11-13-2011, 12:23 AM
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#16 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Hazelton, BC, Canada
Posts: 109
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Thanks a million for the great explanation Weld, that is EXACTLY the problem with the Tao. I don't know the language, other than it doesn't all line up. The Gio Beast limited seems to be fine in this regard and I've driven it at high speeds - do NOT recommend fast on the Tao though.
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11-13-2011, 01:28 PM
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#17 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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You're welcome. Speed is the key; with my wife or daughter driving it, I have no worries.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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12-02-2011, 11:42 PM
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#18 |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 37
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ata 150b
Ive been thinking about your review.
I did see that my chain tensioner is crooked and the bushing might be backwards.So its something i have to work on.The muffler rattles to. But it seems to run good and handle good. I had fun spinning donuts in the snow on the street.I was thinking about my honda 250x i had and at high speeds it handled a little goofy,i just ignored it,so far the 150b seems ok to me.I really dont ride that fast anymore. |
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01-29-2012, 05:41 PM
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#19 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Hazelton, BC, Canada
Posts: 109
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Glad the Tao is working for you Ron.
Hope it is still ok. Trick to not breaking the footwells is to not put any weight on the heel part of them. The bushings in our Tao - replaced them with metal and its not perfect but far more durable. The heavier chain is highly recommended and I just removed our tensioner, and the rear end is much more reliable now. Also had some of the lights burn out, so replaced em all with LEDs a while back. For the muffler, I put some rubber bushings between the muffler mount and the muffler and that reduced some of the vibration in the seat. jb |
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01-29-2012, 07:57 PM
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#20 |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 37
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150b
I took the chrome muffler cap off and the rattle went away.
The foot peg plastic area seems ok,i did think about turning the bolts around or grinding them off,they stick down a bit and might catch something underneath. I well get a better chain,before i do this i might count the sprocket teeth mabe get one for the front that is one tooth smaller.Last time i bought a chain off ebay and got one that was twice as long as needed,so spare new chain. I also think about a bar across the back with some big mudflaps,im not that into getting covered in mud.Mabe bolt that to the rear rack. I took one of the big bolts that hold the chain adjuster tight and bought one longer and put in a tow hook on where it goes on. I just fiddle with little things and im happy with it so far. |
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02-24-2012, 01:50 AM
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#21 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Hazelton, BC, Canada
Posts: 109
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Awesome thanks for the update! I haven't done much with ours in the winter, want to get some new front tires as the one is worn out for some reason.
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11-05-2014, 09:04 PM
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#22 |
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1
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can anyone tell me how to check the rear brakes on the Tao Tao, ATA 150-b it has a small master cylinder but I don't really know how it is suppose to work... it appears to be a plunger type system but it is not building any pressure at all. any advise would be appreciated....
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11-05-2014, 11:35 PM
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#23 |
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 118
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If it is like mine there is a little black cap on top that is held on with a torx or allen screw. Take the screw out and you can remove the cap. There is also a small window that you can look through to see if there is any fluid in there. I just had to bleed mine a few months ago. The cylinder was empty even though I found no leaks. Fresh fluid every two years is good though.
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08-26-2015, 06:04 PM
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#24 |
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 20
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The Bull 150 which is the updated version of the 150D seems to have some of these items corrected. Rubber mounted rear hanger for the exhaust and other improvements.
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08-26-2015, 09:04 PM
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#25 |
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Deerfield Beach FL
Posts: 1,410
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I know this is an old thread but isn't there a common fix now for this bump steer problem. Something about taking the control arms off and attaching them to the top or bottom of the frame or something like that? A simple unbolt them and bolt them on differently. I can't remember the details but it is now a common fix.
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08-27-2015, 01:36 AM
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#26 |
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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I corrected the bumpsteer on my wife's quad by flipping the tie rod ends. It was Dave's suggestion, and it worked beautifully.
__________________
Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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08-27-2015, 05:14 PM
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#28 |
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Volcano, Ca
Posts: 7,112
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Glad I ran across this thread! I've been looking at this exact quad! (possibly a pair)....but I can see now it's the 150 "D" instead of B. Hopefully a lot of these items have been addressed, regarding quality and fit on the new models since 2011.
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"Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350 |
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11-04-2015, 07:07 PM
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#29 |
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 20
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The "B" and the "D" were 2 different model, but very similar. Both have been replaced with the Bull 150.
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Linear Mode
