fork oil change - Page 4

SpudRider · 05-31-2017, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inroads

Anyone have new info on aftermarket fork springs ?

I haven't heard any updates, but I might call CSC and ask about it.

SpudRider · 05-31-2017, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AdventureDad

Just a question reviving an old post.... would changing the stock oil be a bad idea for me, as I weigh 165, but occasionally ride 2up. Also, would the Mobil 1 ATF or the lighter Valvoline ATF be better? Lastly, after reading this thread and tutorial, would I remove the spring and pump the forks until 330ml comes out, or it's empty? If i don't get 330ml's out, I would just replace with the amount removed.

Ive not done fork oil before.

Thanks all!

I believe changing your fork oil would be a good idea. I recommend the heavier, Mobil1 Synthetic ATF.

I suggest you remove the spring and pump the forks to remove all the old fork oil. After removing all the old fork oil, I recommend you fill each fork with 330 ml of new fork oil.

The job isn't hard, and I'm sure you will be glad with the results.

pete · 06-01-2017, 01:53 AM

use fork oil not ATF....
ATF is for lubication and has a high firm strength compaired
to fork oil & that firm strength is the problum it captures air bubbles
to easly and dosn't release them quickly... so the oil
weight or CST rating is all over the place depending how
much air it is holding...
fork oil is designed not to froth up as it is pushed though the holes
/valves & has a low firm strength that dosn't capture air easy
but if it dose it releases it quickly...

but that being said the RX3 / hawk and others ATF is prob usable
as the suspension has limited quite slow travel in it's intended use..
but there is far better oil out there designed for the job...

Lintern the guy that builds my suspension has a saying..
"you only know as good as you have riden"

..

RC · 06-11-2017, 10:32 PM

"Assembly is the opposite of the disassembly procedure."

Can someone provide advice on getting the inner seal seated? I tried tapping with a screwdriver, but am reluctant to tap hard and damage the seal. I've tried pounding the upper and lowers together (opposite of the disassembly) but the dust seal gets into place and the inner seal still isn't seated enough to get the C clip in place. I then cut a 1" length of PVC pipe, hacked a section off so it in a C shape, stretched it over the lower tube, and trying slamming it the tubes together again, but the PVC is riding up on the dust seal and I don't want to damage it. I also tried some lite hammering with no advancement. I then cut a 5" length of PVC and stretched it over the tube and tried slamming it down onto the seal, but the PVC is just too lite.

I was able to get the washer and seal seated in the upper tube while the lower tube is removed, just to confirm it can go back in there. I'm wondering if I should try installing the lower tube with the seal already seated in the upper? There will be a few tricks on getting those bearing rings on, but maybe it can work.

Rangerscott · 06-12-2017, 12:31 AM

SpudRider · 06-12-2017, 12:57 AM

Setting the fork oil seal is easiest with a fork seal driver of the appropriate size. However, if you don't have a fork seal driver, you can use the method shown in the following video.

RC · 06-12-2017, 03:11 AM

Old Fork seal! So simple!

I knew I was on the right track with the PVC, but it was just missing the mark. I was going to reuse the old seals because they are still in perfect condition at 11k miles, and keep the new ones as spares. Maybe I'll stop by the local shop and see if I can find some cheap generic seals to cut and use. If not I'll buy a new set of backups because they are cheap.

Thanks for the tips!!

Rangerscott · 06-13-2017, 11:32 AM

When I was flipping a sport bike, I used Redline fork oil. On paper it has the best specs but who knows. Theres a guy on ebay (d_on_rr) that sells it at a good price.

2LZ · 07-25-2017, 10:53 AM

Revisiting this older thread.

For the first time in my life, I'm not completely happy with my tried and true Bel Ray 10W fork oil that I've run in every bike since I was a teenager. It just seems the RX3 has a bit too much jarring on the elbows (that goes all the way to your teeth) on some of our really pocky "paved and constantly patched" goat trails. I was first searching for some progressive rate springs (without success) but I may try the 7.5W ATF this time, just to see if it softens up the initial 2" of travel. After I get in to some heavier stuff and the forks are more compressed, it's fine. It's just that initial first couple of inches that need to be more forgiving.

Has anyone had success working with this?

SpudRider · 07-25-2017, 02:05 PM

I used the Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc ATF in the forks of my Zongshen ZS200GY-2. It has the viscosity you desire, and does an excellent job. If you like, refer to post #13 and post #14 in this thread.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14672

06-01-2017, 01:53 AM	#48
pete Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: ChCh , NZ Posts: 2,266	use fork oil not ATF.... ATF is for lubication and has a high firm strength compaired to fork oil & that firm strength is the problum it captures air bubbles to easly and dosn't release them quickly... so the oil weight or CST rating is all over the place depending how much air it is holding... fork oil is designed not to froth up as it is pushed though the holes /valves & has a low firm strength that dosn't capture air easy but if it dose it releases it quickly... but that being said the RX3 / hawk and others ATF is prob usable as the suspension has limited quite slow travel in it's intended use.. but there is far better oil out there designed for the job... Lintern the guy that builds my suspension has a saying.. "you only know as good as you have riden" .. __________________ 09 XT660R ... 06 TTR250 ... 80 Montesa H6 125 Enduro... 77 Montesa Cota 348 MRR "Malcom Rathnell Replica"... Current resto projects.. 81 Honda CT110... 80 Kawasaki KL250A1... 11 Husaburg TE125 enduro... "sold" along with another 31... Lifan 125 Pitbike.. "stolen" ... KIWI BIKER FORUM...... http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/content.php All the best offroad rides in NZ... http://www.remotemoto.com/ E-mail... xtpete1@gmail.com
	2

06-12-2017, 12:57 AM	#51
SpudRider Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Idaho Posts: 25,054	Setting the fork oil seal is easiest with a fork seal driver of the appropriate size. However, if you don't have a fork seal driver, you can use the method shown in the following video. __________________ Spud "Never argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level, and beat you with experience." Mark Twain 2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3) 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200) 2005 Honda XR650L 2004 Honda CRF250X 1998 Kawasaki KDX220 Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894
	0

07-25-2017, 10:53 AM	#54
2LZ Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Volcano, Ca Posts: 7,112	Revisiting this older thread. For the first time in my life, I'm not completely happy with my tried and true Bel Ray 10W fork oil that I've run in every bike since I was a teenager. It just seems the RX3 has a bit too much jarring on the elbows (that goes all the way to your teeth) on some of our really pocky "paved and constantly patched" goat trails. I was first searching for some progressive rate springs (without success) but I may try the 7.5W ATF this time, just to see if it softens up the initial 2" of travel. After I get in to some heavier stuff and the forks are more compressed, it's fine. It's just that initial first couple of inches that need to be more forgiving. Has anyone had success working with this? __________________ "Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350
	0

07-25-2017, 02:05 PM	#55
SpudRider Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Idaho Posts: 25,054	I used the Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc ATF in the forks of my Zongshen ZS200GY-2. It has the viscosity you desire, and does an excellent job. If you like, refer to post #13 and post #14 in this thread. http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14672 __________________ Spud "Never argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level, and beat you with experience." Mark Twain 2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3) 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200) 2005 Honda XR650L 2004 Honda CRF250X 1998 Kawasaki KDX220 Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894
	2

06-11-2017, 10:32 PM	#49
RC Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: EurAsia Posts: 46	"Assembly is the opposite of the disassembly procedure." Can someone provide advice on getting the inner seal seated? I tried tapping with a screwdriver, but am reluctant to tap hard and damage the seal. I've tried pounding the upper and lowers together (opposite of the disassembly) but the dust seal gets into place and the inner seal still isn't seated enough to get the C clip in place. I then cut a 1" length of PVC pipe, hacked a section off so it in a C shape, stretched it over the lower tube, and trying slamming it the tubes together again, but the PVC is riding up on the dust seal and I don't want to damage it. I also tried some lite hammering with no advancement. I then cut a 5" length of PVC and stretched it over the tube and tried slamming it down onto the seal, but the PVC is just too lite. I was able to get the washer and seal seated in the upper tube while the lower tube is removed, just to confirm it can go back in there. I'm wondering if I should try installing the lower tube with the seal already seated in the upper? There will be a few tricks on getting those bearing rings on, but maybe it can work.
	0

06-12-2017, 12:31 AM	#50
Rangerscott Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Texas Posts: 165
	0

06-12-2017, 03:11 AM	#52
RC Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: EurAsia Posts: 46	Old Fork seal! So simple! I knew I was on the right track with the PVC, but it was just missing the mark. I was going to reuse the old seals because they are still in perfect condition at 11k miles, and keep the new ones as spares. Maybe I'll stop by the local shop and see if I can find some cheap generic seals to cut and use. If not I'll buy a new set of backups because they are cheap. Thanks for the tips!!
	0

06-13-2017, 11:32 AM	#53
Rangerscott Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Texas Posts: 165	When I was flipping a sport bike, I used Redline fork oil. On paper it has the best specs but who knows. Theres a guy on ebay (d_on_rr) that sells it at a good price.
	0