Can anything be done about the clutch engagement point?

rd1959 · 09-19-2017, 07:05 PM

I've had my RX3 on the road for a couple weeks now and I love everything about it except for the very narrow clutch engagement point. Is there any way to modify the clutch to broaden the engagement point? Would different clutch plates or maybe a longer or shorter push rod make a difference?
BTW, I now know why so many of you have gone to the 13 tooth countershaft sprocket. Clutch slipping with the stock CS is a little excessive. I was thinking of trying a 46 tooth rear sprocket with the 14 tooth CS. I found a chart (that I can't find now) where you could enter different sprocket sizes and calculate the final drive ratio. and it showed a 13/44 setup would be, I think, 3.38 and a 14/46 was 3.22. The stock 14/44 final ratio was ,I think, 3.00. If I went to the 14/46 would that be enough to ease the clutch slipping? Thanks.

Jay In Milpitas · 09-19-2017, 08:33 PM

The push rod length is not something you want to mess with.

If adjusting the cable free play doesn't move the engagement point to a place you like, then mechanical alteration is called for. A broader engagement area would call for a longer arm on the throw-out arm (on top of the engine). It's something that can be done, if you have the equipment and skill.

I only use two fingers on the lever as the pull is quite light. Not that it makes any difference in engagement.

pyoungbl · 09-19-2017, 08:46 PM

rd, I just slip the clutch as needed. Yes, that seems like abuse but the clutch seems to deal with that. At the same time, I change the oil pretty frequently and I'm sure I'm flushing out lots of clutch crap. The clutch is made up of drive and driven plates. They are $16.50 and $3.90 each...X5. As a worst case you are looking at $120 more or less. Even if you have to replace the clutch plates it's really not a big deal. With that said, I cannot recall anyone having to do that, even the folks with 20-30K miles on their bikes seem to be on the original clutch plates. Spud and others, feel free to chime in to correct me.

Juanro · 09-19-2017, 08:56 PM

Hi,

You can try something like this, wich will both lighten the clutch pull and widen the lever action:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stunt-Clutch...-/322461176400

Juanro

Huck369 · 09-20-2017, 04:25 PM

I Shortened the arm on top of the motor on mine to increase the engagement range, works better, I only shortened it about 3/32"....Cut a little out, and welded it back together.

rd1959 · 09-20-2017, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Huck369

I Shortened the arm on top of the motor on mine to increase the engagement range, works better, I only shortened it about 3/32"....Cut a little out, and welded it back together.

Thanks. Did it increase clutch pull effort at all? Maybe I should suggest this to CSC to pass along to Zongshen for future models.

Inroads · 09-20-2017, 08:48 PM

Yes it will increase pull to shorten arm but could be compensated with those
Adjustable levers and some thorough cable lubing.

vttrailboss · 09-21-2017, 08:46 PM

For the easy install and low price, I'd try the 13 tooth front sprocket first. It made a big difference on not only clutch engagement, but gave me better power. Plus it didn't screw with the top end much (I still can cruise at 70+mph at 8-8500rpm all day). It definitely helped in the mountains!

I swapped it out at 1000 miles. About 2k now.

rd1959 · 09-23-2017, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vttrailboss

For the easy install and low price, I'd try the 13 tooth front sprocket first. It made a big difference on not only clutch engagement, but gave me better power. Plus it didn't screw with the top end much (I still can cruise at 70+mph at 8-8500rpm all day). It definitely helped in the mountains!

I swapped it out at 1000 miles. About 2k now.

Changing the front sprocket is something I'm considering. I'm also thinking of keeping the stock front sprocket and changing the rear to a 46. I found a final gear ratio calculator (can't find it now, though) that calculated a 13/44 setup as, I think 3.38 and the 14/46 as 3.22. Doesn't seem like a lot of difference between the two but, I don't know very much about changing final drive ratios.

rd1959 · 09-23-2017, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pyoungbl

rd, I just slip the clutch as needed. Yes, that seems like abuse but the clutch seems to deal with that. At the same time, I change the oil pretty frequently and I'm sure I'm flushing out lots of clutch crap. The clutch is made up of drive and driven plates. They are $16.50 and $3.90 each...X5. As a worst case you are looking at $120 more or less. Even if you have to replace the clutch plates it's really not a big deal. With that said, I cannot recall anyone having to do that, even the folks with 20-30K miles on their bikes seem to be on the original clutch plates. Spud and others, feel free to chime in to correct me.

Thanks. It may end up being something I'll have to learn to deal with. The only other bike I've ridden That I had to slip the clutch this much was a '91 Honda CR125 motocross bike.

Huck369 · 10-03-2017, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rd1959

Thanks. Did it increase clutch pull effort at all? Maybe I should suggest this to CSC to pass along to Zongshen for future models.

It did not increase the pull enough to notice, and I talked with Gerry at CSC about it when I first did it over a year ago

09-19-2017, 07:05 PM	#1
rd1959 Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Monroe,NC Posts: 131	Can anything be done about the clutch engagement point? I've had my RX3 on the road for a couple weeks now and I love everything about it except for the very narrow clutch engagement point. Is there any way to modify the clutch to broaden the engagement point? Would different clutch plates or maybe a longer or shorter push rod make a difference? BTW, I now know why so many of you have gone to the 13 tooth countershaft sprocket. Clutch slipping with the stock CS is a little excessive. I was thinking of trying a 46 tooth rear sprocket with the 14 tooth CS. I found a chart (that I can't find now) where you could enter different sprocket sizes and calculate the final drive ratio. and it showed a 13/44 setup would be, I think, 3.38 and a 14/46 was 3.22. The stock 14/44 final ratio was ,I think, 3.00. If I went to the 14/46 would that be enough to ease the clutch slipping? Thanks.
	0

09-19-2017, 08:33 PM	#2
Jay In Milpitas Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Milpitas, CA. USA Posts: 775	The push rod length is not something you want to mess with. If adjusting the cable free play doesn't move the engagement point to a place you like, then mechanical alteration is called for. A broader engagement area would call for a longer arm on the throw-out arm (on top of the engine). It's something that can be done, if you have the equipment and skill. I only use two fingers on the lever as the pull is quite light. Not that it makes any difference in engagement. __________________ Horse holder at Madame Orr's House.
	0

09-20-2017, 04:25 PM	#5
Huck369 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Somerset, KY Posts: 687	I Shortened the arm on top of the motor on mine to increase the engagement range, works better, I only shortened it about 3/32"....Cut a little out, and welded it back together. __________________ Huck 2013 Honda NC700X 2013 Moto Guzzi V7 Stone 2016 AJP PR4 2022 Templar X 250 2021 Sondors Metacycle AMA Life Member
	1

09-21-2017, 08:46 PM	#8
vttrailboss Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Vermont Posts: 62	For the easy install and low price, I'd try the 13 tooth front sprocket first. It made a big difference on not only clutch engagement, but gave me better power. Plus it didn't screw with the top end much (I still can cruise at 70+mph at 8-8500rpm all day). It definitely helped in the mountains! I swapped it out at 1000 miles. About 2k now. __________________ Newest machine: 2020... Oldest: 1916'ish
	3

09-19-2017, 08:46 PM	#3
pyoungbl Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Portsmouth, Virginia, USA Posts: 632	rd, I just slip the clutch as needed. Yes, that seems like abuse but the clutch seems to deal with that. At the same time, I change the oil pretty frequently and I'm sure I'm flushing out lots of clutch crap. The clutch is made up of drive and driven plates. They are $16.50 and $3.90 each...X5. As a worst case you are looking at $120 more or less. Even if you have to replace the clutch plates it's really not a big deal. With that said, I cannot recall anyone having to do that, even the folks with 20-30K miles on their bikes seem to be on the original clutch plates. Spud and others, feel free to chime in to correct me.
	0

09-19-2017, 08:56 PM	#4
Juanro Join Date: Oct 2015 Posts: 321	Hi, You can try something like this, wich will both lighten the clutch pull and widen the lever action: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stunt-Clutch...-/322461176400 Juanro
	0

09-20-2017, 08:48 PM	#7
Inroads Join Date: May 2015 Location: Wimberley Texas Posts: 193	Yes it will increase pull to shorten arm but could be compensated with those Adjustable levers and some thorough cable lubing.
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