Hawk Talk

Azhule · 04-22-2019, 11:31 AM

ALT+167 (using the number pad) gives you the degree symbol º

Ariel Red Hunter · 04-23-2019, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azhule

ALT+167 (using the number pad) gives you the degree symbol º

Hey, thanks for that!...ARH ...Does this mean that ALT does not mean alternate universe?

Ariel Red Hunter · 04-23-2019, 08:53 PM

So now we go to the timing side of the engine. First, google up 'engine timing disc' and print it with your printer. Now glue it to a piece of card board, like from a cereal box. Attach it to the crankshaft tightly enough so it won't slip with the TDC mark on the flywheel/rotor line straight up, and zero on the disc pointed straight up. Now strip the insulation off of a piece of solid copper wire, and affix it somewhere on the motor cycle frame, and see that it doesn't move. Take out the spark plug to make this procedure go more easily. NOW we are going to degree in the valves. I don't know what the timing is on the little 229 cc engine, but I do know what it was on the Ariel Red Hunter engines including the 249 cc engine. And I know what the numbers are for the BSA Gold Star. What I want for you to do now is to take a clean piece of card board and draw four boxes on it. This is so you can compare the numbers with what you actually get off of your engine. Draw the boxes about 4 inches wide and 3 inches high. Separate the boxes by about 3 inches, so you don't confuse the numbers from one engine to another. If you've never done this before, it is quite confusing enough with out adding more things to scratch your head about. If you haven't done it already, remove the valve cover. It would be nice if you have two feeler guages. If you only have one, well, make do. Ariel wants you to check valve timing with the valves set at .0010 INCH. Why? The cam has quietening ramps, so called, that take up push rod and rocker slack before the valve actually begins to open, that's why. So, back to the boxes. Inside the boxes draw four equally vertical spaced lines. In the top left box write ARH and 229 under it, and below that write "normal". In the next box to the right, words one below another, "Inlet" then "opens" then "before" then "T.D.C." then "Degrees", then "14". Next column, Inlet, closes, after, B.D.C.,degrees, 62. Then in the next column, Exhaust, opens,before, B.D.C., Degrees, 62 and in the last column, Exhaust, closes, after, T.D.C., 17. Draw another horizontal line, then write in the left column Red Hunter, next column to the right "18", next right "68", next right, "63, and the last column, "23". Those are the Ariel valve timing MEASURED AT .0010 INCH CLEARENCE. Just like Ariel says to do it. Why should you care about this? Because I'm thinking that the `Hawk (and others) will have numbers close to the Red Hunter numbers. If any thing a little more cam than this, but not a lot. Now I'm getting a little tired, so I'll add some more tomorrow. Look at those boxes and wrap your mind around them, every word and number, top to bottom, so the next time someone says "Yeah, I've got 44-77-77-44 cams in my bike" you'll know exactly what he's/she's talking about....ARH

for your attention.

04-22-2019, 11:31 AM	#1
Azhule Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: CO Posts: 1,525	ALT+167 (using the number pad) gives you the degree symbol º __________________ "Think as you like... but this self proclaimed Professor is always right" - Buckshot "You never know what someone is hiding beneath their smile..." - NinjaTom - R.I.P.
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04-23-2019, 08:53 PM	#3
Ariel Red Hunter Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: akwesasne, NY-13655 Posts: 2,220	Barking back through the carburetor. And it won't run So now we go to the timing side of the engine. First, google up 'engine timing disc' and print it with your printer. Now glue it to a piece of card board, like from a cereal box. Attach it to the crankshaft tightly enough so it won't slip with the TDC mark on the flywheel/rotor line straight up, and zero on the disc pointed straight up. Now strip the insulation off of a piece of solid copper wire, and affix it somewhere on the motor cycle frame, and see that it doesn't move. Take out the spark plug to make this procedure go more easily. NOW we are going to degree in the valves. I don't know what the timing is on the little 229 cc engine, but I do know what it was on the Ariel Red Hunter engines including the 249 cc engine. And I know what the numbers are for the BSA Gold Star. What I want for you to do now is to take a clean piece of card board and draw four boxes on it. This is so you can compare the numbers with what you actually get off of your engine. Draw the boxes about 4 inches wide and 3 inches high. Separate the boxes by about 3 inches, so you don't confuse the numbers from one engine to another. If you've never done this before, it is quite confusing enough with out adding more things to scratch your head about. If you haven't done it already, remove the valve cover. It would be nice if you have two feeler guages. If you only have one, well, make do. Ariel wants you to check valve timing with the valves set at .0010 INCH. Why? The cam has quietening ramps, so called, that take up push rod and rocker slack before the valve actually begins to open, that's why. So, back to the boxes. Inside the boxes draw four equally vertical spaced lines. In the top left box write ARH and 229 under it, and below that write "normal". In the next box to the right, words one below another, "Inlet" then "opens" then "before" then "T.D.C." then "Degrees", then "14". Next column, Inlet, closes, after, B.D.C.,degrees, 62. Then in the next column, Exhaust, opens,before, B.D.C., Degrees, 62 and in the last column, Exhaust, closes, after, T.D.C., 17. Draw another horizontal line, then write in the left column Red Hunter, next column to the right "18", next right "68", next right, "63, and the last column, "23". Those are the Ariel valve timing MEASURED AT .0010 INCH CLEARENCE. Just like Ariel says to do it. Why should you care about this? Because I'm thinking that the `Hawk (and others) will have numbers close to the Red Hunter numbers. If any thing a little more cam than this, but not a lot. Now I'm getting a little tired, so I'll add some more tomorrow. Look at those boxes and wrap your mind around them, every word and number, top to bottom, so the next time someone says "Yeah, I've got 44-77-77-44 cams in my bike" you'll know exactly what he's/she's talking about....ARH for your attention.
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