Battery troubles w/pics

Jonny · 07-02-2012, 04:43 PM

First battery seemed bad the day I got my bike 3.5 years ago.
I replaced it with a good seal proof 5Ah about 2 months ago and it was constantly dead after recharging aside from the starter sucking it dry in 2-3 minutes when I had fuel system confusion to sort out.

They sent me another battery and I am about to test the system for leakage with the key and run switch off.
Has anyone else had power issues similar to this?

I greatly suspect the bike isn't recharging the batteries to begin with. After my hell ride the other night, Stood the bike up and got the bike to barely restart with the juice in it. Road fast and far enough that it should have had at least a few good starter cranks in it. When I stalled minutes later having forgot I switch the fuel off after wiping out, hardly enough to get the starter to just groan.
Bike still isn't broken in enough to kick start like so many others seem to achieve easily in their vids.

I have a nice billet aluminum headlight I'm building to put on it along with a few other electrical doodads.
I will just install a master kill switch if necessary but would like to avoid this. I haven't bothered wire tracing but if the ignition switch is wired properly it should be a master kill switch already!

Jonny · 07-02-2012, 05:58 PM

To answer my own question and for those with a similar issue, there's a very very...VERY small leak in the circuit. Maybe a few dozen mA which is enough to run the battery down in a day or so if it's not getting an efficient charge lucratively.

Now to determine if my generator actually works!

Jonny · 07-02-2012, 07:43 PM

I traced the current drain to this.
It's not much just a few dozen mA but I am also fearing my battery isn't receiving a charge.
Does anyone know what this heat sink encases?

humanbeing · 07-02-2012, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonny

...Does anyone know what this heat sink encases?...

Measure there's input voltage from alternator to that thingy, then measure ouput voltage/ current from it. 15V is the max output voltage if that thingy is healthy
What's inside: http://www.motorfans.com.cn/bbs/t_87337.htm
btw What's the plug looks like? Fleabay had some great deal if the plug matches.

MICRider · 07-02-2012, 08:44 PM

Lol! You had me at the title!

# 1 Nude Pornographic - three-phase rectifier (pictures)

MICRider · 07-02-2012, 08:47 PM

I was going to mention as well, I don't know about the X31 charging system but I have a GIO Beast with the 200cc pushrod engine and the alternator output is so weak on it that I can't even keep the lights on at night without killing the battery... I've gotten into the habit of trickle charging it the night before I plan on using it just to be sure it will have enough juice to start. Kinda sucks but what can you do? :?

Jonny · 07-02-2012, 09:08 PM

I'm going to get it started and see what kind of voltage and of course amperes I am getting out of that rectifier. If the onboard generator is that much of a dud it would probably be easier to mod an old RC car high output engine and build my own!

I dunno...dad's an electrician, I'm about 6 months into my electronic engineering degree with many years experience in audio so damn it we should be able to come up with a better fix!

Pops says just add another kill switch :?
I think I just may be adding that and a jack to trickle charge it.
If I add a headlight it will certainly be LED with this power crisis 8O

humanbeing · 07-03-2012, 12:39 AM

Chinese knows the problem, upgrade parts isn't expensive there. Some "clever" Taiwanese took the advantage that they can reads & order the suitable parts directly from the source (the market price is marked up at least 3x if shop locally in TW) for their project.

88.6mm 180W stator http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=1651715694 (for stock that's a "8" like this http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=15792647080)
15A 3-phase rectifier http://www.sanxin.com.cn/exhibit/exhview.asp?pid=45
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=6155324098 | extra plug for those non-common "black sheep" http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=6155324098
DC-CDI: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=999701426

Jonny · 07-03-2012, 12:49 AM

I am just going to pull the rectifier and see what's going on inside. Would not be at all surprised if it looks like it was soldered by a kangaroo

Jonny · 07-03-2012, 01:04 AM

Okay I won't!
It's epoxy sealed so strictly a throw away.
Now do I buy another one to find out this is the problem or it isn't......

Jonny · 07-07-2012, 03:34 AM

Just an update on a nice fix for anyone with this current leak in their electrical. I almost bought a new key switch for this repair...damn it I hate when I over think things. I guess that's why I'm getting an engineering degree :P

Tomorrow I will pull the key switch.
To it run 4 leads. Just need to splice these together accordingly.
After some inspection, hopefully I can use the same key switch.
If not, they are about 3 bucks on Chinbay.

Once that is sorted out....
Cut the common(black) leads off your battery.
Run a wire from your battery to your frame.
Run a lead from the two common(black) wires of your electrical system to the key switch.
Run a wire from the other lug of the key switch to your frame.

We now have a TRUE kill switch and no more current leak.
*HOWEVER*
I notice these key switches don't tend to handle more than 2 amps. I doubt the stock is any better and expect it to cook before too long. For that reason, I'll end up replacing it soon anyway.

Now hopefully when I test my alternator, I am producing some effective current to keep that battery charged. Still haven't gotten to this task yet.

07-02-2012, 04:43 PM	#1
Jonny Join Date: Jun 2012 Posts: 90	Battery troubles w/pics First battery seemed bad the day I got my bike 3.5 years ago. I replaced it with a good seal proof 5Ah about 2 months ago and it was constantly dead after recharging aside from the starter sucking it dry in 2-3 minutes when I had fuel system confusion to sort out. They sent me another battery and I am about to test the system for leakage with the key and run switch off. Has anyone else had power issues similar to this? I greatly suspect the bike isn't recharging the batteries to begin with. After my hell ride the other night, Stood the bike up and got the bike to barely restart with the juice in it. Road fast and far enough that it should have had at least a few good starter cranks in it. When I stalled minutes later having forgot I switch the fuel off after wiping out, hardly enough to get the starter to just groan. Bike still isn't broken in enough to kick start like so many others seem to achieve easily in their vids. I have a nice billet aluminum headlight I'm building to put on it along with a few other electrical doodads. I will just install a master kill switch if necessary but would like to avoid this. I haven't bothered wire tracing but if the ignition switch is wired properly it should be a master kill switch already!
	0

07-07-2012, 03:34 AM	#11
Jonny Join Date: Jun 2012 Posts: 90	Fix that current leak in your power system! Just an update on a nice fix for anyone with this current leak in their electrical. I almost bought a new key switch for this repair...damn it I hate when I over think things. I guess that's why I'm getting an engineering degree :P Tomorrow I will pull the key switch. To it run 4 leads. Just need to splice these together accordingly. After some inspection, hopefully I can use the same key switch. If not, they are about 3 bucks on Chinbay. Once that is sorted out.... Cut the common(black) leads off your battery. Run a wire from your battery to your frame. Run a lead from the two common(black) wires of your electrical system to the key switch. Run a wire from the other lug of the key switch to your frame. We now have a TRUE kill switch and no more current leak. HOWEVER I notice these key switches don't tend to handle more than 2 amps. I doubt the stock is any better and expect it to cook before too long. For that reason, I'll end up replacing it soon anyway. Now hopefully when I test my alternator, I am producing some effective current to keep that battery charged. Still haven't gotten to this task yet.
	0

07-02-2012, 05:58 PM	#2
Jonny Join Date: Jun 2012 Posts: 90	To answer my own question and for those with a similar issue, there's a very very...VERY small leak in the circuit. Maybe a few dozen mA which is enough to run the battery down in a day or so if it's not getting an efficient charge lucratively. Now to determine if my generator actually works!
	0

07-02-2012, 07:43 PM	#3
Jonny Join Date: Jun 2012 Posts: 90	I traced the current drain to this. It's not much just a few dozen mA but I am also fearing my battery isn't receiving a charge. Does anyone know what this heat sink encases?
	0

07-02-2012, 08:44 PM	#5
MICRider Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 3,274	Lol! You had me at the title! # 1 Nude Pornographic - three-phase rectifier (pictures)
	0

07-02-2012, 08:47 PM	#6
MICRider Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 3,274	I was going to mention as well, I don't know about the X31 charging system but I have a GIO Beast with the 200cc pushrod engine and the alternator output is so weak on it that I can't even keep the lights on at night without killing the battery... I've gotten into the habit of trickle charging it the night before I plan on using it just to be sure it will have enough juice to start. Kinda sucks but what can you do? :?
	0

07-02-2012, 09:08 PM	#7
Jonny Join Date: Jun 2012 Posts: 90	I'm going to get it started and see what kind of voltage and of course amperes I am getting out of that rectifier. If the onboard generator is that much of a dud it would probably be easier to mod an old RC car high output engine and build my own! I dunno...dad's an electrician, I'm about 6 months into my electronic engineering degree with many years experience in audio so damn it we should be able to come up with a better fix! Pops says just add another kill switch :? I think I just may be adding that and a jack to trickle charge it. If I add a headlight it will certainly be LED with this power crisis 8O
	0

07-03-2012, 12:39 AM	#8
humanbeing Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 2,436	Chinese knows the problem, upgrade parts isn't expensive there. Some "clever" Taiwanese took the advantage that they can reads & order the suitable parts directly from the source (the market price is marked up at least 3x if shop locally in TW) for their project. 88.6mm 180W stator http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=1651715694 (for stock that's a "8" like this http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=15792647080) 15A 3-phase rectifier http://www.sanxin.com.cn/exhibit/exhview.asp?pid=45 http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=6155324098 \| extra plug for those non-common "black sheep" http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=6155324098 DC-CDI: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=999701426
	0

07-03-2012, 12:49 AM	#9
Jonny Join Date: Jun 2012 Posts: 90	I am just going to pull the rectifier and see what's going on inside. Would not be at all surprised if it looks like it was soldered by a kangaroo
	0

07-03-2012, 01:04 AM	#10
Jonny Join Date: Jun 2012 Posts: 90	Okay I won't! It's epoxy sealed so strictly a throw away. Now do I buy another one to find out this is the problem or it isn't......
	0