Templar 250 (not X or M)

Fast_Freddy · 12-22-2022, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thumper

I found mine at half turn out when I drilled it out. I dropped the pilot back to a #42. 45 was too rich on mine. I think I will try one turn out. I am glad it is easily adjusted from the side. Might need adjusting.

Fixed it!

I tested the new signals on the battery and they work properly so the new relay should do the job.

Thumper · 12-23-2022, 03:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fast_Freddy

Fixed it!

I tested the new signals on the battery and they work properly so the new relay should do the job.

It sounds like the relay is drawing too much current, dropping the voltage. Yup, needs new relay. Makes sense!

OH... Maybe the voltage is down on the battery. That could cause this too. It should read at least 12.5V, more like 13.2V if charged. I got a Weize YTX5L-BS which fits perfectly, edge to edge in the battery cradle. It has more CCA too. There are probably others with same dimensions. Or try charging your existing battery.

Fast_Freddy · 12-23-2022, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thumper

It sounds like the relay is drawing too much current, dropping the voltage. Yup, needs new relay. Makes sense!

OH... Maybe the voltage is down on the battery. That could cause this too. It should read at least 12.5V, more like 13.2V if charged. I got a Weize YTX5L-BS which fits perfectly, edge to edge in the battery cradle. It has more CCA too. There are probably others with same dimensions. Or try charging your existing battery.

The battery is fully charged (12.65v). The signal controls the illumination sequence, the relay controls the duration of current supply to the signal. The relay was removing current before the sequence was complete. It was dim because only 5-6 LEDs lit per flash. By slowing the flash and extending the current duration the signal can complete the sequence now. This also makes them brighter because all the LEDs now light up on every flash. Of course they are even brighter with the engine running due to the higher voltage.

I got everything back together and the only thing I forgot was the little crush washer on the choke where it mates with the carb and to take photos. I'll put it back on the next time I have things apart. I had two disappointing surprises during disassembly/reassembly. The left side tapped hole in the rear subframe where the rear taillight support frame attaches was stripped and the idle screw is hidden behind and tight against the frame making it very difficult to adjust. The stripped threads are an easy fix but the idle screw will always be a PITA.

Despite the problems, I like it more and more. Now all I need is some 40*+ days to ride it!

Thumper · 12-23-2022, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fast_Freddy

The battery is fully charged (12.65v). The signal controls the illumination sequence, the relay controls the duration of current supply to the signal. The relay was removing current before the sequence was complete. It was dim because only 5-6 LEDs lit per flash. By slowing the flash and extending the current duration the signal can complete the sequence now. This also makes them brighter because all the LEDs now light up on every flash. Of course they are even brighter with the engine running due to the higher voltage.

I got everything back together and the only thing I forgot was the little crush washer on the choke where it mates with the carb and to take photos. I'll put it back on the next time I have things apart. I had two disappointing surprises during disassembly/reassembly. The left side tapped hole in the rear subframe where the rear taillight support frame attaches was stripped and the idle screw is hidden behind and tight against the frame making it very difficult to adjust. The stripped threads are an easy fix but the idle screw will always be a PITA.

Despite the problems, I like it more and more. Now all I need is some 40*+ days to ride it!

Great news! I am using the Winter shutdown to get the bike ready. Not riding in 40's!, so it will be a couple of months.

Fast_Freddy · 12-31-2022, 02:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thumper

Great news! I am using the Winter shutdown to get the bike ready. Not riding in 40's!, so it will be a couple of months.

To confirm the turn signal situation, the adjustable flasher relay works well but the new signals are still not as bright as OEM, although adequate. I like them much better for the far superior rubber stalks and cool sequential lighting pattern.

I normally don't ride much below 50* but since the bike is new and the warranty short, I'm making an exception this winter.

I'd like to ask another opinion on a new issue. My signals, tail lamp and plate holder are part of a small subframe member that bolts to the seat subframe with M6 bolts threaded directly into the square tubing. On my bike there are 2 bolts on the right side and one on the left. The left one is stripped and I was going to drill it larger and tap it for an M8 bolt. However considering how thin walled that rear subframe is I am leaning toward using rivnuts instead. I already have the new M8 bolts and tap and also ordered SS M6 rivnuts from Amazon. I haven't used rivnuts much before and am unsure if this is a good application for them. Thoughts?

BTW, I'm liking this Templar more and more! Great engine! I had forgotten how squirrely it can get on just thawed ground/mud. I was sideways today but managed to stay wheels down and clean.