get my first dirtbike at age 48. I’ve had a street bike 25 years ago so I know how to ride and shift gears. I will mostly ride off-road trails, single track, technical stuff in and around southern NH. Probably some fire roads and on the road to get from trail to trail. And I also have ridden snowmobile‘s for 20 years. I am leaning towards the base Templar because it’s $500 cheaper and I just want something to learn on and decide if I like the sport. If I like it, I can always upgrade later. The questions I’m not sure about are:

1) Does the 6 inch shorter wheelbase of the base make it easier to maneuver for a new rider? Is there disadvantages to a shorter wheelbase?
2) Is the seat hight noticeably lower on the base? I’m just under 5’10” tall.
3) I only weigh 148 pounds do you think the soft non-adjustable suspension would be OK off road?
4) Will I regret not getting the X??
5) Anything else helpful to my make my decision?

I've owned the base Templar for only a few weeks and have never ridden the X so FWIW:

1) The shorter wheelbase will allow for quicker turning at the expense of some stability. Better suited for slower speeds and tighter trails.
2) I'm 6'1" and easily flat foot the Templar.
3) IMO you are the perfect weight for the Templar suspension. It's softly sprung.
4) Possibly, I don't yet. $500 buys a lot of gas and accessories.
5) The bad: No reserve on fuel petcock, only on or off. Tank only holds 1.72 gal. Seat is small. The good: A lot of enduro bike for the money.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by btr22

Looking to get my first dirtbike at age 48. I’ve had a street bike 25 years ago so I know how to ride and shift gears. I will mostly ride off-road trails, single track, technical stuff in and around southern NH. Probably some fire roads and on the road to get from trail to trail. And I also have ridden snowmobile‘s for 20 years. I am leaning towards the base Templar because it’s $500 cheaper and I just want something to learn on and decide if I like the sport. If I like it, I can always upgrade later. The questions I’m not sure about are:

1) Does the 6 inch shorter wheelbase of the base make it easier to maneuver for a new rider? Is there disadvantages to a shorter wheelbase?
2) Is the seat hight noticeably lower on the base? I’m just under 5’10” tall.
3) I only weigh 148 pounds do you think the soft non-adjustable suspension would be OK off road?
4) Will I regret not getting the X??
5) Anything else helpful to my make my decision?

For $1500, it is hard to find anything that comes close to the list of features it has. The non-adjustable suspension is the main caveat. You can work on that to improve it, like a simple fork oil change to good 15W, maybe spring shims on the front. Compatible rear shock with comp/rebound damping adjusters should be findable. But even as stock, you will have to work it pretty hard to really reach it's limits. If I was 20 years younger, I might disagree At least preload can be tightened.

Also, there is no denying that the venerable ZS172FMM-3A is a nice, durable engine with excellent torque curve. It is so easy to work on, and 5 gears is fine for off road work. My original Temp X has this engine, and I still like it better. I even restored the OEM 49 tooth rear sprocket (I changed 13 > 14T on the front). RPMs are way up there on the road, barely doing 60, but I just ride it off road anyway!

I wonder if Temp "M" will be back? PSM has a refurbed M for $1500 (Jan2023). Maybe offer them $1400

[Okierider]

Originally Posted by NCtemplar250

Yeah, that's what I thought too. Bump starting is easy. I did all the time as a kid with a crap dirt bike that I owned.

How do ya do that in the middle of a pasture, corn or wheat field?
Genuinely curious, I thought it required a downhill grade

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Okierider

How do ya do that in the middle of a pasture, corn or wheat field?
Genuinely curious, I thought it required a downhill grade

Get a battery with more CCA. If everything is adjusted, jetted, you don't need it, but otherwise...

Amazon has 'em back in stock. It fits tightly in the Temp X, maximizing the space.

Weize YTX5L-BS (80 CCA)

[Okierider]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Get a battery with more CCA. If everything is adjusted, jetted, you don't need it, but otherwise...

Amazon has 'em back in stock. It fits tightly in the Temp X, maximizing the space.

Weize YTX5L-BS

Attachment 28388

I already ordered one last week, will be here Thursday, God willing.
Still want a kickstarter on a bike I’m routinely in bfe with lol.

Hey what size is the fuel line on the X? I’ve got 1/4, 3/8, 5/16, nothing fits. Is it metric?