Brozz-a-licious

herbie · 06-12-2019, 04:52 AM

Well its all done, its a pretty easy assembly really, just nuts and bolts.

Just a few notes in case someone is assembling a Brozz.
1) Make sure tab on speedometer housing is in between the notch on the front wheel hub.
2) Front fender as noted above
3) Check all wiring connections before installing headlight. I had a ground wire bullet connecter that came out and that would cause all kinds of electrical issues.
I changed the engine oil not because the shipped oil is junk oil or anything like that but I'm sure that the oil has been in the engine sitting there for several months and it's not a sealed system so moisture and contaminants can work there way inside. So I put in some fresh Rotella T4 15w40.

Valve adjustment: Super simple to do, remove 3 bolts in valve cover and pull cover off, mine came off on the exhaust pipe side easier oddly enough. Remove the big plug on top side of left engine cover, and remove spark plug. Turn engine over with the kick starter slowly and watch the valve movements and when you see the intake valve open and close look in the hole where the big plug was and align the T line to the housing. Verify that piston is at top of the stroke by looking into the spark plug hole. Time to check adjustment. My intake was at .002 and exhaust was at least .001 or less. I set the intake to .004 and the exhaust to .005.

Okay time to start it, filled with gas, set the choke to half choke and hit the starter button and it fired right up! :clap
The bike ran and revved great with no hesitations at all. The thing that surprised me was how smooth it was and very little to none on vibrations. Also I was kinda expecting the transmission to feel a little notchy or stiff until it broke in but really it shifted very nice and pretty smooth as well. Everything worked as it should with no problems at all, lights all worked, speedo, tach, gas gauge, shift indicator all worked great. The only real thing was burning off the oils and paint on the exhaust, man that thing was smoking. But it got better over time, although I didn't spend a lot of time riding it yet. I definitely will be deleting the catalytic convertor sometime soon, probably after the engine warranty expires. I'm not as worried about the obstruction that it causes as I am about the heat it is putting to the cylinder as it sits right next to it. That can't be good on it and will probably cause premature engine problems at least IMHO.

It is a whole different world coming off of a 100hp and probably close to 700 lb bike to this but its lightweight and fun to throw around. It definitely won't be winning any races but that's not what I bought it for anyway. So far so good and I do like it. I will review the bike when I put several hundred miles on it.

06-12-2019, 04:52 AM	#11
herbie Join Date: May 2019 Location: Illinois Posts: 864	Well its all done, its a pretty easy assembly really, just nuts and bolts. Just a few notes in case someone is assembling a Brozz. 1) Make sure tab on speedometer housing is in between the notch on the front wheel hub. 2) Front fender as noted above 3) Check all wiring connections before installing headlight. I had a ground wire bullet connecter that came out and that would cause all kinds of electrical issues. I changed the engine oil not because the shipped oil is junk oil or anything like that but I'm sure that the oil has been in the engine sitting there for several months and it's not a sealed system so moisture and contaminants can work there way inside. So I put in some fresh Rotella T4 15w40. Valve adjustment: Super simple to do, remove 3 bolts in valve cover and pull cover off, mine came off on the exhaust pipe side easier oddly enough. Remove the big plug on top side of left engine cover, and remove spark plug. Turn engine over with the kick starter slowly and watch the valve movements and when you see the intake valve open and close look in the hole where the big plug was and align the T line to the housing. Verify that piston is at top of the stroke by looking into the spark plug hole. Time to check adjustment. My intake was at .002 and exhaust was at least .001 or less. I set the intake to .004 and the exhaust to .005. Okay time to start it, filled with gas, set the choke to half choke and hit the starter button and it fired right up! :clap The bike ran and revved great with no hesitations at all. The thing that surprised me was how smooth it was and very little to none on vibrations. Also I was kinda expecting the transmission to feel a little notchy or stiff until it broke in but really it shifted very nice and pretty smooth as well. Everything worked as it should with no problems at all, lights all worked, speedo, tach, gas gauge, shift indicator all worked great. The only real thing was burning off the oils and paint on the exhaust, man that thing was smoking. But it got better over time, although I didn't spend a lot of time riding it yet. I definitely will be deleting the catalytic convertor sometime soon, probably after the engine warranty expires. I'm not as worried about the obstruction that it causes as I am about the heat it is putting to the cylinder as it sits right next to it. That can't be good on it and will probably cause premature engine problems at least IMHO. It is a whole different world coming off of a 100hp and probably close to 700 lb bike to this but its lightweight and fun to throw around. It definitely won't be winning any races but that's not what I bought it for anyway. So far so good and I do like it. I will review the bike when I put several hundred miles on it.
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