BD125-15 Vader gen 1 chain tension question

[sirmaxwell]

How do I tension my chain?

The factory worker made it very tight. Do I loosen the rear axle first?
then do I tighten or loosen the double nut chain tensioners on each side?

As always any help is much appreciated!

[imapdog]

i would give it a couple easy laps to see if it stretches into correct fit. these chains will stretch in first 10 miles or so. i am assuming it s new

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by imapdog

i would give it a couple easy laps to see if it stretches into correct fit. these chains will stretch in first 10 miles or so. i am assuming it s new

what oil would you reccomend? ANy particular brand? WHat weight? Syn or natural or Blend?? Any special clutch additives listed on the oil or to add seperately? Any API or oter oil certifications to look for. Thanks!

[RedCrowRides]

If the chain is too tight, loosen the axle nut, then loosen BOTH sides of the chain tensioners. Then hit the tire forward with your hand or use a rubber mallet, to get about the corrwect tension you want.Then , tighten the chain tensioners back down, each side a little, then other side, etc while keeping the middle of the tire sighted straight ,you dont want to tighten one side more than the other and cause the tire to be cocked to one side or the other.If you notice your brake caliper dragging, it's off to one side too much. Once you get the tension right, and the tire is aligned straight, tighten the locknuts on the tensioners, and then tighten your axle nut down .

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by RedCrowRides

If the chain is too tight, loosen the axle nut, then loosen BOTH sides of the chain tensioners. Then hit the tire forward with your hand or use a rubber mallet, to get about the corrwect tension you want.Then , tighten the chain tensioners back down, each side a little, then other side, etc while keeping the middle of the tire sighted straight ,you dont want to tighten one side more than the other and cause the tire to be cocked to one side or the other.If you notice your brake caliper dragging, it's off to one side too much. Once you get the tension right, and the tire is aligned straight, tighten the locknuts on the tensioners, and then tighten your axle nut down .

Thanks for replies.

Also I have not yet put on chain guard and late last nite when I finished assembling it in the dark I noticed the bottom part of chain hits the frame/swingarm. The manufacturer bolted rubber on the metal there probably im guessing because they expect the chain to hit there so the chain hopefully wont damage it badly..but it doesnt seem good!. is this normal? should i purchase a chain tensioner sprocket and maybe get a longer chain that can go up away from the swing arm and over a new tensioner so it doesnt hit??

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by RedCrowRides

In .

Thanks for your Help RedCrowRides AND everyone else who I am quoting and repeating myself in hopes of more likely getting multiple answers.

what oil would you reccomend? ANy particular brand? WHat weight? Syn or natural or Blend?? Any special clutch additives listed on the oil or to add seperately? Any API or oter oil certifications to look for.

Also should I use same oil from the first oil change during break in until the bike hits the scrapyard (or I die, whichever comes 1st!) Or should I use one oil for break in then switch to another??? I started with 10W-40 Mobil 4T Full Synthetic (4sTroke) Racing Motorcycle oil with the best/newest API oil certification I could find for my first and only oil change I have done when I got the bike before I ever started it and it now has 13 miles/3.5 or so hrs on it with a lot of idling to charge battery since I heard of battery issues plus idle it to break it in...The oil still looks new at a quick glance at the dipstick--BUT I plan on changing it maybe in another 10 miles or couple hrs of running if I idle it--just to get out ny metal shavings that I am assuming are worst or pretty bad the 1st oil change

Thanks!!!

[RedCrowRides]

Thats normal for it to touch there when your weight is not on it - when you sit on the bike, the chain gets tighter and "should" pull it up off that contact area.



That said, i didn't like it either, and i run a motocross bike style spring loaded chain tensioner on my Vader to take some of that slack out / up ,and it also cuts down on chain slap .Here is a link to the one i used https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Chain-T...r=562943156063


It comes in your choice of anodized colors - they can be found on Ebay a bit cheaper than this one ( which is also from Ebay) if you look around some over there.Anyways it works great , i havent had any issues running it at the speeds a Vader will do , not sure i'd run one if i was going 100mph plus, lol.

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by RedCrowRides

Thats normal for it to touch there when your weight is not on it - when you sit on the bike, the chain gets tighter and "should" pull it up off that contact area.



That said, i didn't like it either, and i run a motocross bike style spring loaded chain tensioner on my Vader to take some of that slack out / up ,and it also cuts down on chain slap .Here is a link to the one i used https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Chain-T...r=562943156063


It comes in your choice of anodized colors - they can be found on Ebay a bit cheaper than this one ( which is also from Ebay) if you look around some over there.Anyways it works great , i havent had any issues running it at the speeds a Vader will do , not sure i'd run one if i was going 100mph plus, lol.

Cool. Do you run the tensioner with stock chain or did you need a longer chain or add links to stock chain? If you have a picture of where you bolted it on that would be awesome!

I just put the first 5 miles on the bike tonight and would maybe do more but it's dark and Im still learning so...maybe I will ride again at dawn My Vader has a Chinglish sticker saying don't exceed 50KMH during engine break in period of either 300 kilometers or it says change oil every 300km not sure which

I was also wondering about shift points..? 1st is like from a dead stop just to get to second, then I've been riding 2nd to about 15mph to 3rd--run 3rd to 20-25mph then 4th. Does that sound reasonable at all? Or do you have better numbers to shift at? Im might shift at higher speeds but I am also keeping it under 5,000 rpm for now during break in so far. I also feel like maybe my clutch needs adjustment becuase before I ever started it I shifted it to N fine to roll it off the pallet then I was playing and shifted it to 1st then it had a hard time going back to N but then was fine for awhile....Now every once in awhile it either is in N but doesnt say its in any gear ...OR it sometimes says it's in N but I start to let go of the clutch and it starts to lurch like its in gear so of course I squeeze the clutch again so it wont stall..

But overall Im pretty happy...I hope I can squeeze at least 50-55 mph out of it without tinkering too much so I can go on the fastest roads in town (Not the real interstate highway--they call those with high speed limits Limited Access Highways in CT)

[Whisky]

You did change the oil before starting it right? That shipping oil is crap. It will be hard getting to N but it will get better as you get more miles on it.

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by Whisky

You did change the oil before starting it right? That shipping oil is crap. It will be hard getting to N but it will get better as you get more miles on it.

Yes I sure did change the oil to Mobil Motorcycle 4T full synthetic 10W-40 &I think it says racing and maybe mobil 1 on it. I was looking at the API and other certifications at Walmart--which only had a few 4 stroke motorcycle oils--and the one I picked was the most up to date best certification they had--from what I could tell since i don't know anyuthing but what I can google on oils other than the decent knowledge I have about oils being synthetic or not and viscosity weights..

I had to take the two exhaust nuts off the engine so I could wiggle the exhaust several MMs out the way in order to get the oil drain off. At first I was second guessing whether I had the right bolt pegged as the oil drain since it was impossible to get off with the exhaust blocking it before I loosened the exhaust! and the oil hits the exhaust a little when I drain it too..but oh well it isn't too hard and it works.

I hope the shifting does get better and hopefully my skills will get better too lol I also heard the bike performs better after time. I remember someone complaining that their bike shook a lot and someone else said their Vader is really smooth under the same conditions then they told them how to fix it...but I can't remember how if it was like idle air/fuel or jetting or oil or what. mine vibrates a bit on the rear fender but isnt too bad

What are your thoughts Whisky on what rpm/speed should riders be shifting gears on thier Vader?

[Whisky]

I usually shifted between 5 and 7 rpm, I'm not into speed, I just Cruz around, easy going, no rush and yes I do have a 190cc waiting to go in but not for speed. I personally wouldn't be running straight synthetic oil for break in period, that's just me, maybe it doesn't matter. My bike vibrates too but not as much as it did but I also have changed some of the China parts out. The bike is going to be feeding from your wallet for mods, wait and see.

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by Whisky

The bike is going to be feeding from your wallet for mods, wait and see.

Yeah....I can see that in my future...even frequent oil changes can add up.

I only have like 5 miles on mine and already want flush mount blinkers because the factory ones are begging to be broken and the only damage mine shipped with was one front blinker had the rubber spacer ripped so I taped it but that tape didnt hold to rubber well so it's hanging...4 now.
Plus I want some kind of trunk/saddlebags. I see nice looking ones ranging from $20 for nylon saddlebags or plastic trunk boxes to $50 for really nice leather or canvas ones doing a quick search on Amazon. of course there are way more expensive options but realistically I wouldn't even consider paying more than $10--$50 for storage and maybe i will even use whatever I have in my house. I just dont want to use an ugly milk crate but it would work...
Also I really want the bar end mirrors..I think. I just dont like the ones that go straight upwards from the handlebars from my experience with scooters that have the same mirrors style as the factory Vader

I might look into motorcycle oil more and see if there is a different kind with a better clutch additive. This was the first time I have ever had to change motorcycle oil so I really don't know what's best and I have read in the past there are many different certifications the American Petroleum Institute gives oil so it can be a lot to remember or think about

I don't care much about speed either. I am riding because I like being on 2 wheels in good weather. But I guess i do care to the extent I need to be able to go the speed limit and there are many 35-40mph roads in my town and even one stretch of 45mph speed limit.
I was more asking about shift points as far as what is good for making the bike last and not abusing it. I have shifted a little below 5k RPM every time so far

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by Whisky

I personally wouldn't be running straight synthetic oil for break in period, that's just me, maybe it doesn't matter. My bike vibrates too but not as much as it did but I also have changed some of the China parts out. .

What oil do you reccomend? I appreciate if you have a brand but more important is the weight & syn or non syn and any specific API or other oil institution certifications plus if it has any additives that it mentions on the label. I feel the brand is a little less important than the info when reccomending just becuz I might not be able to get the same oil in my small town in CT as you do wherever you are.
I ran my bike for almost 2 hrs today, idling a mostly plus about 8 miles here and there between idling in my driveway with one 3-4 mile unbroken ride at the end and I hope that wasnt too long to run it for during break in. The bike now has 13 miles and maybe 3-4 hrs tops on it. It idled fine after initial start--it seems at least a little lean with fairly low level and intermittent popping if I rev it to 5k rpms then quickly drop it to idle plus it doesnt seem too smooth in gears at low-mid rpms--which might be the gearing or might be partially idle or part break in period also. Maybe part my sh*tty shifting Im working on!! At the end of my ride it stalled when I was going maybe 25,in 4th after slowing down and had just pulled the clutch in to initiate downshift when it stalled. That has happened to me once in awhile rarely maybe if i shift bad or dont downshift at correct speed/rpm although I thought it shouldnt stall in any gear at any speed while squeezing clutch all the way in?? but this time it kept happening and I had a little trouble getting to true N to restart-- it kept saying N then bucking if I let go of clutch to get off the bike while idling. Then it finally got to N and I noticed it was not idling good as it had been the last 2 hrs and it stalled a couple times + I smelled a little burning smell so I called it as soon as I smelled that and didnt restart again. Im hoping i didnt overheat the clutch or engine at all by running it 2 hrs straight including the 4 miles at the end was up a quarter mile road, turn around go thru all the gears up then some downshifting then repeat 16 times. I got the bike up to almost 6k rpms today up from 5k last time and around 35mph+ but less than 40 on speedo...

Is all what I described terrible for break in period? My idea was if I idle it for half of the time the first couple oil changes it will be an ok low rpm break in plus I can go work or do other things while the bike is idling/breaking itself in some.

As always any answers would be greatly appreciated because while i have some knowledge of various things, this is my first brand new motorcycle and I haven't owned a real motorcycle before, only used China scooters and briefly a couple used Jap dirtbikes....SO as far as what to expect and any tricks of the trade specific to motorcycles and especially the Vader I have I am pretty much a mildly mechanically inclined NOOB--although I don't like to admit it!!lol BUT I am working on not being a NOOB after this year in my defense

[Whisky]

Surprisingly I still have the factory turn signals I do have flush mount ones and the integrated turn signal tail light waiting to go on. The mirrors your right got to go. Protaper bars are a huuge improvement as are better tires. V rubber tires that come with most clones are dangerous so be careful if you have those. These are a few items I replaced right away. Now I really don't even pay attention to shift rpm or the speedometer, I just go with the flow. Speed limits around here where I ride are 35- 55

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by Whisky

Surprisingly I still have the factory turn signals I do have flush mount ones and the integrated turn signal tail light waiting to go on. The mirrors your right got to go. Protaper bars are a huuge improvement as are better tires. V rubber tires that come with most clones are dangerous so be careful if you have those. These are a few items I replaced right away. Now I really don't even pay attention to shift rpm or the speedometer, I just go with the flow. Speed limits around here where I ride are 35- 55

I would eventually like the integrated tail light/turn signal/rear fender eliminator but for now it's ok as long as I dont accidentaly kick the rear signals off when mounting the bike!

I always wondered about Pro-Taper bars. I know they look cool and they have a padded level higher I am guessing to protect you in an accident. I am not too sure if there is another reason they are better bars than stock?

I have stock tires on but I have a spare 12" scooter tire I bought last year link:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008PGL69K...d_i=B008PGL69K and I may check it out to see if it has better tread or save it as a spare but I don't think its a great tire either although maybe ok for good weather not riding fast or cornering hard. I want something like these Pirelli with beefy treads https://www.bikebandit.com/tires-tub...2260&rrec=true.

I don't know what V rubber tire means exactly but I'm guessing it is dangerous in any kind of bad weather or sudden braking situation. I had tires like the stock Vader ones on my scooter last year and wiped out twice going maybe 10MPH or less with wet pavement because I got worried about nearby cars pulling out in front of me. One time the ground was damp and I used both brakes but hard so my rear locked and I slid, fell down spilling gas all over myself. One of the sad parts was I was still 15 feet away from the car even after skidding a little and falling. I guess it happened due to inexperience and I had just hit the gas hard from a stop, saw the car pulling into my path and jammed on my rear brake that I had just tightened before that ride.. but that was very early into my riding experience and I wasnt hurt badly, the worst was the gasoline got on my pants, boxers and started hurting on the ride home lol I thought I was just experiencing delayed soreness at first. Boy did that burn!!!